rdg tools tip failure

[squazy84]

thanks lads ill look it up but it looks like the bin for this lot.

 

[squazy84]

the mini should still get you there, i would be within my rights to expect the wheel not to fall off the mini in the first week of ownership. if its not serviceable it should not be sold.

 

[mike os]

Are you using intermittent coolant?

 

[squazy84]

wd40 on the aluminum on steel I tend to brush a coat of engine oil all over the shaft, i did no steel parting

 

[squazy84]

the threading tip broke off first touch, in certain that tip was faulty,it was not a hard cut and the hss handled way more of the same without even sharpening. my mind is pretty clear on the matter.

 

[Spark plug]

I have a RDG parting tool and have parted 100mm EN8 without probloems and I parted 20 pices of 30mm EN3b the other week without and the tip is still in and in use.

You need loads of coolant, if your wondering if your using enough coolant add more till you know it's enough.

And your feed needs to be constant, I.e. I prefer using the power feed when parting with an indexable tool.

 

[squazy84]

powered feed not possible unless I modify the lathe, ill stick with hss for my parting in any case,3mm wide cutting blade is too much for such a small lathe imo

 

[hareng]

A few months ago I bought an 8mm shanked turning tool set from the above supplier and ive been using them carefully on my toy lathe (myford ml 10

thread cutting tools broke immediately and in each case I was able to continue on without failure using the same speeds/feeds ect with hss tools, im a careful worker and im not used to breaking tools.

Three problems the ML10 flex, tool flex and dire tips.
Having had an ML7 23 years ago faced same trouble, stick with decent HSS or be selective in purchasing decent tools and tips from the likes of Kennametal, Manchester, Ceratizit, Arno, Iscar, Seco and the like. Gave all the Sandvik stuff away.

Know exactly what you mean I have a set I never use but have tried on my old Harrison 140 15 yrs ago. V tool wont call it threader can visually see it flexing with what I regard as a finishing cut and dare say is whats happened on yours and broke the tip.

Part off may be ok NCIH? have two 32mm Arno and Iscar 3mm thick parted 5"+ diameter cast, 6082 and steels with little problem. Just get some decent tips think 2.2mm wide will fit whether left, neutral or right hand cutting. I turn with 3 out of the 8 part offs and leave gorgeous finish on high quality expensive items. Parting 6082 will be problematic, 3 secs warning then wham, so be quick. Its the debris lodging down the clearance angle or binding to tool which happens with and without coolant, steels dead easy straight in.
ML7 had no joy with any part off except hand ground decent cobalt HSS not the chinese rubbish.

 

[Gritineye]

Have to agree with hareng, Stick with HSS on a light lathe, those indexables need coolant, higher speeds and a rigid machine to work well, and weren't around when Myfords where designed.

It took me a long time to get my Atlas 10f (a lathe that's not known for it's rigidity) adjusted and set up speed and feed properly but I can now part under power, something of a milestone in my learning curve which took some nerve to try the first time!

After much negativity towards lighter lathes on other forums about how hard parting is and the impossibility of power parting on hobby sized machines, I made a vid to show it could be done if the setup is right. HSS is all I use and never coolant which isn't needed for one off jobs in hobby use in my opinion.

The most important thing to remember is if it starts to chatter be brave enough to push the tool in harder, backing off doesn't help and often spoils the tip.

 

[T0rnado69]

can you not return them to RDG as not fit for purpose..

i recently changed from brazed tip tools to inserts.
and was recommend by someone to glanze tooling.

not cheap but nothing that's good is...
i decided to buy the holders singley, only to get ones i would use.
as buying a box set had a few i wouldnt use.
plus the boxset had the standard boring bar in it.
and i fancied the through coolant boring bar instead.

but since ive had them ive found they are so much better then what i was using.
and if needed i can turn the insert tip around or change it.
and im back cutting again.
not having to run brazed tip cutters to a sharpening place on a week turn around.
will save me in the long run.

 

[Flathead_Dave]

In the video,the chips are small and curly,so the feed/speed is spot on.
The HSS part off tool is deeper than an insert,so more rigid,it's the depth not the width that gives rigidity.
The most important clue is the tool leaves no pip.
A used Myford will have some wear,so though the tip may be on center when static,it's going below center when loaded up.
It would be interesting to set a clock up to measure deflection when you're parting off.

 

[Gritineye]

In the video,the chips are small and curly,so the feed/speed is spot on.

That's right Dave, but the chips can be seen changing as the tool advances into the work piece, because power feeding at a constant rate is a compromise.

When hand feeding the skill with lager pieces (that still eludes me) is to set the right spindle speed for halfway through, then vary the feed rate to achieve a constant curly chip as the circumference of the workpiece reduces towards the centre.

No none should be discouraged, I reckon it's unlikely that any hobby machinist beavering away on one off jobs using a wide range of metals will achieve this marvelous skill without a few tip breakages or much worse!

 

[RichardM]

HSS will give a better finish on aluminium, WD40 is a good cutting fluid so is Parrafin. IMHO ML10 is a good little lathe, small footprint, ideal for hobby use and capable of good accuracy. Not an industrial machine but you don't need rollers or FLT to move it.

I only have one indexable tool with two tips formy Boxford, both are for turning case hardened motorbike sprockets, they cut the case hardened bits beautifully, but when into the softer non-hardened steel rip it up.