marlinspike
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They do rust in the boot corners because of water ingress. It is a poor design feature. Car is coming along nicely.
- Thread starter DennisCA
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DennisCA
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I dunno, I've had cars with no consideration given to water ingress at all. At least they provided drains.
I got a hold of 4 'red' injectors from a Saab 9000, also got the fuel rail and pressure regulator though I don't need those.
Gonna rebuild these. The Saab 900 Turbo with lucas ECU is easy to convert to E85 using these injectors which give 30% more flow at the same pressure, the timing is adjusted to 20 degrees or so to work with E85. It's a common mod in the swedish saab community. Many people report the car being much nicer to drive, more power and response at lower rpms.
New fuel filter ordered as well, since one should replace the old one after having driven a couple of tanks of E85 post conversion.
I got a hold of 4 'red' injectors from a Saab 9000, also got the fuel rail and pressure regulator though I don't need those.
Gonna rebuild these. The Saab 900 Turbo with lucas ECU is easy to convert to E85 using these injectors which give 30% more flow at the same pressure, the timing is adjusted to 20 degrees or so to work with E85. It's a common mod in the swedish saab community. Many people report the car being much nicer to drive, more power and response at lower rpms.
New fuel filter ordered as well, since one should replace the old one after having driven a couple of tanks of E85 post conversion.
DennisCA
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Rolled on a layer of epoxy primer in the trunk.
Day after and keeping the garage at 20C it's cured enough to be over painted. I put a layer of stone chip protection. This is oil based with anti-corrosive properties, and can be painted over. Got the tip from another saab owner that it will work as a sound deadener. I tried rolling it on first and that's why it looks off in spots. Good thing I had a spraygun, dunno why I thoght rolling it on would be better... I will remask and do another layer later, then finally paint it over with a matching silver color.
Also some WD-40 on your finger means it's possible to smear out this otherwise impossible to deal with butyl sealant
Also use WD-40 to clean my hands afterwards.
Day after and keeping the garage at 20C it's cured enough to be over painted. I put a layer of stone chip protection. This is oil based with anti-corrosive properties, and can be painted over. Got the tip from another saab owner that it will work as a sound deadener. I tried rolling it on first and that's why it looks off in spots. Good thing I had a spraygun, dunno why I thoght rolling it on would be better... I will remask and do another layer later, then finally paint it over with a matching silver color.
Also some WD-40 on your finger means it's possible to smear out this otherwise impossible to deal with butyl sealant
Also use WD-40 to clean my hands afterwards.
DennisCA
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I've also tested the injectors, they all measure 12.8 to 12.9 ohms which is close enough I guess. I used this thing to test if they worked and they all open at 5 volts, I can reduce to 2 volts without them closing again, so that tells me how little I need to hold them open while in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Shedendman
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DennisCA
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@DennisCA
if you ever need hard to get spares for Saabs,let me know,i do work for a guy here in uk whos got a mountain of such
Maybe, does he have a door lock actuator for a 900 central locking mechanism. I've been thinking of replacing the key locks on this with blanks and relying on a keyless opener only, since the locks on this car can be opened with a popsicle stick.
But the drivers side door lacks an actuator, only the other doors have it. I would probably build in a hidden switch or method to open the car without the keyless opener so I don't lock myself out by mistake.
Also I realize I never showed what the boot space looked like before i started working on it:
DennisCA
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I removed the front bumper again and modified the fog light brackets. They had been bugging me for a while, too far apart compared to factory ones. So I decided to move them 5cm further in on each side. Looks better this way IMO.
(red is primer showing through, I wasn't too careful painting these)
Also a quick rust fix, this was from when I bought the car. I just used a rotating steel brush, rust converter and repeat. In the end I wipe it down liberally with acetone and wire brush it again before the acetone evaporates. I find that really leaves a clean looking and shiny surface. Then fiberglass filler and painting / clearcoating.
Now this was just a rattle can job, the silver paint wasn't even matched to the car. And the photo make the differences more obvious than in real life. Will have to see how well this holds up compared to a proper job.
(red is primer showing through, I wasn't too careful painting these)
Also a quick rust fix, this was from when I bought the car. I just used a rotating steel brush, rust converter and repeat. In the end I wipe it down liberally with acetone and wire brush it again before the acetone evaporates. I find that really leaves a clean looking and shiny surface. Then fiberglass filler and painting / clearcoating.
Now this was just a rattle can job, the silver paint wasn't even matched to the car. And the photo make the differences more obvious than in real life. Will have to see how well this holds up compared to a proper job.
Shedendman
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DennisCA
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I've been taking apart the front right drive joint / hub. I got a new ball joint and a new CV joint to fit. And other ideas.
Start by removing the brake callipers. Pinch off the brake hose and cover the end says the Saab manual.
The callipers came off quite easily, and so did the brake disc itself.
