Simple Tig Cooler

[dazza]

Although i'n new to TIG and not very good, i would like to get rid of the WP26 torch, Plus it got hot this morning running some beads at 90amps. So though i would make a simple cooler and get a water cooler torch.

Had a look at some other builds on here but cant get hold of most of the bits so will try to bodge something together from cheap bits i can find online.

This is what i'm thinking so far.

Pump 11.99 ebay.

PC coolant radiator

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191832695517?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Couple of PC fans.

Pc power supply.

Maybe

An ARDUINO with a couple of Temp sensors and flow meter.

No idea on the tank yet.

Can someone point me in the direction of the torch fittings please?

 

[AndersK]

I use these fittings for gas and water.
http://www.riverweldstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1908_1912&products_id=7864

There are blue and red versions available too.

Didnt look at specs for the pump bit make sure it can deliver at least 3 bar pressure.

 

[dazza]

I use these fittings for gas and water.
http://www.riverweldstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1908_1912&products_id=7864

There are blue and red versions available too.

Didnt look at specs for the pump bit make sure it can deliver at least 3 bar pressure.

Thanks! The pump is up to 100psi.

 

[optima21]

here's my cheap one I made earlier

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...-to-use-with-wp20-torch-and-diy-cooler.65542/

you might find that you can make a cooler for less money that it costs for a water cooled torch lead.

 

[dazza]

Thats a great help, just a bit confused as what size pipe/fittings to use. Think the pump can take 10mm.

So the water flows from tank -> Rad -> Torch? Any reason you did not have the hot going through rad then into tank?

 

[optima21]

yeah the pump I got was for 10mm tube and I rethreaded it to be 1/4" bsp.

I work so slowly that originally I wasn't even going to fit a radiator as it would take ages for me to raise the coolant temperature enough to worry about.

I couldnt decide where it was best to fit the radiator in the system so thats where it ended up. I was also thinking of fitting 2 radiators, one between the tank and pump and the other between the coolant return on the torch and the tank (if one radiator didn't do enough cooling).

my actual welding rate might be 5 minutes in an hour, so dissipating the heat isnt too much of an issue. if you can weld at a more productive rate, then my setup may not be suitable.

Ive been welding 160 amps with a wp20 torch without the torch neck even getting warm, but the other day I used a wp9 torch without the cooler at 100 amps and forgot how warm the air cooled torches can get.

 

[dazza]

yeah the pump I got was for 10mm tube and I rethreaded it to be 1/4" bsp.

I work so slowly that originally I wasn't even going to fit a radiator as it would take ages for me to raise the coolant temperature enough to worry about.

I couldnt decide where it was best to fit the radiator in the system so thats where it ended up. I was also thinking of fitting 2 radiators, one between the tank and pump and the other between the coolant return on the torch and the tank (if one radiator didn't do enough cooling).

my actual welding rate might be 5 minutes in an hour, so dissipating the heat isnt too much of an issue. if you can weld at a more productive rate, then my setup may not be suitable.

Ive been welding 160 amps with a wp20 torch without the torch neck even getting warm, but the other day I used a wp9 torch without the cooler at 100 amps and forgot how warm the air cooled torches can get.

Will dropping it to 1/4 bsp affect the flow?

 

[optima21]

no it doesn't make any difference as 1/4" bsp is somewhere between 8mm and 9mm inside diameter, but the hose I used to make the cooler to the torch are 4mm inside diameter.it was just more convenient for me to use 1/4 bsp as its a standard thread size for pneumatic fittings in the uk.

 

[Ed.]

When I built my cooler for the TIG I was advised to not run more than about 50-60PSI as it could blow the thin hoses in the torch, and you only need about 2-3l per minute flow to cool the torch down.

 

[Richard.]

