molten mickey
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- 38
I have the BOC version of this welder and when i'm using the 1/2 min/ max switches i can hear a clunk/ thump too, the welder is working ok
- Thread starter 130
- Start date
I have worked through the above and cleaned and vasalined the connections.
I am a little skeptical it will help because all were bright and shiny so only the top contactor connection, that I have previously remade was in need of any help. However, it is done.
I have also tightened and vasalined the two motor contacts as a little loose potentially.
I have not tested the machine with just these connections remade.
I have also replaced the pot for the wire speed while the cover was off. Doing two things at once does, of course, remove the ability to tell what fixed it if this does indeed help. However, I cannot see the lack of power in setting 1 min ever being helped by a pot on the wire feed.
Now for another question.
I bought a swan neck liner (replaced the nylon main liner with a steel one quite a while back now but all still seems good.
There is no grub screw to remove the swan neck AND I can slide the liner in from the tip end without removing an old liner - so I guess the liner is missing or this welder never had one. For perspective it was bought new in 1987 and I have not lost the liner.
So should I fit the liner?
Can I just lide it in from the tip end?
The liner has two wide ends and a narrow middle. One of the wide ends is short line a funnel and the other end is wide for approx. 15mm after it goes wide, so which end goes in first?
mike 109444
Member
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- 4,722
Still out there then ..
See the 6th item down. http://www.weldequip.com/hobby-torches.htm
Take it it's a bit like that one.
Think the ideal is that as the wire exit the gas valve block, it is guided "into" the neck liner by the cone shape and so the bigger cone would go to the gas block end.
There was a good write up on a similar mig that changed hands between two forum members and the new owner did a good overhaul of said machine and felt the machine was transformer. Will try and find it.
See the 6th item down. http://www.weldequip.com/hobby-torches.htm
Take it it's a bit like that one.
Think the ideal is that as the wire exit the gas valve block, it is guided "into" the neck liner by the cone shape and so the bigger cone would go to the gas block end.
There was a good write up on a similar mig that changed hands between two forum members and the new owner did a good overhaul of said machine and felt the machine was transformer. Will try and find it.
mike 109444
Member
- Messages
- 4,722
Cheers, from pic in there I fitted it with the same orientation.
I actually gave one of those Cebora hobby that was given to me to a neighbour to work on his car.
I guess I shoul dhave tested it or bagged if for parts but I think I forgot mine was being a PITA
He gave it away to a friend (erm ok not my plan) and the friend used it to weld my neighbours car.
You know what it's like. When not welding no good reason to buy one ready for the warranty to expire when sitting, and when needed no time to go research and make a good choice.Still out there then ..
The handle I made in the 1980s
The L shaped brackets were scrap that held truck engines and gearboxes to pallets for shipping chopped up with an Opel Manta seat bolt
Case off
Potentiometer without the extra 2 mounting pins from a thread off here compare to old one
Here you see there is no need to unsolder the two pins that are for location only, straighten the tabs unsolder the other three and it slides off..........
Which gives easy secure location prior to soldering the three pins
The originals were bent over before soldering so I did the same
Then soldered
The L shaped brackets were scrap that held truck engines and gearboxes to pallets for shipping chopped up with an Opel Manta seat bolt
Case off
Potentiometer without the extra 2 mounting pins from a thread off here compare to old one
Here you see there is no need to unsolder the two pins that are for location only, straighten the tabs unsolder the other three and it slides off..........
Which gives easy secure location prior to soldering the three pins
The originals were bent over before soldering so I did the same
Then soldered
The clamp I fitted years ago in this thread with 70mm2 cable and lug added, compared to old earth lead. Yes I know it is a daft size.
Printed a shield to protect the new potentiometer via shielding the knob. Could not get countersink M5 x 10mm at B&Q so yep, made do. Would have been prettier but function and lack of delay / messing rules.
New cable is too thick to bend enough internally so additional expense of a 25mm hole cutter makes the cheap overkill thick lead a bit expensive now.
Generated an M24x50mm bolt in freecad 2.0 using a script then subtracted a generated tap and printed and recycled a test M10 printed bolt. Oh also printed M24 nut of course.
Poor pic of the inside of it fitted
And outside.
Printed a shield to protect the new potentiometer via shielding the knob. Could not get countersink M5 x 10mm at B&Q so yep, made do. Would have been prettier but function and lack of delay / messing rules.
New cable is too thick to bend enough internally so additional expense of a 25mm hole cutter makes the cheap overkill thick lead a bit expensive now.
Generated an M24x50mm bolt in freecad 2.0 using a script then subtracted a generated tap and printed and recycled a test M10 printed bolt. Oh also printed M24 nut of course.
Poor pic of the inside of it fitted
And outside.
Lug with a long bolt and thick washer used. Not necessarily the tidiest connection but a lot ore surface area than is necessary.
First weld outdoors with a bit of a breeze. 1.3mm plate favoured onto flimsy clothes rail tube maybe half a mm or a bit thicker. I have burnt through and some is oxidised due to wind but not a bad first weld insections. The problem of no power on 1 min is clearly solved though obviously I don't know which of the things I did fixed it.
So summary:
I'm happy enough I think this has worked for now, the real test will be when I get it back on a car body.
First weld outdoors with a bit of a breeze. 1.3mm plate favoured onto flimsy clothes rail tube maybe half a mm or a bit thicker. I have burnt through and some is oxidised due to wind but not a bad first weld insections. The problem of no power on 1 min is clearly solved though obviously I don't know which of the things I did fixed it.
So summary:
- Potentiometer
- Cleaned connections as per drawing earlier in thread (all were good and clean so not sure of benefit but done)
- Changed earth lead end to end
- Swan neck liner
- Cleaned out clapper arm pivot - 30 years dust made it stiff
- Vacuumed out inside for good measure
- Opened gearbox - was clean and free running so no action, put back as was.
- Printed earth fittings (result of my over sizing)
- Printed knob shield (didn't shorten spindle, maybe I should have.)
I'm happy enough I think this has worked for now, the real test will be when I get it back on a car body.
