MetalMonkey
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Twin grips would be my first choice, failing that as above, try a smaller socket - should be able to snap the head off if nothing else.
- Thread starter sako243
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sako243
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Smaller socket sizes have been tried. I think you guys are all over estimating how much space there is to work. Only my smallest set of vice grips can get in there straight on due to the front subframe.
Access is only possible from underneath, don't really have any space to work a tool in from above.
I'll try @Onoff suggestion today, I've got some loctite epoxy that I've been bloody impressed with. Worst case it just comes off and I'm back to where I am currently. I will report back.
Access is only possible from underneath, don't really have any space to work a tool in from above.
I'll try @Onoff suggestion today, I've got some loctite epoxy that I've been bloody impressed with. Worst case it just comes off and I'm back to where I am currently. I will report back.
sako243
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I suspect it's too rounded off for that and access for the big mole grips to apply enough force is minimal.
I think if the epoxy method doesn't work then I'll see if I can mask myself up suitably, place a towel over my face and die grind the head off.
Ironically the one place so far where a R/A die grinder would work better than my straight one.
I'll take a mug down as well to get a properly scaled photo too. Basically you have the rad behind it, immovable (without first removing this screw) pipes to the left, subframe infront of it (towards the cabin), subframe to the right and also below it, gearbox oil cooler to the right and wheel behind the gearbox oil cooler. Admittedly the wheel could come off but doesn't gain much in the way of access.
I think if the epoxy method doesn't work then I'll see if I can mask myself up suitably, place a towel over my face and die grind the head off.
Ironically the one place so far where a R/A die grinder would work better than my straight one.
I'll take a mug down as well to get a properly scaled photo too. Basically you have the rad behind it, immovable (without first removing this screw) pipes to the left, subframe infront of it (towards the cabin), subframe to the right and also below it, gearbox oil cooler to the right and wheel behind the gearbox oil cooler. Admittedly the wheel could come off but doesn't gain much in the way of access.
This is what I'd have thought too. Looking at the gap, it ought to fit with one of their slitting discs on it, then a stubby flat head screwdriver, or bit in a small wrench?
dobbslc
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Not sure if these things have been mentioned yet?
www.toolstation.com
Minotaur Bolt Grip Nut Remover Set
Twist extractors to remove broken studs, pipes, set screws and grease fittings. Suitable for impact drivers and wrenches. Sizes from 10-16mm (3/8" to 5/8").Comfortably equipped to take on a larger range of bolts in engines, furnaces and appliances, this bolt grip nut remover set includes sizes...
www.toolstation.com
daedalusminos
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I'd try the correct 6 point socket but with the end chamfer relief machined flat...and hammer it on. If that fails just a touch with the flame from a pencil blow torch (I assume the threads are into plastic and not a captive nut).
sako243
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I know them as Irwin bolt extractors and already tried. Smallest one is too small and next size up is designed for 10mm (which is what the bolt head was) but that just finished rounding it off. I've used them before with pretty decent success but relies on keeping pressure / twatting it hard with a hammer to seat them. The twatting part is tricky because of access and also the whole radiator is on some form of sprung mounts so gets pushed forwards when you apply lots of pressure.Not sure if these things have been mentioned yet?
Minotaur Bolt Grip Nut Remover Set
Twist extractors to remove broken studs, pipes, set screws and grease fittings. Suitable for impact drivers and wrenches. Sizes from 10-16mm (3/8" to 5/8").Comfortably equipped to take on a larger range of bolts in engines, furnaces and appliances, this bolt grip nut remover set includes sizes...
The bolt was so crusty I wasn't expecting it to work.
There are no corners left for it to bite - almost perfectly round now.
I haven't gone out to it yet, since the weather is wet I've hidden away in the office finishing off some coding for a friend's digital dashboard. But I'll probably pop down on the way in for lunch.
I have a mini grinder that doubles as a r/a 1/4" die grinder if you think it'd help.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Theses, done a few with them.
I can't quite tell what the screw is passing through, but in similar situations, the plastic bit the screw passes through first gets sacrificed to allow the screw head to pass through.
Reassemble with a bigger washer, riveted on plate with a hole etc.
I can't see glue of any type holding on long enough if it's jammed in well enough to round off.
If you really don't want to sacrifice some part there, clean it up as est you can, get prepared with an air line, fairy bottle of water, hose pipe etc - tack something on it to grip, then cool it and the area quickly.
Reassemble with a bigger washer, riveted on plate with a hole etc.
I can't see glue of any type holding on long enough if it's jammed in well enough to round off.
If you really don't want to sacrifice some part there, clean it up as est you can, get prepared with an air line, fairy bottle of water, hose pipe etc - tack something on it to grip, then cool it and the area quickly.
I think set fire to the vehicle. The plastic will all melt and Ed will have the screw handy then.
