- Thread starter conor1n
- Start date
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
That's true. I just need to try and get at it each weekend, and if not weekend then a few hours in the week.
The loom is slowly slowly, not done much yet.
I need to order a haul of stuff from Car Builder Solutions.. And then this and this crimp. Bloody expensive... I think what I am going to do is rent this kit out when I get back to the UK as I am sure people would happily rent out the kit for 30/40 quid versus having to outlay the cost, for what is a weekends worth of crimping. If I were to rent them out a few times and then sell they would cost very little. Or just rent them and keep them. Either way, crikey, they are expensive.
I think once I have everything in order I am going just use wiring diagram to strip out wires I don't need and then just copy the layout of existing loom like/for like.
The plan is to use a subset of wire colours so I need to buy about 5 colours of wire as opposed to 25 lol. Still need to nail down the correct gauges. Colour scheme wise I think it will be as follows for the engine bay. I got this from the High Performance Academy YouTube video. Seems logical.
Still not sure how I will label everything. I think I am going go down the route of using one of those label printers to just print loads of number from 1 - 999 (twice) and then just number each end of the cables followed by some clear heat shrink. Then provide a lookup sheet of what each number is.
That's where I am at with the loom anyway. I did say I'd not done much, but I suppose that's the physical side not done, i've been thinking about this loads and researching the bits etc, so that progress, I guess. Thanks for asking, it's just highlighted my progress to me
On the electrics front. I want to do some kind of "race car" setup.. I've been collecting photos of various dashboards. I quite like the layout of the first.. Fun fact, the lower portion of the first one is actually I bin, I believe!
The second photo shows a format/style of buttons that I like. It's simple and I should be able to fabricate something similar myself. Instead of having LEDs above each toggle switch, i'll probably get the switches with the led at the tip of the switch.
I would really like to get a button panel for the steering wheel but that's really just inviting cost and more work. I can avoid that I think, if I can reach all the buttons on dash when fully harnessed in.
Actually for some frequently used buttons such as indicator, head lamp, horn, and wiper/washer I might add them onto the right of the dash. For easy access. The place where you usually see buttons for fogs, headlight adjust etc. In fact, now that I think of it, might just keep the the stalks.. but they aren't very race car are they? LOL. I guess above the race car vibes I want the car to be somewhat usable by me and others. Removing the standard controls (stalks) basically breaks that concept. Shrugs shoulders.
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,248
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Wow, those crimpers are a bit spendy, especially the TE ones but not surprised as most TE stuff isn't cheap
I've used cheaper ones for crimping Econoseal terminals and they seem to do the job OK
I always struggled to make wiring looms look good after modifications, more practice needed I guess and Project Binky has given me some inspiration
I've used cheaper ones for crimping Econoseal terminals and they seem to do the job OK
I always struggled to make wiring looms look good after modifications, more practice needed I guess and Project Binky has given me some inspiration
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
Are econoseal the same type as Deutsch type? Do you know what crimp you used or can you link to one that might do the job?
Do share your learnings in regards to painting I've to go down that route and any anything I can learn from others would be great. For 1mm and below sheet B&Q has actually been pretty useful for me if you're looking for materialWill also be using some of the larger panels to practice painting. Or at least so that my first time using a spray gun isn't on my car
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,248
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
Thank you. I think these ones are similar to the cheaper crimp set I posted above. My set offers more dies for a wider range I think too. May I ask how much yours was?
I don't think it will cover the Deutsch connectors. I think they are very much proprietary.
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
Will do mate. But before I forget.. I will say the SprayGunsDirect have been great to deal with for 3 reasons..
1) They do an all in one delivery / customs pricing on their site, so the price you pay them is what you end up paying. No customs delays, no clearance fees etc.. They sort out the import duties and pay directly to Irish government. I spoke at length to one of the company directors about this and he was very obliging.
2) There is a lady, Holly Byard working there who is quite technical and had no problem taking calls from me going over my shopping list and advising.
3) They seem to be a one stop shop for all bodywork supplies and seem well priced too.
4) EDIT: Package just received -- ordered on 8th, despatched on 9th just received today 10th June at 13:43. Boom - total post Brexit bliss.
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,248
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
I have a cheap crimper too, bought the Durite one as it looked better quality and it's a name that has been around for a while
I only needed to do Econoseal at the time so fitted my needs
Only thing I don't like about Econoseal is the connectors are quite bulky, ok for 2 or 3 wires but anything more is too much but they are miles ahead of other stuff including the usual red/blue/yellow crimps that most people use on cars and don't even get me started on Scotchlocks
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
I got a welding jacket which is out of shot. I can imagine i'll likely never use it though.
...Oh and this compressor. It's 50 ltr. I made a mistake. It's already up for sale and i'm going to get a 200 ltr. Better just bite the bullet now I guess. I didn't realise the tools I would be using are some of the most demanding (die grinder, sander).
I'll take a hit of a few quid, but will put it down as a lesson to do more thorough research in future. (I was too caught up with CFM figures).
Danez
Never late in a V8!
- Messages
- 533
- Location
- Lancashire, England
very nice
i have a french hatch I'll be doing similar work to so I'll follow this closely for advice/inspiration
where did you get the spit from? I've thought about getting one as being on my back welding the underside does not appeal to me lol
i have a french hatch I'll be doing similar work to so I'll follow this closely for advice/inspiration
where did you get the spit from? I've thought about getting one as being on my back welding the underside does not appeal to me lol
- Messages
- 2,953
- Location
- Never Never Land
Bullet2012
Member
- Messages
- 4,927
- Location
- 238 855 miles from the moon
Do you want to adopt an old Englishman? 
