- Thread starter Shedendman
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julieanncharters
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looks very similar one i had given me which had a twin pot instead of a single.
also had 2 cylinders instead of one underneath.
was used to fill aircraft tyres on the run way,
they use to run it up then wheel it out full to the plane,
that was very old as well and still runs.
its a heavy beast
also had 2 cylinders instead of one underneath.
was used to fill aircraft tyres on the run way,
they use to run it up then wheel it out full to the plane,
that was very old as well and still runs.
its a heavy beast
I agree with eddie dont mess about too much with the com, just a bit of a polish with some very fine emery.
The 4 wires need a closer looking at, they might not be live neutral and earth, there are 4 wires there, I suspect that 2 are for the armature and 2 are for the field winding, they bring out all 4 wires like that so that you can easily reverse the direction of the motor.
Looks like all the wires going in have been removed, I think you might want to get the thing looked at by a leccy if you can, you'd be able to get the isnulation checked at the same time.
Edit: I just looked at the pics again, I see that there is a wire link accross the middle two terminals, this looks like the series link from armature to field windings, it looks like you put live and neutral accross the outside two terminals, and the earth to the casing, if you give it a whizz be carefull that might not be the correct wiring.
The 4 wires need a closer looking at, they might not be live neutral and earth, there are 4 wires there, I suspect that 2 are for the armature and 2 are for the field winding, they bring out all 4 wires like that so that you can easily reverse the direction of the motor.
Looks like all the wires going in have been removed, I think you might want to get the thing looked at by a leccy if you can, you'd be able to get the isnulation checked at the same time.
Edit: I just looked at the pics again, I see that there is a wire link accross the middle two terminals, this looks like the series link from armature to field windings, it looks like you put live and neutral accross the outside two terminals, and the earth to the casing, if you give it a whizz be carefull that might not be the correct wiring.
Shedendman
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Cheers guys,all advice taken on board,i'm in the middle of cleaning it up atm and my sparks friend will have a look when he gets the time,meanwhile a few pics of the oil res as you can see its from the same family as the pump, that brass drain tap attatched to the bottle will not budge dont want to damage it so its staying as it is,funny the tap in that postion its on,if it was pointing down(inline) it'll be off,strange i thought the other way round,oh well
The trend with taps and valves now is that if the handle is inline the valve is on and at 90 dergrees to the line then its off.
Years back the trend was to have all the tap handles on a machine to point downwards in the normal running position (whether on or off), the handles were all changed to accomodate this, I think the logic comes from old steam engines.
Be good to see the old thing done up running.
Years back the trend was to have all the tap handles on a machine to point downwards in the normal running position (whether on or off), the handles were all changed to accomodate this, I think the logic comes from old steam engines.
Be good to see the old thing done up running.
Shedendman
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It works (well sort of)
ok new update,after giving it a good clean and minor nursing i got it running,but and a BIG but,theres a problem.
As you see from the photos i did a bit of bandage repairs as i was not happy with what was there.
My sparks didnt turn up to do the tests so i put my mickey mouse meter on it to check the continuity things looked ok there no high readings as such.
So after the clean up it all went back together,wired it up as you see,stood back,switched on and it fired up
Now heres the BUT,it ran for about 20 seconds and i noticed some smoke with that tell tale smell(electrical),switched it off,left it a few mins and tried again,power on started fine ran for a minute or so then tripped the RCD,but saying this,no smoke or smell,done this about 5 times same thing happened,tripped the RCD.
1st question.................Why?
2nd question............... bin it weight it in for scrap?
3rd question...........play about with this project or sit with a boring relative over xmas?
JUST LIKE TO ADD,DO NOT TAKE THIS AS A HOW TO FIX GUIDE,I DID THIS MYSELF AND WILL TAKE NO RESPONSIBILLTY IF YOU FOLLOW THESE WAYS AND END UP AS DUST,IF YOUR NOT SURE,DONT DO IT
ELECTRICKY KILLS
regards
ok new update,after giving it a good clean and minor nursing i got it running,but and a BIG but,theres a problem.
As you see from the photos i did a bit of bandage repairs as i was not happy with what was there.
My sparks didnt turn up to do the tests so i put my mickey mouse meter on it to check the continuity things looked ok there no high readings as such.
So after the clean up it all went back together,wired it up as you see,stood back,switched on and it fired up
Now heres the BUT,it ran for about 20 seconds and i noticed some smoke with that tell tale smell(electrical),switched it off,left it a few mins and tried again,power on started fine ran for a minute or so then tripped the RCD,but saying this,no smoke or smell,done this about 5 times same thing happened,tripped the RCD.
1st question.................Why?
2nd question............... bin it weight it in for scrap?
3rd question...........play about with this project or sit with a boring relative over xmas?
