Record 34 Jaws Screws

[R-D-R]

In an effort to put off my band saw restoration I dug this Record 34 out from under the bench to start on instead. I thought it looked pretty good when i bought it just needing a spruce up. Stripped it and found the jaw screws didn't screw, they were solely held with loctite! The thread on the vice looks intact. Anyone know off hand what thread it is? tried a few I had handy but cant seem to match it.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

5/16 whitworth. On the old ones.
M10 on modern ones.

 

[jenki]

5/16 whitworth I think

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

https://www.namrick.co.uk/

Has them in Stock.

 

[R-D-R]

Thanks chaps I’ll go out and check later sounds like it could be whitworth. Either that or it’s been modified in which case I’ll step it up to the closest metric.

 

[gordon stephenson]

I think the screws on my 50 years plus 36P years old are 5/16" BSF, Deffo a fine thread, And slow taper on the screw heads.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Thanks chaps I’ll go out and check later sounds like it could be whitworth. Either that or it’s been modified in which case I’ll step it up to the closest metric.

Might be UNC. They will be close enough.

Going into the Record casting you will need a course thread.

If going metric M10 standard thread is good enough.
I suggest going as deep as you can with a new tapping.

 

[Screwdriver]

If you are using OEM jaws you need OEM screws. They have a long taper on the original versions, I had to make my own on some restorations. This is precisely why a lot of older vices end up with loose jaws or the wrong jaws or the wrong screws etc. It is also possibly the most valid reason for trying to restore something to original spec and not to modify it or you end up chasing your tail. Because if convert to M10 you might discover there aren't any Record M10 screws that fit your older taper or the right screws won't fit an incorrect jaw etc. You might even find the new jaws won't fit an older Record. The list goes on...

 

[R-D-R]

thanks and noted. I noticed the screws that came out have a long taper. I'll weigh up the options and take care. Wasn't meant to be a full restoration just clean it up mechanically but typically its turning into a bit more effort! body is currently stewing in paint remover and the the rest having been in a bucket under electrolysis

 

[Dieselman 63]

No, they’re not a coarse or whitworth thread, they’re BSF

I think the screws on my 50 years plus 36P years old are 5/16" BSF, Deffo a fine thread, And slow taper on the screw heads.

Yes you’re quite right. The screws on this vice series are unique to the Record vice family and you need to be careful when removing them as replacements are hard to find.

As an aside, that looks like a pre-war 3X Record, and I believe the cast steel products were painted gloss red, not roundel blue. After the war they were made of ductile iron and became blue.

 

[gordon stephenson]

Another thing Record did, Probably to make money on new jaws. The screw holes are not equi-distant from the top and bottom faces, Means if the jaw top edges gets damaged you cant turn then around,

 

[R-D-R]

I had a Record Steel Vice which was my Great Grandads that was Red, it was stolen from me a few years back along with all my other tools :-(

 

[Dieselman 63]

I had a Record Steel Vice which was my Great Grandads that was Red, it was stolen from me a few years back along with all my other tools :-(

B a s t a r d s! I had a strimmer stolen the other week. I hope the motor pull cord snatches through the thief’s hands like it occasionally did to me - nasty machine!

 

[frank horton]

amazin how a simple job becomes a marathon.......!!!!!!!!
my old watermill in France was a millstone....hahaha....
pardon the pun........

 

[R-D-R]

Quick one for the avid vice restorers on here. Any recommendation on filling the scuffs and bumps on a vice casting? I have some 2 pack car filler? Or buff out with a flap disc?

Not looking for perfection but I will twitch when I look at it if I leave it now I’m into a restoration!

I blasted it in the end and polished up the bare surfaces

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Dress the sharp edges back.
I like to see the history on something like that.

But 2 pack car body filler is good enough to fill the dents and dings.

If they look smooth, just a rub with 400 grit will allow the filler to grip.

 

[Dieselman 63]

It’s a metal vice, it’s meant for metalworking. Sod’s law says you’ll be using a cold chisel one day, slip and strike the part with filler on which will crack and look horrible. Lead was originally used to fill holes on castings, peined to shape.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Lead was originally used to fill holes on castings, peined to shape.

Oftern it was flashed in with a blow torch, hammered to seal and dressed back.

Near me is a classic car restoration place. They still do lead body filler and lead filling.

 

[R-D-R]

Thanks I'm not look to make an instagram special but there are some big *****s i would like to hide. I'll just fill those and take off the the sharp edges. All my tools get used i don't put them on show.

i want to get it primed tomorrow.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

i want to get it primed tomorrow.

Why not linseed oil and wax to finish it?