Show us your workshop/welding set up?

[optima21]

my house used to be a 3 bedroom house, somehow it seems to have turned into a one bedroom and 3 workshop house..... and before anyone asks, I am single

for me it makes sense for me to use the space this way

 

[Burdekin]

Couple more things; lighting (skylights and loads of good led lighting), plenty of electrical sockets (13 and 16amp), well insulated and good heating (make it a comfortable and enjoyable space), piped compressed air around workshop, hooks and racking for good storage (make the things you use often easy to get and they have their place where they live), two work benches (one welding and one general, be able to access all round the welding bench), kitchen and toilet and size does matter so make it as big as you can afford. It will cost you more than you think at the start so over the next couple of months use the time to cost it and plan the space. A big square/rectangular space can be sectioned off for multiple uses.

 

[gaz1]

dont forget cost of parts go up at budget day so try get expensive things before then

always put another consumer unit in the garage saves treking to turn fuses back on

also consider dual 16amp sockets at same place

only cost is for the socket worth doing if you have both welder and plasma cutter and would like both plugged in at same time

 

[addjunkie]

Dont forget security, by your location you will need it.

Before you start, work out how you are going to get power and water if required in. Digging in cables is far easier before the base is laid. I know it sounds daft, but I assisted someone a few weeks ago to wire a shed. Slab about 6 inches thick, and a good foot bigger all round. He had to hand dig the cable in as my digger was too big to work between the shed and his house. Would have probably only taken an hour before the slab was laid.

Also no matter what size cable you think you need, go up at least one size, you will always find a need for more power.

I didnt go for multiple large sockets, I only have 1, 32 amp as I can only use 1 thing at a time and didnt want to risk over loading. As my lathe on the convertor is 28 amps ish, tig 26 too, mig is the full 32, and the plasma is irrelevant as it just collects dust, find its more hassel than its worth.

If you go for a concrete floor, seal or paint it, before you fill the place, or it will never get done and annoy you.

 

[D.wilson94]

Dont forget security, by your location you will need it.

Before you start, work out how you are going to get power and water if required in. Digging in cables is far easier before the base is laid. I know it sounds daft, but I assisted someone a few weeks ago to wire a shed. Slab about 6 inches thick, and a good foot bigger all round. He had to hand dig the cable in as my digger was too big to work between the shed and his house. Would have probably only taken an hour before the slab was laid.

Also no matter what size cable you think you need, go up at least one size, you will always find a need for more power.

I didnt go for multiple large sockets, I only have 1, 32 amp as I can only use 1 thing at a time and didnt want to risk over loading. As my lathe on the convertor is 28 amps ish, tig 26 too, mig is the full 32, and the plasma is irrelevant as it just collects dust, find its more hassel than its worth.

If you go for a concrete floor, seal or paint it, before you fill the place, or it will never get done and annoy you.

Security will be there but im not worried about anyone trying to rob me,they will end up in my boot hahaha ,few points well made about the floor though i do like a painted floor

 

[Burdekin]

Security will be there but im not worried about anyone trying to rob me,they will end up in my boot hahaha ,few points well made about the floor though i do like a painted floor

You do need to leave it for a while before painting to let it dry. The guy who did mine said 6 months but totally agree that it’s much much better with a painted floor.

 

[KaneH]

You do need to leave it for a while before painting to let it dry. The guy who did mine said 6 months but totally agree that it’s much much better with a painted floor.

Yep, got to give the moisture a chance to escape from the concrete as it cures. I’d say minimum 28 days but if you can crank up the heat in there for a few days towards the end it would help. Throw down some watered down PVA before the paint as well to seal the concrete else you’ll end up with patches peeling off

 

[henry Kadzielski]

Yep, got to give the moisture a chance to escape from the concrete as it cures. I’d say minimum 28 days but if you can crank up the heat in there for a few days towards the end it would help.

I agree with that, dryer the concrete the better

Throw down some watered down PVA before the paint as well to seal the concrete else you’ll end up with patches peeling off

However this one definetly NO. I painted my floor prior to moving my stuff in. Concrete was dry so was recommended to cote the floor with PVA 'bad choice' The entire floor was washed, let dry and then coated with PVA. I, the next day had a prime mover to store. Hot tyers, also wet outside and big problem. The coating lifted when the truck was moved and the water from rain made the surface milky where it layed. Was very P!!sed, so water blasted the entire floor space again (330m^2) then acid etched the surface to give then then new coating something to attach to and painted it with Jotacote 605 light aircraft grey. It has been there for 8years, no lifting or peeling. The only damage I have is where I have dropped stuff on it or slid things along it and ripped it up. It is chemically resistant so all things spilled can be wiped up without affecting the paint. Methalene chloride is the active component in paint stripper, this doesn't affect the paint. The only thing I have found to upset the paint is 'cold tank dip'. Cold tank dip I use to soak diesel engine cylinder heads to remove the carbon that is baked on 'works quite well'. So from my experience that is what I would recommend to do, Jotacote 605 is a two pack epoxy, specifically made for coating of concrete and to be chemically resistant

 

[KaneH]

You ran a truck over the PVA a day after it was put down? If that’s the case I’m not surprised it lifted. Like anything you need to give it sufficient time to fully cure/adhere to the surface.

I don’t doubt that an etch primer specifically for concrete and an expoxy top coat would be the best but at what cost? I’ve successfully used PVA as a sealer and bog standard floor paint in a garage that’s had nylon wheeled trollies, pallet trucks, cars etc etc rolled over without any issues.

 

[dobbslc]

Don't forget a bit of emergency lighting, I had a small fitting very the exit door that was also near the lathe so WHEN I tripped the power I could still see what I was doing!
I blagged a fitting from a site that was being demolished.

 

[KaneH]

It may also be worthwhile you looking at a surface sealer/hardener from the likes of SIKA as opposed to paint. A lot more durable especially in areas where hot works will occur.