They are very handy for that alright. Doesn't look like you've coolant running there? Same as, i must sort it someday, it's down the list though.
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They are very handy for that alright. Doesn't look like you've coolant running there? Same as, i must sort it someday, it's down the list though.
I have indeed, chain driven I think just the whole saw needs a good clean up to get it working.
Fazerruss
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There was no pump on mine when I got it but I don't think that's a bad thing. I still haven't replaced the blade yet and its still going strong.
After every cut I get a nice clean dry pile of swarf on the bed. Compare this to my brothers Qualters n Smith running with coolant always has a pile of milky sh1te. I prefer giving it a squirt with the oil can at the start of a cut.
After every cut I get a nice clean dry pile of swarf on the bed. Compare this to my brothers Qualters n Smith running with coolant always has a pile of milky sh1te. I prefer giving it a squirt with the oil can at the start of a cut.
MattF
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Even if it needs attention, there's not much to them, so it should be an easy fix.
MattF
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I'm not a fan of coolant either. Just goes against the grain to have water based fluid welling about on metal.
Brush and bottle with me. 
brewdexta
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I'm a suds man myself however I'm not sure I would feed it to the kids in a jug like this woman seems to be doing 
MattF
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I'm a suds man myself however I'm not sure I would feed it to the kids in a jug like this woman seems to be doing
Definitely seems like one of those advertising choices which wasn't properly thought through. 
Fazerruss
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I've done all my cutting on it with the blade nipped up tight and it cuts superbly.
In the pics is 4 inch diameter hydraulic ram i'm cutting the thread off and as you can see by the threads its millimetre perfect.
I've got it spinning in the lathe now and the cut face is dead true. All I did is drill a centre.
In the pics is 4 inch diameter hydraulic ram i'm cutting the thread off and as you can see by the threads its millimetre perfect.
I've got it spinning in the lathe now and the cut face is dead true. All I did is drill a centre.
MattF
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Cheers. 
That's sweet. You definitely couldn't ask for better performance than that. Can't wait for the day I finally get around to getting mine up and running, though I do need to sort at least one of the larger lathes out before I can finish the saw. It's a vicious cycle.
That's sweet. You definitely couldn't ask for better performance than that. Can't wait for the day I finally get around to getting mine up and running, though I do need to sort at least one of the larger lathes out before I can finish the saw. It's a vicious cycle.
MattF
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It seems some of us just never learn. My attempt at making space a while ago by only keeping the large saw has been sidetracked. I got that Minor I was asking about a week or two ago. I will learn not to do those token Ebay bids. Anyhows, numbnuts here went and cracked the bed whilst removing the driveshaft. It seems that the taper fit was a damned sight stronger than the bed, (no hammers were involved in the incident, might I just add. I was using best methods and applying a slow pressure increase with a screw jack type affair between the uprights to try and crack the taper seal), and it seems that the bed was either stressed, else that a hole drilled in the rear of the bed in the past had introduced a weak spot. The sound of cast iron cracking is not an appealing one. This was the damage.
The hole on the right is one I drilled to stop the crack progressing. Was in two minds whether to just leave well alone and see how it fared over time, else whether to plate. Decided to plate with some thin plate on the rear, but leave the horizontal flat unplated, as the leg braces that part once bolted on, and a plate would only have acted like a crud trap in there. Only time will tell whether this is a wise move or not. The plate I used is around 2.5mm. Could have gone with 4mm, but I went with the thinner plate so that the screws would pull it to the shape of the bed. That probably wouldn't have worked on the thicker plate. The repair plate.
Drilled the tapping size holes in the plate and used that as a template for marking the bed, then drilled the holes out to clearance size.
Bed drilled and tapped.
Plate fitted.
I got that Minor I was asking about a week or two ago. I will learn not to do those token Ebay bids. Anyhows, numbnuts here went and cracked the bed whilst removing the driveshaft. It seems that the taper fit was a damned sight stronger than the bed, (no hammers were involved in the incident, might I just add. I was using best methods and applying a slow pressure increase with a screw jack type affair between the uprights to try and crack the taper seal), and it seems that the bed was either stressed, else that a hole drilled in the rear of the bed in the past had introduced a weak spot. The sound of cast iron cracking is not an appealing one. This was the damage.
The hole on the right is one I drilled to stop the crack progressing. Was in two minds whether to just leave well alone and see how it fared over time, else whether to plate. Decided to plate with some thin plate on the rear, but leave the horizontal flat unplated, as the leg braces that part once bolted on, and a plate would only have acted like a crud trap in there. Only time will tell whether this is a wise move or not. The plate I used is around 2.5mm. Could have gone with 4mm, but I went with the thinner plate so that the screws would pull it to the shape of the bed. That probably wouldn't have worked on the thicker plate. The repair plate.
Drilled the tapping size holes in the plate and used that as a template for marking the bed, then drilled the holes out to clearance size.
Bed drilled and tapped.
Plate fitted.
brewdexta
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I have spare bed if you need one. I was given a spares or repair by a mate who owns a stone quarry and he dropped it off a pallet while moving it so it became spares only. The arm and one pair of legs broke so instead of 20 quid i got it for nowt. Ive sold the remaining legs and vice but the rest is there if you need some bits.It seems some of us just never learn. My attempt at making space a while ago by only keeping the large saw has been sidetracked.
