Doesn't that say a lot though? as a Yorkshireman I've been accused of knowing the cost of everything and the value of nothing - I'd argue it's the other way round - buy cheap, buy twice. Yer Fluke are expensive but they have a reputation to uphold, that costs. I've never had to replace a Fluke because it was no longer accurate or trustworthy. The 'I only use it now and again' argument is meaningless, either you want to indicate or measure something with a degree of trust and accuracy or you don't. If you do, then get something up to the job - repeatedly and with a good, trustworthy heritage. If you don't, well, keep licking the end of the batteries and wires....I still have my old BT Fluke somewhere.
I didn't say it still worked thoughDoesn't that say a lot though? as a Yorkshireman I've been accused of knowing the cost of everything and the value of nothing - I'd argue it's the other way round - buy cheap, buy twice. Yer Fluke are expensive but they have a reputation to uphold, that costs. I've never had to replace a Fluke because it was no longer accurate or trustworthy. The 'I only use it now and again' argument is meaningless, either you want to indicate or measure something with a degree of trust and accuracy or you don't. If you do, then get something up to the job - repeatedly and with a good, trustworthy heritage. If you don't, well, keep licking the end of the batteries and wires.
A voltage indicator & proving unit are a basic requirement for working on any kind of controlled SSW installation, a lot of 'older' vehicles with common rail diesel engines will have lethal voltages at the injectors and sometimes the headlights, it's just not safe to use a flaky multimeter or shonky leads any more.You are going to get alot of fluke answers, market leaders, people get told the name, so people say the name, but they will not be the only good meters out there.
Judging on a 40year old gunson you probably do not need something too expensive.
Meters that I have come across being fluke, megger, klein, ethos, mainly in trained persons toolkits. Maybe more but I did not immediately recognise the branding or remember it!
Plenty of guys working on old vehicles using draper meters.
I have a cheaper multimeter, known brand, but also a decent voltage tester and use a proving unit.
I had a nice fluke multimeter but battery leakage killed it, I am on cheap ones now with leakproof batteries.
Bob
there is its a ball ache swapping the leads around for ohms, voltage and amps, I do not need to do this with my other meters! Plus I forget often!Nowt wrong with a Lidl multimeter.
I have gone through a few "draper grade" multimeters in the past. One, I think from Screwfix popped dramatically in front of me when measuring 400V DC. I was already plenty nervous as you might imagine. Very nearly new underwear time.
After that I bought the lowest spec (cheapest) fluke I could get. I think it was a "101" model.
That does just about everything and is great to use. There's some old, heavy, square, indestructible analogue thing that gets used in the workshop from time to time and I have a cheapo somewhere that does dwell angle, current and some other 12v specific stuff.
Leaky batteries nearly killed my Fluke 10, wasn't too hard to clean up and get it going again luckily.I had a nice fluke multimeter but battery leakage killed it, I am on cheap ones now with leakproof batteries.
Bob
Dilog are decent for the money.