Question about feather edge boarding...?

[The Z'eer]

Decided on feather edge to clad the exterior of the sheds. Firstly (and this maybe relevant to the second question) I've noticed that the depth of the boarding varies 4", 5" and 6" is available. Which is most suitable?

Secondly, I intend to affix the boarding with screws, and I'd like the screws to remain hidden via the overlap of the board. However I have seen that some are fixing their boarding via the thicker edge, making the fixings visible. If I wish to attach the boarding via the thinner edge, is a deeper depth of boarding required such as 6"?

Thirdly, how much overlap should I employ per board?

The first shed I'm tackling is 6ft x 4ft if that's relevant to these questions.

Thanks

 

[Ashley Burton]

My local merchant supply 150mm or 6"

The wider the boards the less you need!

Unless you pre drill every fixing then you will get the boards splitting unfortunately. The boards might vary from Merchant to Merchant, But generally you don’t get them thicker than around 5mm on the thinner edge from my experience

In regards to overlap it all depends on how bothered you are! I think I used 15mm when I last used some. There probably is an advised minimum somewhere!

Hope that helps

 

[Wildefalcon]

I used a six inch feather edge larch, cut for me by a local timber yard, on my workshop. I overlapped them by one inch. The thin edge was up to 8mm; the sawmill didn't like doing "flimsy stuff".

I attached them with stainless screws, and predrilled them all, mainly as I was cladding over flat galv sheets.

No distortion, no splitting and still look great a couple of years later.

W.

 

[rtbcomp]

I used ordinary Wickes ones, nailed through the thicker edge with lost-head nails.

 

[angellonewolf]

from memory an inch as about right for the overlap the more over lap the stronger is it but more wood is used

also the less you use in the over lap the more chance of spliting

 

[The Z'eer]

My local merchant supply 150mm or 6"

The wider the boards the less you need!

Unless you pre drill every fixing then you will get the boards splitting unfortunately. The boards might vary from Merchant to Merchant, But generally you don’t get them thicker than around 5mm on the thinner edge from my experience

In regards to overlap it all depends on how bothered you are! I think I used 15mm when I last used some. There probably is an advised minimum somewhere!

Hope that helps

Thanks for the advice there. I'll pre drill 'em then, the last thing I want is for it to split. Thanks for the info regarding the merchant to merchant thickness of the boarding.

 

[The Z'eer]

I used a six inch feather edge larch, cut for me by a local timber yard, on my workshop. I overlapped them by one inch. The thin edge was up to 8mm; the sawmill didn't like doing "flimsy stuff".

I attached them with stainless screws, and predrilled them all, mainly as I was cladding over flat galv sheets.

No distortion, no splitting and still look great a couple of years later.View attachment 128754 View attachment 128755

W.

That's a fine looking structure there

...and thanks for mentioning about the use of stainless steel screws, I'll add them to the list.

 

[The Z'eer]

from memory an inch as about right for the overlap the more over lap the stronger is it but more wood is used

also the less you use in the over lap the more chance of spliting

Ok, then I'll use more overlap as the intention is to hide the fixing screws. Maybe a little more than 1 inch will suffice for a definite preventative measure.

 

[frank horton]

also remember that st/steel wood screws are quite soft........if u need to remove 1 to adjust a board quite often they'll snap.......
I have used the geen coated hard wood screw's........green means extra rust proofing above yellow passivate quality and can be used in a salty envoiroment but NOT in direct contact with salt water......
green coated screws are used in the fixing of wood decking.......??????????....Frank

 

[addjunkie]

Make yourself an overlap fixing gauge or two if your using a helper, makes setting board equal spaces a doddle, I used a plasmode.....nails in stainless were bloomin expensive

 

[armalites]

also remember that st/steel wood screws are quite soft........if u need to remove 1 to adjust a board quite often they'll snap.......

I found this too especially with the ones that have ribs in the thread. I've been using Reisser Retinox recently and you can take in and out with no issues, only downside is they do cost a bit.

 

[The Z'eer]

Almost any board will want to cup as it ages - depends where it came from in relation to the centre of the tree.

Fixing on the thin edge (hidden) could lead to the Venetian blind effect after a while...

Also you want the boards to be able to slide under each other as they contract and expand with changing moisture levels. They only really do this across the grain, not so much along.

That also means you only want one row of fixings - don't put two screws in each board in each post, and don't put the screw through two boards.

Going by this info https://www.vastern.co.uk/cladding/feather-edge-cladding/ it appears winter is a good time to apply the boarding.

Thanks for the tip regarding usage of screws. I think I'll go for the green items as mentioned

 

[The Z'eer]

Make yourself an overlap fixing gauge or two if your using a helper, makes setting board equal spaces a doddle, I used a plasmode.....nails in stainless were bloomin expensive

That's a good idea, I've seen one of those in a YouTube video. I'll be sure to make one up, thanks.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Personally id be using a nailgun too Quicker easier and allows the boards to move a little.

Spacers are a must to make life easier. bang a couple of nails or screws through it just proud of the face stops them slipping around when holding in place.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

If the boards were bone dry id concur its not an issue if they haven't dried out too much, just be sensible when near a board edge.

 

[addjunkie]

A huge factor here is board size and quality.

Cheap nasty 4"x3/8 itll be awful, 6 inch by 11/4 inch....will be a good substansial shed.

 

[The Z'eer]

A huge factor here is board size and quality.

Cheap nasty 4"x3/8 itll be awful, 6 inch by 11/4 inch....will be a good substansial shed.

It is the 150 mm in width by 22 mm in thickness that I'm looking at. I would prefer the larger 200 mm boards, but the overall cost is racking up.

 

[The Z'eer]

I'd only use a nailgun on a fence where a bit of a split here and there isn't going to notice or matter.

For a shed wall (or a posher fence) I'd always pilot drill and screw.

Just don't distort the boards by doing up the screws too hard and they'll still slide.

It takes much longer, but it's a simply better job (and as a bonus it's far easier to replace a board if some numpty shoves something into it).

Using nails wouldn't be an option due to potentially dismantling and placing the shed elsewhere in years to come. I much prefer using screws in various applications, as you say it's far more maintenance friendly.

I'll leave em reasonably loose to allow for expansion/contraction.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Using nails wouldn't be an option due to potentially dismantling and placing the shed elsewhere in years to come. I much prefer using screws in various applications, as you say it's far more maintenance friendly.

I'll leave em reasonably loose to allow for expansion/contraction.

Make the shed in panels pre clad/finished then erect.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

If you can see that pic, there's even a mug for scale

Bet it doesn't look that spacious anymore. Nice job mate.