If your really wanting to do it on the cheap you could cobble something up with a second hand 3bar shower pump and a bucket. You only need an exchanger and fans if your volume of water is not big enough alone to take the heat away. 50-60psi down the torch 1-2 lpm feed on the return is ideal.
Exchanger can be anything from an aftermarket oil cooler to computer rads, I've even made my own before which worked super on brads cooler out of a Mtr of 1/4 copper tubing and bent it up and down then fitted in a frame to bolt a fan to. Lacked directional Finns but held enough water Infront of the fan to do the job nicely.

 

[Richard.]

I'm very much of the opinion that if my posh expensive Tig torches are on the line then there is no compromise on the quality of the pump. I've used shower pumps and caravan pumps many moons ago and they seemed to work fine but nowadays it's the real deal with pumps designed specifically for the job especially if I'm building for paying customers. I would hate to be responsible for cooking someone's torch or my own for that matter.

 

[dazza]

This is on its way to me, it has been run dry. What will i need to get it running?

 

[Richard.]

At the very least 4 graphite vanes but the outer ring is also graphite that the shaft sleeves inside and that might be cooked too. Could be a new pump job depending on what state it's in. Be very aware when you pull the shaft out with the 4 vanes in it there are two tiny pins that sit cross over through the shaft. These push the vanes out slightly to make them prominent so they can move the water. If your not careful the vanes and the pins will fall out as soon as you remove the shaft. Not only are they very fiddly to get back in but they are so tiny they are easy to never see again if you drop em on the floor.
Good luck.

 

[Richard.]

Oh and there is the long locating pin that runs right through the outer edge of the graphite outer ring. If this doesn't push back right through the graphite cap or ring then you've got them Miss aligned and the water ways won't all line up properly. You'll cook it again.
This is easy enough to put in right but it's just as easy to get wrong if you ain't paying attention.
First one I built I got it wrong but luckily I stopped it when I saw no water coming out and rectified the problem. All was ok. I used to keep some vanes but I put the last set in one of my spare pump heads. I would personally say given the price of them used just buy another head. You've got the expensive part. Some of the basic model brass heads can be had for £30-40

 

[dazza]

Thanks for the info Richard, i do like to take things apart if i make it worse i will look for a new head. Where can i get the vanes/outer ring from? Had a search on google but can't find much info.

 

[Richard.]

Thanks for the info Richard, i do like to take things apart if i make it worse i will look for a new head. Where can i get the vanes/outer ring from? Had a search on google but can't find much info.

procon always suggest you send it to them for rebuilding and because of this the spares are a pain to get. They even say you shouldn't adjust the pressure valve yourself and get an engineer to set it properly. Now I actually managed to source a hand full of them from an engineer for a few quid. I've never seen one bad enough where I've changed the outer ring or cap but depending on how long yours has been run dry it's very possible. Test it out first strip it down if you like but I'd not waste time building it unless you get vanes cheap.

 

[Richard.]

I've got a pump head but the shaft won't fit your motor. It's a round shaft.
You would need to use it for the parts and strip it down. It's a good one so I don't want to give it away I can strip it for you if you like and send you the spares.
It will be cheaper to post parts to you than a brass lump. Pm me if your interested.

 

[dazza]

I've got a pump head but the shaft won't fit your motor. It's a round shaft.
You would need to use it for the parts and strip it down. It's a good one so I don't want to give it away I can strip it for you if you like and send you the spares.
It will be cheaper to post parts to you than a brass lump. Pm me if your interested.

Thanks for the offer Richard, maybe i should strip it down first and see whats what? Or try running it with water.

 

[Richard.]

Thanks for the offer Richard, maybe i should strip it down first and see whats what? Or try running it with water.

Well run it first. Miracles might happen.

 

[dazza]

As the pedal and pump have still not arrived in Spain , decided to buy an arduino and have been messing this evening. In theory as i can turn the led on and off i should be able to turn the pump on add off with an SSR, also bought some sensors which may arrive next year.
If i do add an LCD it will have to be red to match the one on the EWM .