Slag traps

[Bryan Williams]

Still getting slag trapped in inside t joints when arc welding today I was using a little Clark arctig 90,then swapped over to a Sealey 180, which was a bit hotter (I couldn't tell the setting) and the weld was better but still had slag in it
I was welding 5mm plate, using bohler rods.
I was given the rods by work as the lads didn't like them.
Frustrating, I have the angle of the rod ok, I tried tilting the job up and laying it flat, I had the rod just off the steel about the thickness of the rod, I was moving so I could see the weld pool I could hear when the slag was just about to fall forward so sped up a bit but still not getting a smooth slag free run.

 

[Ian James]

@Bryan Williams By traped in the weld do you mean there is slag down the middle but weld deposited an both pieces of metal??

 

[Tigman]

what size rods 2.5 or 3.2 ? what sort of amps ?

 

[Arclikeharrypotter]

A picture would help diagnose the issue.

 

[Bryan Williams]

I get a good run for an inch or so then I can hear it kind of falling forward and getting in front of the rod the then it is ok for a bit, when I clean it up there's holes with slag in.
With these Bohler rods the slag actually hard to get off.
Other rods I get it to peel

 

[Bryan Williams]

A picture would help diagnose the issue.

I will do a fresh one tomorrow drowning sorrows now.

 

[Bryan Williams]

what size rods 2.5 or 3.2 ? what sort of amps ?

2.5,amps on the little Clark Full on so I guess 90,the sealy about the same

 

[sardine]

I thought this thread was about Aldershot on a Friday night.

 

[Ian James]

Damp rods ???

 

[Tigman]

im thinking travel speed too slow , try moving a bit quicker or turn down amps to 85 and try same speed !

 

[Bryan Williams]

Damp rods ???

The rods were actually in a length of box section welded on the side of my stove so they are dry and hot

 

[Ian James]

Have you checked the arc welding tutorial section it may give you some pointers

 

[Bryan Williams]

Had another go with the Bohler 2.5s
Did a few runs with the sealey 160,the ones on the left are with the knob on the welder turned fully on I suspect that its not working properly as there doesn't seem that much difference if it is turned half way then fully off. The ones on the right are with the Clark 90 inverter .
With the Clark I struggle to keep the weld 'lit 'I am having to push the rod into the pool to keep it going.
With the joints it just seems to flare up or go out.
The slag left is very hard to remove.
I'm not the best anyway but I usually get better results than this.
The rods were given to me as Noone in the workshop liked them The welds wander a bit but that's because I really have to concentrate to keep the weld lit .
It was worse yesterday as I was welding the joints flat on the bench but with these I tipped one side up so I could weld from above .
I realize that I'm using low end welders and am not the best but can rods make a noticeable difference?

Also the amp control of the sealey is a wheel with no numbers on, it turns a fair way clockwise till it stops. Anticlockwise it does not come to a stop just freewheels, is it knackered

 

[Bryan Williams]

Had another go with the Bohler 2.5s
Did a few runs with the sealey 160,the ones on the left are with the knob on the welder turned fully on I suspect that its not working properly as there doesn't seem that much difference if it is turned half way then fully off. The ones on the right are with the Clark 90 inverter .
With the Clark I struggle to keep the weld 'lit 'I am having to push the rod into the pool to keep it going.
With the joints it just seems to flare up or go out.
The slag left is very hard to remove.
I'm not the best anyway but I usually get better results than this.
The rods were given to me as Noone in the workshop liked them The welds wander a bit but that's because I really have to concentrate to keep the weld lit .
It was worse yesterday as I was welding the joints flat on the bench but with these I tipped one side up so I could weld from above .
I realize that I'm using low end welders and am not the best but can rods make a noticeable difference?
View attachment 154271 View attachment 154273 View attachment 154274 View attachment 154275
Also the amp control of the sealey is a wheel with no numbers on, it turns a fair way clockwise till it stops. Anticlockwise it does not come to a stop just freewheels, is it knackered

Just noticed top pic of the runs is upside down

 

[MattH]

Looks to me like you are moving to fast and not laying down enough metal.

 

[MattH]

Try slowing down:

 

[Bryan Williams]

Wasn't going fast, slag actually gets worse when I go any slower

 

[MichaelV]

Bryan

Just a suggestion...Check your polarity. I’m not sure what rods you’re running (apologies if I’ve missed it). For example, some 6013 electrodes are intended to run electrode negative. Equally, most 7018 are meant to run electrode positive.

Exceptions exist, of course.

Good luck
Michael

 

[Arclikeharrypotter]

Are you pushing or pulling the electrode? What bohler electrodes are they? I've used all there 6013 options pretty much and all ran fine.

 

[Ian James]

Brian have you got quite a lot of these rods ?? From my non pro eye I would of said the travel speed was to fast and the amps a little low and the possibility that the weld is not being deposited correctly down the joint and not taking both sides hence the slab were the arc has not made contact