Simple Tig Cooler

[Richard.]

It doesn't need to be that big mind for a 200 amp machine. I'm working on the fronius one at the mo after it spat its dummy and popped a board. That's 450x 150x 150. Tiny thing.

 

[dazza]

360mm. Wow that's gonna be a big cooler. Should be plenty mind with 3 fans. Yes the auto stop will help. Just ensure you have at least 1 minute of after run time from welding stop to properly cool the torch.

I want it the same size as the welder which is 530mm*260mm but minimal height, so it can stack. May even paint it blue.

 

[dazza]

360mm. Just ensure you have at least 1 minute of after run time from welding stop to properly cool the torch.

Currently its on 30 seconds, when i originally added it was 2 mins but got impatient every time i was testing it.

 

[dazza]

It doesn't need to be that big mind for a 200 amp machine. I'm working on the fronius one at the mo after it spat its dummy and popped a board. That's 450x 150x 150. Tiny thing.

I'd be very happy if i could keep mine 150 high.

 

[Richard.]

I'd be very happy if i could keep mine 150 high.

Height is easy to keep down and relatively unimportant. Are you sitting the welder on top?
The foot print is key to keep down.
You have some sizeable items to try box in.

 

[Brad93]

Coolers are designed to run for long periods, mine runs 10 hours a day at work and that's a big old synchrowave with a coolmate. Probably uses a procon as its not small and doesn't make too much noise.

 

[dazza]

Height is easy to keep down and relatively unimportant. Are you sitting the welder on top?
The foot print is key to keep down.
You have some sizeable items to try box in.

Yep i would like to put the welder on top.

 

[Richard.]

Then you need to design it into a foot print that fits nice.

 

[Richard.]

I think your quite lucky as your welder is pretty big.

 

[dazza]

I think your quite lucky as your welder is pretty big.

I think it should all fit. Going to cut a piece of MDF tomorrow and start laying the bits out, then hopefully try welding the tank.

 

[dazza]

Should have gone for the 240mm rad . The tank is hanging out the back a bit.

 

[Richard.]

Should have gone for the 240mm rad . The tank is hanging out the back a bit.

View attachment 98047 View attachment 98048

No you made the right choice.
You will see when that motor starts kicking out its heat.
Bring the motor forward and have the pump head out side of the cooler. Heat from the motor will warm up that very conductive brass head. Keep it on the outside and free up a bit more tank space. I'd also suggest one of your fans directly behind the motor. You won't need all 3 on the exchanger.

 

[dazza]

Made a start with the tank, maybe i will cut these fittings down? And these need to be shiny before welding?

Bodged together a way to purge it (Richard look away now) but its leaking on the threads of the flow meters.

 

[Richard.]

Made a start with the tank, maybe i will cut these fittings down? And these need to be shiny before welding?

Bodged together a way to purge it (Richard look away now) but its leaking on the threads of the flow meters.

View attachment 98084 View attachment 98085 View attachment 98086

Call me old school. I know u have made a fancy gadget to sense flow etc but would it not make sense to have a way to actually see the flow return. Every one I've made I've always made the return flow visable by removing the cap.

 

[dazza]

Call me old school. I know u have made a fancy gadget to sense flow etc but would it not make sense to have a way to actually see the flow return. Every one I've made I've always made the return flow visable by removing the cap.

I don't think it really matters with this tank i doubt its going to be usable .

 

[dazza]

Need to go and buy some barbed fittings tomorrow maybe some rectus 21 fittings also.

I've seen that there is a panel mount version, also a more expensive rectus 21 which is twin shuts off.

I had to use some thinner tube (inside diameter 5mm) to connect from the rad to the rectus 21 fitting as the hose tail was small. Its some piping i had left over from a job i did on my car. Its very flexible could i use this instead of the other 10mm pipe?

 

[Richard.]

I don't think it really matters with this tank i doubt its going to be usable .

It will be fine mate.
Personally I'd weld all the fittings first while it's open and the back side of the welds can be protected easily with access and finished properly afterwards by removal of heat tint.
I personally wouldn't weld the two halfs together. I'd make a rubber gaskit and bolt them. This way the tank is completely heat tint and oxide free. No issues with distortion and also you can access the inside for a good clean once a year. That's how I would do it.

 

[dazza]

It will be fine mate.
Personally I'd weld all the fittings first while it's open and the back side of the welds can be protected easily with access and finished properly afterwards by removal of heat tint.
I personally wouldn't weld the two halfs together. I'd make a rubber gaskit and bolt them. This way the tank is completely heat tint and oxide free. No issues with distortion and also you can access the inside for a good clean once a year. That's how I would do it.

Thanks again for your help Richard, the halves don't fit together well, don't know if bolts will hold it. (think it got damaged on the way).

I've got the fans working i wanted to switch them off the the arduino but this is not possible without another relay, but i can switch them to low/high so this will have to do.

 

[dazza]

I'm about ready to start on the tank .

Cooler and gas are ready to go and no leaks this time.

The pan is a little less than 0.5mm thick and the fitting is 2mm.

Whats the best way to approach this?

Id like to use the switch to tack up but i've not got it off the old torch yet.

 

[dazza]

I've go no chance of welding these bit together cant even put a tack in it.

But the pedal is working well, arc starts nicely even at 25 amps