SIP Migs really just crap?

[Drains]

Snowy, I don't know about registered ships (MCA stuff). Boats on an RCD (Recreational Craft Directive) are more paperwork than surveys.

 

[Archie]

Walter, it might be worth getting in touch with Westermans. They deal in second hand kit and advertise that they deal worldwide. I've used them in the past (for the kind of industrial MIG that would suit your purposes very well) and found them to be extremely helpful. Downside is most of their stuff is ex-industrial so probably three phase. If you have three phase then all's well and good. If not it might be worth asking if they have anything anyway.

 

[snowcat]

Snowy, I don't know about registered ships (MCA stuff). Boats on an RCD (Recreational Craft Directive) are more paperwork than surveys.

The MCA and the collective POs are just a joke, last death trap I was seriously involved with, went up the shipping lane (north sea) in the wrong direction, dragged anchor for the best part of a mile(due to no reverse), knocked out two navigation beacons, and pis*** heavy fuel everywhere before anyone took a lookse, just because it was flying under a Greek flag of convinace.......

actually after that was matty with a pigeon Pooh welded main rudder feed, not to mention the rotten ballast tank on another I could put my arm through..or even the crane stays that had broken from ther main stays........

the first person who normally contacts me is the pilot know one else gives a stuff.....

drives me mad the lack of care in this industry *can you tell) grrrrrrrr

 

[boatwayupnorth]

just to add my two pennith, really it is going to be budget, by far the quickest way would be a large industrial MIG, preferably with a SWFU, then use either flux core/ or solid gas shielded wire, if conditions are suitable, productivity to could certainly be double over working with an arc, a S/H machine may be of consideration......

second option, either large heavy oil filled arc or new decent Inverter, Initial outlay would be much less, no issues with shielding, however the welding will take much longer, also the skill needed especially positional will be somewhat......

Any big manufacturers machine is/or should be decent, some offer 3 years warranty, In my experience its piece of mind only, well mad equipment holds its own, in terms of reliability......

If I was making it I would proberbly use arc and MIG, tack up and maybe root with the stick, then fly along and Cap everything with the MIG, ultimately tho It maybe a matter of budget which chooses the path you follow

Thanks for your comments! Of course money is an issue - it always is! How large an industrial MIG do you think it would have to be? From what I saw anything bigger than 150 A is way beyond my reach (for now). I was hoping to buy the welder now, learn the art step by step and start with the big project in a couple of years. If welding is anything like woodworking, it always pays to work with a tool one is familiar with.

 

[weldequip]

150 Amps would put the deck fittings on (and would ideally be TIG, assuming you'll be using stainless fittings), double it & add a bit
weldequip

 

[madkayaker]

loo up "Origami boat" on here got a link to a American site witch might give you good ideas.

 

[boatwayupnorth]

Archie, thanks for the hint. I'll get in contact with them after the weekend. Was looking at their website and the machines they displayed there where monsters. But maybe that was just today and they have smaller welders too.

Weldequip, when I first looked at the buyers guide for a MIG on these pages (http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/buying.htm) I found a 150 A welder indicated as sufficient for 4mm butt- and 6mm v-groove welds. The boat I have in mind has a 4 mm skin and a 3 mm deck. Stringers and frames are up to 6 mm, but there are several parts substantially thicker. When you write that "150 A would put the deck fittings on", what would you say about a 150 A welder for the boat itself?

 

[gavuk]

I should imagine the duty cycle (how long you can use the welder)would be too low on a 150amp welder,more stop starts,with a larger machine running at 150amps wouldn't unduly stress a 200amp + welder,where possible and certainly below water line we used to prep both sides of the joint anyway,i'm conident you can learn how to weld but would still recommend a college course first so you are confident and competent before attempting a boat ,lots of overhead and vertical joints on a boat..not an easy job to learn on..... Gav

 

[boatwayupnorth]

loo up "Origami boat" on here got a link to a American site witch might give you good ideas.

Yes, that's the site where you'll find the 40-footer I have in mind: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/origamiboats/. Search for the BS 40. It's a Yahoo group, so you will have to sign up first. Are you into steelboats too? Must be a heavy kayak, then ...

 

[madkayaker]

not into big boats but very interested in what can be done with simple technology. I an thinking of building a canoe out of sheet timber and fiber glass tape. I am in process of applying to BA systems to build subs but contracts been moved back.

 

[snowcat]

large industrial S/H transformer MIGs are normally quite cheep have no idea of the cost in Norway, an underpowered machine will be frustrating and at the end of the day make a much worse job, much better to go big then turn the machine down.......

 

[boatwayupnorth]

Didn't get that: "sheet timber" - you mean plywood? Lot's of plans for those on the net. If you are interested I can post some links.

 

[Archie]

I doubt you'll find anything small at Westermans but those are the size machines I'd recommend. They'll give you the power and duty cycle you need to make a good job and having a separate wire feed would make life a bit easier.

 

[madkayaker]

that's what i meant but the name escaped me. I have some plans as well as loads others for boats in the same technique