SIP MIgmate voltage regulator mod

[WindWalker]

I’ve connected the regulator between the 24 volt input and the pcb connection. That means instead of 24 volts being fed to the pcb/wire speed pot, there is the regulated voltage; either 21, 16 or 12 (my voltages)

There are no numbers on the wire speed pot and the trim pot is already 100 ohm.

 

[chedz]

Hi Mr Walker,

excellent to see this, but its out of my league....I've done the physical mods to my little sip and it improved things, but its still....crap.
Would you consider making these units up and shipping to those of us less electronically skilled than yourself for a few quid profit? i've no clue if these take 10 mins or 10 hours to make, so it may be out of the question? I would of course accept full responsibilty should it blow up the welder (excuse to get a new one )

cheers

Chedz

 

[R Kraft]

I’ve connected the regulator between the 24 volt input and the pcb connection. That means instead of 24 volts being fed to the pcb/wire speed pot, there is the regulated voltage; either 21, 16 or 12 (my voltages)

There are no numbers on the wire speed pot and the trim pot is already 100 ohm.

It sounds like you have things under control.
If you decide to add capacitors later, you will also need to add a braking relay.
Robert

 

[WindWalker]

Hi Mr Walker,

excellent to see this, but its out of my league....I've done the physical mods to my little sip and it improved things, but its still....crap.
Would you consider making these units up and shipping to those of us less electronically skilled than yourself for a few quid profit? i've no clue if these take 10 mins or 10 hours to make, so it may be out of the question? I would of course accept full responsibilty should it blow up the welder (excuse to get a new one )

cheers

Chedz

Hi chedz, hey don’t under estimate yourself I had never even heard of stripboard let alone soldered anything to it when I started this

With the help of Robert and Shenion I learnt about zener diodes, darlington transistors (Tip 122) and which way to stick them together. Soldering the board is not difficult, the copper tracks keep the solder to that part of the board so with a little care it is easy to solder the pins protruding from the board to the correct track only. As long as the soldering iron and solder is kept to the track and pin to be soldered it is not that easy to go wrong.

Use the correct size wire to go through the holes and the same is true of the wires. The solder melts on to the copper tracks not to the board. Of course too much solder and you can bridge a track or get it all over the board but with a little care it is quite straight forward.

If you get really stuck I’m sure we can help you out one way or another