The hole on the right is one I drilled to stop the crack progressing. Was in two minds whether to just leave well alone and see how it fared over time, else whether to plate. Decided to plate with some thin plate on the rear, but leave the horizontal flat unplated, as the leg braces that part once bolted on, and a plate would only have acted like a crud trap in there. Only time will tell whether this is a wise move or not. The plate I used is around 2.5mm. Could have gone with 4mm, but I went with the thinner plate so that the screws would pull it to the shape of the bed. That probably wouldn't have worked on the thicker plate. The repair plate.
Drilled the tapping size holes in the plate and used that as a template for marking the bed, then drilled the holes out to clearance size.
Bed drilled and tapped.
Plate fitted.
Regards
Andy
brewdexta
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Hi Matt
From memory its complete but was only partially covered by a tarp on a quarry adjacent to the Pennine way for at least a couple of years however the usual Rapidior grime layer has helped a little.
The fly wheel is smaller than my other minor, it has a geared motor which I think may come in handy at some point.
I shall post a couple of pics of the remains in a week or so.
Cheers
Andy
From memory its complete but was only partially covered by a tarp on a quarry adjacent to the Pennine way for at least a couple of years however the usual Rapidior grime layer has helped a little.
The fly wheel is smaller than my other minor, it has a geared motor which I think may come in handy at some point.
I shall post a couple of pics of the remains in a week or so.
Cheers
Andy
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Rust ain't a problem for me.
Cheers.
For the time being, I've removed its reliance on the dog clutch parts and locked the flywheel. I can honestly say that it's a cow of a job trying to drill a hole in the collar of a flywheel. Ended up having to use my smallest hand drill as it was the only one which didn't foul the rim too much when aiming for a straight down hole. It took me yonks to get that one hole done. I could have been a pussy and just tapped the oil hole, but where's the fun in doing that? Besides, the oil point is drilled at an angle, so it wouldn't have been the best choice for the task. I don't think it's turned out too bad though.
Obviously a doddle to revert to original too. Whip the grubscrew out and replace the missing clutch piece, (it's that piece which is quite worn on this one, as well as missing the handle), and it's back to original order, barring that one 1/4" hole I've made in the collar.
Cheers.
For the time being, I've removed its reliance on the dog clutch parts and locked the flywheel. I can honestly say that it's a cow of a job trying to drill a hole in the collar of a flywheel.
Ended up having to use my smallest hand drill as it was the only one which didn't foul the rim too much when aiming for a straight down hole. It took me yonks to get that one hole done. I could have been a pussy and just tapped the oil hole, but where's the fun in doing that? Besides, the oil point is drilled at an angle, so it wouldn't have been the best choice for the task. I don't think it's turned out too bad though.
Obviously a doddle to revert to original too. Whip the grubscrew out and replace the missing clutch piece, (it's that piece which is quite worn on this one, as well as missing the handle), and it's back to original order, barring that one 1/4" hole I've made in the collar.
MattF
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Decided where to put this today, save me having to work around it in the middle of the floor. So, more bench shimmying required to make it fit. Got just shy of 3' to the right of it, so should be plenty for owt I might need to cut with it.
This one is growing on me. It's rough as sin condition wise with regards to wear, with both the vice bed quite worn and the slides somewhat worn, and the leadscrew and nut have been stripped out and replaced with standard threaded rod and a nut welded on the jaw, but I think it looks quite charming as is, this one. I've completely resisted any temptation to tart it up in any way or form. It's just been getting a coating of Linseed oil on most bits for a bit of additional protection. Now she's not in the way I can concentrate on getting the finishing touches done. Replacement motor, sorting some alternative mounting arrangement for the intermediate drive pulley, making new shims for the slide cover etc.
Got just shy of 3' to the right of it, so should be plenty for owt I might need to cut with it.
This one is growing on me. It's rough as sin condition wise with regards to wear, with both the vice bed quite worn and the slides somewhat worn, and the leadscrew and nut have been stripped out and replaced with standard threaded rod and a nut welded on the jaw, but I think it looks quite charming as is, this one. I've completely resisted any temptation to tart it up in any way or form. It's just been getting a coating of Linseed oil on most bits for a bit of additional protection. Now she's not in the way I can concentrate on getting the finishing touches done. Replacement motor, sorting some alternative mounting arrangement for the intermediate drive pulley, making new shims for the slide cover etc.
MattF
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New disc made for the bottom of the damper, along with a replacement screw and spring fitted. The old disc is to the left. It had seen better days. There was no spring fitted when it came, and several washers had been put in the bottom of the cylinder to stop the bow descending too far, so all of those had taken their toll on it. I used that particular screw as that was buried within the pile of sawdust and swarf in the bed when it came here.
Made a new tool shelf for it yesterday too. Cut it from an old wooden shelf, stripped all of the gloss off with a caustic solution and then lathered it with several coats of Linseed oil.
Did the final shaping and profiling/rounding of the long edges with a little hand planer.
Made a new tool shelf for it yesterday too. Cut it from an old wooden shelf, stripped all of the gloss off with a caustic solution and then lathered it with several coats of Linseed oil.
Did the final shaping and profiling/rounding of the long edges with a little hand planer.