Between that picture and the next it had been quite a while, had to fight quite hard against the bolts in the upper wishbone. I want the entire hub removed so I am removing both ball joints.
The one thing the manual does not tell me is the order of operations for removing the brake shield. It looks like the hub needs to be further disassembled.
Here is also the new ball joint near the old worn out one. The upper ball joint feels pretty good in comparison
The brakes then, the pins slide easily and the gaiters are intact, feel flexible and healthy, I don't think they need to be replaced.
Now I forgot to take a picture of the piston's face but it looked quite "gnarly" so a new piston might be needed but maybe it can be saved... I have taken out the brake callipers because I thought I would run all the parts in an electrolysis bath.
I also want to do the same with the brake shield, paint it and try to extend its life. But from what I read the wheel hub has to come out and that process means it has to be pressed out and it destroys the wheel hub. I don't want to do that. I could put the entire hub assembly into the electrolysis bath but I am afraid water will get through the bearing seals and wreck those.
Start by removing the brake callipers. Pinch off the brake hose and cover the end says the Saab manual.
The callipers came off quite easily, and so did the brake disc itself.
Between that picture and the next it had been quite a while, had to fight quite hard against the bolts in the upper wishbone. I want the entire hub removed so I am removing both ball joints.
The one thing the manual does not tell me is the order of operations for removing the brake shield. It looks like the hub needs to be further disassembled.
Here is also the new ball joint near the old worn out one. The upper ball joint feels pretty good in comparison
The brakes then, the pins slide easily and the gaiters are intact, feel flexible and healthy, I don't think they need to be replaced.
Now I forgot to take a picture of the piston's face but it looked quite "gnarly" so a new piston might be needed but maybe it can be saved... I have taken out the brake callipers because I thought I would run all the parts in an electrolysis bath.
I also want to do the same with the brake shield, paint it and try to extend its life. But from what I read the wheel hub has to come out and that process means it has to be pressed out and it destroys the wheel hub. I don't want to do that. I could put the entire hub assembly into the electrolysis bath but I am afraid water will get through the bearing seals and wreck those.
DennisCA
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I've also put the taillights back. I went and added a second sealing strip on the car body itself, D-profile brown is all I found. But it's almost completely hidden when assembled:
The two sealing strips meet each other and I hope this will create good water seal. There's only one way to find out...
The two sealing strips meet each other and I hope this will create good water seal. There's only one way to find out...
DennisCA
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Well I guess the brake calipers are ready now, multiple times in electrolysis bath.
Ready for paint, personally I'd like gold.
Also built this failure over the weekend to try and force out the lower ball joint, didn't work, simply too flexible.
I got informed the best way to make these let go is to actually shock it from the side instead. I tried doing that with two hammers but without luck. Eventually I took the whole hub to my anvil and rested the other side of the ball joint mount on the anvil, then I whacked it with my forging hammer and it plopped out. Argh the frustration of not having done this straight away!
Ready for paint, personally I'd like gold.
Also built this failure over the weekend to try and force out the lower ball joint, didn't work, simply too flexible.
I got informed the best way to make these let go is to actually shock it from the side instead. I tried doing that with two hammers but without luck. Eventually I took the whole hub to my anvil and rested the other side of the ball joint mount on the anvil, then I whacked it with my forging hammer and it plopped out. Argh the frustration of not having done this straight away!
DennisCA
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Well one last bit of progress this week is that I got the brake shield off, had to drill out the screws but they are thru-holes so I drilled them out from the back and broke off the bolt heads. Then I could cut away enough of the brake shield and slip it over without having to press anything out. Now I can give it an electrolysis bath.
DennisCA
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Finally, many smaller parts are becoming a lesser amount of larger parts again. I went with silver and black since that's what was available. The brake shield is showing some wear but I think I'll get a couple more years out of it since it won't be seeing any salt anymore.
Haven't really done much to the bolts, wire brushed them and oiled and wiped down. Used ATE brake grease on the pins and cylinder. I dunno if this is supposed to be used only on the cylinder but I'll be damned if I am buying two types of grease for this. This tube is big enough to be a lifetime supply.
The other brake callipers came off the car last night and went into the electrolysis bath as well.
Haven't really done much to the bolts, wire brushed them and oiled and wiped down. Used ATE brake grease on the pins and cylinder. I dunno if this is supposed to be used only on the cylinder but I'll be damned if I am buying two types of grease for this. This tube is big enough to be a lifetime supply.
The other brake callipers came off the car last night and went into the electrolysis bath as well.
DennisCA
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This was the result:
And last night was the Saab premiere for this year. It's out and driving now, still got the coolant to flush and then replace the cooler, maybe next weekend. And of course I haven't gotten anywhere on the injectors, just not enough time. I scrounged a fuel pump that's got bad bearings but still work, I want to use it to flush the injectors as they're being ultrasonically cleaned.