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,248
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Been there but should have known better, had a Clarke 150l, 14cfm compressor but was pushed for space, sold it and bought what you have in the picture and regretted it.
Visit to the local scrap yard and spotted another Clarke lurking in a pallet and it ended up coming home with me. It needed a new switch and had been in a carpentry shop minus it's air filter. New switch, filter, strip and clean the pump, refreshed the wiring and it's good to go.
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
What you got?
I actually got the spit on loan from somebody who is at the unit I am in. He bought it for his own project, but not used it yet. It is a total game changes. Heck, I can work on the underside of the car so easily. I cannot state how easier and comfortable it makes things.. I would argue you will do a better job too given that it is far more leisurely and with better lighting etc.
I hate telling people their business... but.... you absolutely should get one of these if you can swing it. If you want to sell it after you will have no problem doing so as there is huge demand for them. I would never attempt a restore without one now..
They are aren't they!? I'm still on the fence, but likely to take the plunge :/
Haha.
Exactly. Along with my crashed car door I now have some steel box and offcuts to practice welding. I can practice mig and stick now.
Do you want to adopt an old Englishman?
Where are you based anyway?Nice. Yea, I think for car projects you need to just take the 200 litre plunge. I didn't realise that the tools I am using are so hard on air.
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
Monday morning update on project.
I'm also too lazy to re-post this other work log, but you can read about my fixing of the rear window seal on my SL here.
Still nothing really, Clio wise. Over the past week I bought two shelving racks from Screwfix and installed them. They are amazing. I got some boxes too, to store all my bits. Sadly no photos but it's really impressive. I'm quote anxious now however as some new guys are going to be setting up beside me soon enough to do similar work.
At this point I have just about absolutely everything you need for a resto project. I hope they don't start helping themselves.
I wired up my welder to a domestic plug with 13A fuse.. seems a bit dodge but I read on here that people do that and it's fine. I'll be welding on the lower end of stuff anyway.
Is this a good wiring job? Would it pass certification? Or is there too much exposed copper around the earth pin? How would you improve? I want to wire plugs perfectly.
So here is my proposed welding setup.. the trolley is the lower end of a server cabinet we discarded at home (In the previous photo, my new purchases were sat on the upper end, which also makes a great stool).
The plan is to make some mods to have the welder fit perfectly and also a floor to support the gas. I will weld tie on the gas towards the top with some rope or chain.
I was hoping to make the top a welding table type surface, but the cylinder sits too high. The only alternative is to position the gas at an angle and sticking out the front, so that I can weld the surface onto the 4 protruding supports, which is 2mm steel.
Any ideas? Or perhaps welding above my welder/regulator is just a bad idea.
I'm also too lazy to re-post this other work log, but you can read about my fixing of the rear window seal on my SL here.
Still nothing really, Clio wise. Over the past week I bought two shelving racks from Screwfix and installed them. They are amazing. I got some boxes too, to store all my bits. Sadly no photos but it's really impressive. I'm quote anxious now however as some new guys are going to be setting up beside me soon enough to do similar work.
At this point I have just about absolutely everything you need for a resto project. I hope they don't start helping themselves.
I wired up my welder to a domestic plug with 13A fuse.. seems a bit dodge but I read on here that people do that and it's fine. I'll be welding on the lower end of stuff anyway.
Is this a good wiring job? Would it pass certification? Or is there too much exposed copper around the earth pin? How would you improve? I want to wire plugs perfectly.
So here is my proposed welding setup.. the trolley is the lower end of a server cabinet we discarded at home (In the previous photo, my new purchases were sat on the upper end, which also makes a great stool).
The plan is to make some mods to have the welder fit perfectly and also a floor to support the gas. I will weld tie on the gas towards the top with some rope or chain.
I was hoping to make the top a welding table type surface, but the cylinder sits too high. The only alternative is to position the gas at an angle and sticking out the front, so that I can weld the surface onto the 4 protruding supports, which is 2mm steel.
Any ideas? Or perhaps welding above my welder/regulator is just a bad idea.
My Sealy has 2 wheels on the back and a small platform for the gas to sit on and then uses chain that wraps about 1/3 of the way up the bottle to keep it parallel to the welder and I have to say it works a tread even with the big bottle of gas.
I know you're looking at a different direction but by the time you lift up the table top to weld on above the bottle it's going to be pretty high. I kind of like to lean over and be able to maneuver whatever way I want around a part so reaching up onto the table would be off-putting. You could however put the bottle just on the inside edge of the cabinet you have there so the valve is accessible and then to help counterbalance come of the weight extend your welding table ledge to the opposite side.
I know you're looking at a different direction but by the time you lift up the table top to weld on above the bottle it's going to be pretty high. I kind of like to lean over and be able to maneuver whatever way I want around a part so reaching up onto the table would be off-putting. You could however put the bottle just on the inside edge of the cabinet you have there so the valve is accessible and then to help counterbalance come of the weight extend your welding table ledge to the opposite side.
conor1n
Member
- Messages
- 559
- Location
- London/Ireland
Yea it's a bummer mine didn't come with one alright.
I wouldn't think about setting up a table top above the cylinder when standing straight. I think your idea of putting the cylinder on one edge and then overhanging a surface on the other side, is a great one.
