Sharpening a chainsaw chain with a file.....

[8ob]

I did give them a rub with a wire brush, more of a last ditch effort than anything else.

A file is ok to give a chain a tickle, after that its a grinder job. The small 12v dremmel type grinders are my go too, dont lean on the stone, use the whole length of the stone and you would be very surprised as to how economical they are.

Bob

 

[Smallfry]

What Kram said about the cheapo electric sharpeners is right. I looked at a Parkside one in Lidl, was about £20 ISTR. A complete waste of time. So much sloppiness in the mechanism which would not give any sort of accuracy.

 

[Shiny Steve]

I use one of these quite often they are very good, but sure I paid about half of what they cost now.
I used to do a bit of milling with a chainsaw and the chain has to be spot on otherwise you get wandering issues.

G1012XT Granberg Precision Grinder

Works off any 12v battery. Fast and accurate chain sharpening. Once familiarised very easy to use - clamps to the bar for consistent teeth.

www.chainsawbars.co.uk

 

[Smallfry]

A file is ok to give a chain a tickle, after that its a grinder job. The small 12v dremmel type grinders are my go too, dont lean on the stone, use the whole length of the stone and you would be very surprised as to how economical they are.

Bob

Oregon used to sell a little grinder like this, had angle guides on it too. Worked off a 12V vehicle battery, this being just before the advent of battery tools.

 

[pedrobedro]

What Kram said about the cheapo electric sharpeners is right. I looked at a Parkside one in Lidl, was about £20 ISTR. A complete waste of time. So much sloppiness in the mechanism which would not give any sort of accuracy.

I've been using one of those for the last 10 years with not a single problem cutting arb arisings (not allowed to call it waste) in the mud on a farm mostly with the Husqvarna 135 But I have a Stihl 044, MS460 and an 036 to use as well for bigger stuff.

 

[8ob]

Oregon used to sell a little grinder like this, had angle guides on it too. Worked off a 12V vehicle battery, this being just before the advent of battery tools.

I rate them, most chains have the last grind witness mark/angle on them so it very hard not to get the angle right even without the guide. I always think12v is better than cordless, its a battery less to worry about and there is always a car/machine bonnet somewhere to access the 12v.

This type of gadget

12V Mini Chainsaw Sharpener Electric Grinder Chain Saw Grinder File Pro Tools | eBay

1 X Chainsaw Sharpener. 1 X Wrench. 3 X Chucks. 3 X Sizes of Sharpening Stones. Type: Manual Hold. Makes hand-sharpening easier. Runs on a standard 12-volt auto-type battery.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[dobbslc]

Another thing on the watch list

 

[Justme]

Push dont pull.

Also push towards the side cutter.

Files dont last.

 

[Kram]

What Kram said about the cheapo electric sharpeners is right. I looked at a Parkside one in Lidl, was about £20 ISTR. A complete waste of time. So much sloppiness in the mechanism which would not give any sort of accuracy.

Not a waste of time, they still work well but its hard to take off a minimum. I prefer it to the small diameter grinding stones and think it gives a better result.
Replace the adjuster screws and nuts, and sleeve the pivot, and you have a good tool.

There is a 18v tool version which looks like it would be easy to adapt to any brand batteries. I would have got it if the lidl one wasnt so cheap.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Einhell-X-Change-Cordless-Chainsaw-Sharpener/dp/B01LYW3G25/l

For my 3/8 LP chains I am still on my first Oregon file and done a few chains with it.

If its not too offtopic.. this is a good value set. Chains seem good as any other I use

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BX3VN829/

 

[8ob]

Those cheap bench grinders would be ok if the pivot pin/bolt was bored out and a couple of sensible sized needle roller bearings and pin installed. Its what lets all of the cheap ones down.

Bob

 

[zzr1200]

A raker gauge is definitely an investment as well, not that it can't be done by eye but on a small home-owner style saw, if the rakers are filed to much it just saps the power available....

 

[nickk]

I’ve only ever used files,so I keep a stock of the two sizes I need,light forward pressure towards the point,then lift the file off slightly for the return stroke,never drag,just like any other filing op,also rotate the file in its holder regularly to expose new teeth,use a proper file card when there clogged rather than stroking with a clogged file.
Plus one for the depth gauge,more than once it’s corrected a wandering bar.

 

[chrismac]

I’ve only ever used files,so I keep a stock of the two sizes I need,light forward pressure towards the point,then lift the file off slightly for the return stroke,never drag,just like any other filing op,also rotate the file in its holder regularly to expose new teeth,use a proper file card when there clogged rather than stroking with a clogged file.
Plus one for the depth gauge,more than once it’s corrected a wandering bar.

I did notice my cuts were nearly getting embarrassing on thicker stuff, the wander was huge.

 

[frank horton]

never bothered with file allthough I have a few Fiskars for lathe work....
I bought one of these and have sharpened hundreds of chains with it, as paying jobs.....now 15-18 years old and still work great.....
it was €35 euros thought if I got a couple of years out of it....well pleased....

 

[Dcal]

I'm no lumberjack, but I've sharpened loads of chain with a file and never had an issue.
However I always use a guide and I have a vice to hold the bar.

Backtracking here, I have had an issue, on an electric chainsaw which needs a tiny file and I have broken a couple of files, standard chain I just sharpen the chain until I start loosing teeth.

 

[Old Dog]

I've got a electric grinder to reset the tooth if i've been stupid and hit something but I always sharpen with a file. I use Stihl files and holders as they seem to last longer than other ones i've tried. I also use two lengths of ally 30mm angle bolted at each end and then clamped in the vice with the chain inbetween the ally, keeps it tight and upright. Sharpen towards the point of the tooth, and rotate the file every stroke and measure each tooth to make sure they are all the same length and then reset the rakers to the correct height. Little and often is the best way to keep the chain in good condition and don't hit soil/stone/ironwork, some timber will kill any chain no matter what chain it is. I use Stihl chain most of the time but have been using Panther chain when milling timber to good effect. Practice helps.