Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,577
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- Sevenoaks, UK
Fair enough. Is it the same gap between wing and door?
- Thread starter Domdom
- Start date
Fair enough. Is it the same gap between wing and door?
Yes, been using a 5mm drill as a spacer. Similar gaps everywhere.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,577
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Could easily print some neat little plastic "drawing pin" shaped things with a 5mm pin...
OK, a wee update. Got the driver's side wing on and gaps looking good. the other wing is still being stubborn though so rather than drive myself nuts I've been tidying up and finishing stuff like the seam sealer, replacing all the sound deadening and I even started painting the inside with acid etch primer and rattle can red. It won't be seen once the carpets are in but still want it as right as it can be.
The new sound deadening is noico, courtesy of Amazon. Gives a real workout to the hands having to roll it all down.
As usual, no pics, didn't happen so here you go.
So once I complete painting the sound deadener I shall fill the sills with cavity wax. They were all sprayed with zinc primer before assembly and then the joints were all treated with ACF50 after welding but the more protection, the merrier.
The new sound deadening is noico, courtesy of Amazon. Gives a real workout to the hands having to roll it all down.
As usual, no pics, didn't happen so here you go.
So once I complete painting the sound deadener I shall fill the sills with cavity wax. They were all sprayed with zinc primer before assembly and then the joints were all treated with ACF50 after welding but the more protection, the merrier.
RWD3M
Forum Supporter
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- 3,204
- Location
- Wiltshire, UK
Right, i FINALLY got the bloody wing to fit. When in doubt, back to basics.
The issue was the door was in the wrong place. Wing off, door off, some measuring against the other side, all good.
Door back on and adjusted, gaps looking good. Re-measured the bonnet from A pillar to opposite corner and it was 4mm out. Minor adjustment and it was perfect.
Started fitting the wing and it all came together reasonably nicely. But then the nosecone was way too tight.
I spotted, as did my brother when I sent him the photos, the nearside wing is a pattern part whereas the offside is genuine Ford. Where the curve is for the nosecone to align to this pattern one is abysmal. The curve is all wrong. I did a bit of dressing with a panel hammer to get it back far enough that the nosecone will fit, now I have some filling work to do.
Anyway, the gaps now.
Look at the wing where it’s supposed to wrap into the bonnet. Nothing like the factory part which has more of a curve to it.
So then I got them both fully welded on and dressed back all the welds.
A wipe down inside the shell with some panel wipe, followed up with some 800 grit sanding. I then finished the rattle can red over all the primer I put on the sound deadening. The inside is now good enough to put the interior back in when the time comes.
And now Mrs DomDom is threatening me with sausage sarnies. Deffo nicer than eating sanding dust so that’s me for the day. Snorker baps here we come.
The issue was the door was in the wrong place. Wing off, door off, some measuring against the other side, all good.
Door back on and adjusted, gaps looking good. Re-measured the bonnet from A pillar to opposite corner and it was 4mm out. Minor adjustment and it was perfect.
Started fitting the wing and it all came together reasonably nicely. But then the nosecone was way too tight.
I spotted, as did my brother when I sent him the photos, the nearside wing is a pattern part whereas the offside is genuine Ford. Where the curve is for the nosecone to align to this pattern one is abysmal. The curve is all wrong. I did a bit of dressing with a panel hammer to get it back far enough that the nosecone will fit, now I have some filling work to do.
Anyway, the gaps now.
Look at the wing where it’s supposed to wrap into the bonnet. Nothing like the factory part which has more of a curve to it.
So then I got them both fully welded on and dressed back all the welds.
A wipe down inside the shell with some panel wipe, followed up with some 800 grit sanding. I then finished the rattle can red over all the primer I put on the sound deadening. The inside is now good enough to put the interior back in when the time comes.
And now Mrs DomDom is threatening me with sausage sarnies. Deffo nicer than eating sanding dust so that’s me for the day. Snorker baps here we come.
A bit of an update then. Some work done on one of the doors, the bonnet and wings.
Dent filling first, and some re-shaping of the repaired rear arches. Initial skim of nodge which needs sanding back properly, but the shape is coming gradually. It's amazing how much of this stuff ends up on the floor.
Then put the sound deadener inside the doors and bonnet.