JUST LIKE TO ADD,DO NOT TAKE THIS AS A HOW TO FIX GUIDE,I DID THIS MYSELF AND WILL TAKE NO RESPONSIBILLTY IF YOU FOLLOW THESE WAYS AND END UP AS DUST,IF YOUR NOT SURE,DONT DO IT
ELECTRICKY KILLS
regards
Shedendman
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damn,you cant see the smoke,lol sorry about that
brightspark
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easy answer the insulation on the windings have broke down 
a megger insulation tester would have shown it before turning it on 
was worth a try though nowt to loose
a megger insulation tester would have shown it before turning it on was worth a try though nowt to loose
These recent pics show a wire ( part of the field coil ? ) that is bare. It is enamelled copper wire, but still seems to be bare in some places. Was it like that before the test, or has the insulation just burnt off? Either way, it should be sleeved, to stop it shorting against the motor frame. That may stop the RCD from tripping.
The brass plate on the motor shows "12.6 / 6.3 Amps", which could relate to running series or shunt. The existing link on the motor terminal strip probably has the field in series with the armature. Shunt would be the field coils in parallel with the armature windings, taking more current ( 12.6A ). But I can't make out the other printed values.... is this motor actually rated at 240V ?
The brass plate on the motor shows "12.6 / 6.3 Amps", which could relate to running series or shunt. The existing link on the motor terminal strip probably has the field in series with the armature. Shunt would be the field coils in parallel with the armature windings, taking more current ( 12.6A ). But I can't make out the other printed values.... is this motor actually rated at 240V ?
Shedendman
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long awaited update
The project was pushed aside for a week or so due to van problems which had to be dealt with 1st over this
Finally on thursday my sparky pal came and had a look,and pretty much said what you guys had also mentioned and basically gave me two options,bin it or get it repaired,so i thought i'd ring around for some prices,sent all the details,photos,problems to a company that does rewinds not far from me,when they got back to me with a figure of £270
for a complete overhaul and possible rewind,the phone went down and option one seemed the best.................unless of course someone here wants it
,otherwise it'll go on the fleabay as spares or repair.
So this now brings me towards the pump itself,as you can see i've given it a good clean up,the reason for the cut pipe is there was a split further down from the cut and i'm not thinking of using the old gas bottle as a tank(its to bloody heavy).
After the clean up i did a test on it,with a socket over the nut(pulley) and using a speed wrench clamped to the bench turning it round like a banshee it works,loads of compression and sounded sweet.
Now ,what to do next,was thinking of an rigging it up with a small petrol engine,converting maybe an old gas bottle as a tank mainly just for the fun of it really,mad i know,or flog it as it stands.
Finding specs about this pump is like rocking horse poo,cant get any info whatsoever,so its been put aside for now untill it gets my attention again
The project was pushed aside for a week or so due to van problems which had to be dealt with 1st over this
Finally on thursday my sparky pal came and had a look,and pretty much said what you guys had also mentioned and basically gave me two options,bin it or get it repaired,so i thought i'd ring around for some prices,sent all the details,photos,problems to a company that does rewinds not far from me,when they got back to me with a figure of £270
for a complete overhaul and possible rewind,the phone went down and option one seemed the best.................unless of course someone here wants it,otherwise it'll go on the fleabay as spares or repair.So this now brings me towards the pump itself,as you can see i've given it a good clean up,the reason for the cut pipe is there was a split further down from the cut and i'm not thinking of using the old gas bottle as a tank(its to bloody heavy).
After the clean up i did a test on it,with a socket over the nut(pulley) and using a speed wrench clamped to the bench turning it round like a banshee it works,loads of compression and sounded sweet.
Now ,what to do next,was thinking of an rigging it up with a small petrol engine,converting maybe an old gas bottle as a tank mainly just for the fun of it really,mad i know,or flog it as it stands.
Finding specs about this pump is like rocking horse poo,cant get any info whatsoever,so its been put aside for now untill it gets my attention again
Go on freecycle and claim a old washing machine, ask your sparks mate to wire up the motor to a plug and away you go.
I have a linisher with an induction lawmower motor on it, works a treat, came brand new in a flymo box off eblag for a fiver.
If you go the washer way, get the whole thing, as you need some of the gizmo's in it to make the motor work, allthough there is a webpage that has some good explanations.
I'd offer you some readies for the pump, as I'm looking for summat like this to bash onto my landie for onboard air, but I think the postage cost with the weight of that thing would be a bit silly.
I have a linisher with an induction lawmower motor on it, works a treat, came brand new in a flymo box off eblag for a fiver.
If you go the washer way, get the whole thing, as you need some of the gizmo's in it to make the motor work, allthough there is a webpage that has some good explanations.
I'd offer you some readies for the pump, as I'm looking for summat like this to bash onto my landie for onboard air, but I think the postage cost with the weight of that thing would be a bit silly.
Shedendman
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Your right about the P&P it weighs it at 13kgs and i'll have to build up a strong box for it with bomb proof packing,not that royal mail etc are heavy handed
Flathead_Dave
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Your right about the P&P it weighs it at 13kgs and i'll have to build up a strong box for it with bomb proof packing,not that royal mail etc are heavy handed
Work out the height with filter removed and packed loose.
Bolt to a ply base.
Get a quote from here
https://www.theparcelnetwork.com/cms/?ad=parcel_delivery&gclid=CLKpvJa7s6YCFQ1O4Qod00_DZw