And last night was the Saab premiere for this year. It's out and driving now, still got the coolant to flush and then replace the cooler, maybe next weekend. And of course I haven't gotten anywhere on the injectors, just not enough time. I scrounged a fuel pump that's got bad bearings but still work, I want to use it to flush the injectors as they're being ultrasonically cleaned.
ms08
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Looking good and electrolysis is your friend.
I need to re-build the rear calliper's on my 9000 as handbrake is always rubbish though just scraped through MOT last week.
I have some spare callipers already stripped down and will order a couple of re-build kits from Saabits and keep me amused one weekend. I also need to take the offside strut out again as since putting a new top mount in the spring seems to be making odd noises!
I need to re-build the rear calliper's on my 9000 as handbrake is always rubbish though just scraped through MOT last week.
I have some spare callipers already stripped down and will order a couple of re-build kits from Saabits and keep me amused one weekend. I also need to take the offside strut out again as since putting a new top mount in the spring seems to be making odd noises!
DennisCA
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Yesterday morning I was gonna drive to work and temperatures were a bit chilly (-3 C), I had to stop after a few hundred meters and limp back because the rear right brake refused to let go. And boy was it hot after that too.
The parking brake was the culprit, the parking brake is mechanically actuated with a lever arm and wire. The wire didn't wanna move back and it got worse when cold. Some exercising of the thing got it moving again.
Brake pads are nearly worn out though and worn unevenly. They probably cannot move freely in the calipers. New pads ordered and I will be doing a cleanup of the rear brake calipers.
And while I am at it I will apply linseed oil to the other surfaces and suspension components.
The parking brake was the culprit, the parking brake is mechanically actuated with a lever arm and wire. The wire didn't wanna move back and it got worse when cold. Some exercising of the thing got it moving again.
Brake pads are nearly worn out though and worn unevenly. They probably cannot move freely in the calipers. New pads ordered and I will be doing a cleanup of the rear brake calipers.
And while I am at it I will apply linseed oil to the other surfaces and suspension components.
DennisCA
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I've had need of doing a wheel alignment since. I am the kind of person who wants to attempt it myself. I used a digital angle gauge and measured the camber and found I had proper positive factory camber on the left side and negative camber on the right side. Doing some research I figured I would attempt this first. I also need to check toe-in and caster but I wanted to try adjusting just the camber first since camber is what was most likely affected by changing the lower ball joint.
It also looked easy, remove some shims, about 2mm seemed like it might do it. I got the front bolts loosened easily and cleaned up the shims a little before putting them back.
But then disaster struck as I tried getting the rear top bolt loose, bolt head snapped off:
Bolt has rusted to the bearing housing and likely on the threads as well. Panicked a bit here, I was thinking of renting a gas welder but I settled on trying with my tig welder to heat the bolt, got it glowing red easily like this:
And it let go! But now I am worried about having only 3 out of 4 bolts holding and all the force the suspension spring is placing on the control arm. I am borrowing a pair of tensioners today and I will be offloading the control arm before proceeding with removal (and replacement) of the rest of the bolts.
It also looked easy, remove some shims, about 2mm seemed like it might do it. I got the front bolts loosened easily and cleaned up the shims a little before putting them back.
But then disaster struck as I tried getting the rear top bolt loose, bolt head snapped off:
Bolt has rusted to the bearing housing and likely on the threads as well. Panicked a bit here, I was thinking of renting a gas welder but I settled on trying with my tig welder to heat the bolt, got it glowing red easily like this:
And it let go! But now I am worried about having only 3 out of 4 bolts holding and all the force the suspension spring is placing on the control arm. I am borrowing a pair of tensioners today and I will be offloading the control arm before proceeding with removal (and replacement) of the rest of the bolts.
DennisCA
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Car has been lifted and I've compressed the spring, it's not entirely offloaded but I can move the arms up and down by hand a little so I think it's fine??
And I TIG'ed the lower bolt too until it was glowing red, soaking for a few days hadn't done anything I could tell. I had to rig up this little setup with a mirror and lamp to see what I was doing. That got it moving.
I got the broken bolt out by filing flats on it and using a small wrench, after I heated it again with the TIG torch
All bolts are now replaced, the new bolts are M10x50 so a little longer than the originals which was some odd length between 45-50mm.
And the old set including the broken one:
I've also removed 2mm of shims from the front and rear which is what I originally intended with this.
And I TIG'ed the lower bolt too until it was glowing red, soaking for a few days hadn't done anything I could tell. I had to rig up this little setup with a mirror and lamp to see what I was doing. That got it moving.
I got the broken bolt out by filing flats on it and using a small wrench, after I heated it again with the TIG torch
All bolts are now replaced, the new bolts are M10x50 so a little longer than the originals which was some odd length between 45-50mm.
And the old set including the broken one:
I've also removed 2mm of shims from the front and rear which is what I originally intended with this.