I also put a light coat of Jotun87on the underside of the car, more curiosity than anything else just to see how it goes on. Not bad, but needs a bit more thinners I think. This will be flatted off and then mask up so I can paint the engine bay red. The rest will have Gravitex which will then be overpainted in red. Especially in the arches where stonechips are more likely.
So now concentrating on the underside and engine bay so we can fit the brake hard lines and fuel hard lines and enough running gear to get it back on its wheels.
Dent filling first, and some re-shaping of the repaired rear arches. Initial skim of nodge which needs sanding back properly, but the shape is coming gradually. It's amazing how much of this stuff ends up on the floor.
Then put the sound deadener inside the doors and bonnet.
I also put a light coat of Jotun87on the underside of the car, more curiosity than anything else just to see how it goes on. Not bad, but needs a bit more thinners I think. This will be flatted off and then mask up so I can paint the engine bay red. The rest will have Gravitex which will then be overpainted in red. Especially in the arches where stonechips are more likely.
So now concentrating on the underside and engine bay so we can fit the brake hard lines and fuel hard lines and enough running gear to get it back on its wheels.
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
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- 5,908
- Location
- london
It's dangerous stuff if you suffer from OCD....before I knew what was happening I'd done the entire floor of my Nissan Figaro and started on the garage floor
.The firm mini rollers actually do quite a good job I found at smoothing it out...it does really make quite a difference I think on old cars.
Looking very good...wing alignment can be tough...chasing the problems round the car I found!
@Myles1970
Primer after cleaning up and panel wipe. Then the sound deadening but this has aluminium backing so more panel wipe and then acid etch primer. Then the top coat.
Primer after cleaning up and panel wipe. Then the sound deadening but this has aluminium backing so more panel wipe and then acid etch primer. Then the top coat.
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,862
- Location
- Towcester
It’s gonna look awesome once done
Last edited:
Right, a bit of an update then. It’s been a fairly crazy month, not helped by this
After spraying the whole underside with Jotun 87 to give it some protection I had to sand it all to key the surface. As I discovered, J87 is tough, the underside of a car is covered with fiddly bits, and I detest sanding.
I masked up everywhere I didn’t want the underside painted. Quite important since I was about to use Raptor Bed Liner tinted to body colour and with it being a textured finish I didn’t want it in the engine bay etc, this will all be smooth 2k paint.
With the 4 litre kit I ordered I thought it would be about right. Yeah, not quite. UPOL are rather optimistic with their coverage figures and I just had enough, just! I am going to order another litre as there are some bits which are a bit thin, but overall I am pleased with it.
Kit used. Schulz adjustable gun at 50 psi. Air fed mask. Nitrile gloves. Several rolls of masking tape. Tack cloths. Panel,wipe.
Now relaxing after dinner. NEC horticultural show tomorrow which should be nice.
After spraying the whole underside with Jotun 87 to give it some protection I had to sand it all to key the surface. As I discovered, J87 is tough, the underside of a car is covered with fiddly bits, and I detest sanding.
I masked up everywhere I didn’t want the underside painted. Quite important since I was about to use Raptor Bed Liner tinted to body colour and with it being a textured finish I didn’t want it in the engine bay etc, this will all be smooth 2k paint.
With the 4 litre kit I ordered I thought it would be about right. Yeah, not quite. UPOL are rather optimistic with their coverage figures and I just had enough, just! I am going to order another litre as there are some bits which are a bit thin, but overall I am pleased with it.
Kit used. Schulz adjustable gun at 50 psi. Air fed mask. Nitrile gloves. Several rolls of masking tape. Tack cloths. Panel,wipe.
Now relaxing after dinner. NEC horticultural show tomorrow which should be nice.
Really nice.... I will be doing all of this on a '74 Vauxhall Magnum at some point.
Lewis_RX8
Member
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- 1,574
- Location
- Scotland
Looks brillant , I undersealed the Rx8 with it leaning having to lye down on the floor pointing up the rotisserie looks ideal
To be frank, I wouldn’t do one without either a rollover jig or a ramp. I’m way too old to scrat around on the floor.
Cracking car. Back in the 80’s I had a 3.3 Cresta. Wish I still had it.
Dad bought this new. Still has my baby seat in the back!
Can you still fit your baby sized backside in it though?
