neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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1 coat would be good if i can get away with it
- Thread starter neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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danelectro
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What make of paint is it, and what type??? Any labels on the tin??
neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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yes it;s
http://www.jawel.co.uk/jawel_pdf_data/Jawel Truck Coat Tech_sheet2010.pdf
Jawel SYNTHETIC OIL BASED TRUCK COAT POLY PLUS PETROL RESISTANT CHASSIS PAINT BLACK
danelectro
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Yep, I reckon that's good to heat up. Like I say, saucepan of boiling water, put the tin in the water and leave it for a while before spraying, you'll see the consistency will get a lot thinner, then bang it on!!! Just remember, don't lay it on really heavy as it will flow out well anyway, too heavy it'll flow all over the place...mainly the floor!!!!!!!!!!!!!
neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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it'll take me about 20 mins to paint it all so will i keep having to warm it up to keep it runny? Also will it not need thinning if it's warm and if so could i just put the paint straight into the paint gun canister and put that in the hot water do you reckon (because the paint is in a 5Lt tin so obviously i couldn't heat that!)?
Chickenjohn
Morris Minor and Porsche 944 fan
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Personally, I would not heat the paint- I would decant about 200ml into a plastic (Clean and grease free!) jug or paint mixing cup and dilute with about the same volume of cellulose thinners.
I found that Chassis black, when applied neat takes ages to dry but when sprayed on diluted with thinners dries to a tack in about 10 mins, enabling another coat to be applied.
Experiment on some scrap pieces!
I found that Chassis black, when applied neat takes ages to dry but when sprayed on diluted with thinners dries to a tack in about 10 mins, enabling another coat to be applied.
Experiment on some scrap pieces!
danelectro
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I guess it's horses for courses, having been a pro truck sprayer many moons ago, we always did hot spray. You get the best finish with one coat. Yes it may take a little longer to dry, but you'll get a good heavy finish which is ideal for a chassis, and you don't have to re-coat it.
If you do go the thinners route, I wouldn't use cellulose thinners, use a proper synthetic thinner.
Yes Neil, you can be a bit limited on how much you can heat up, but a litre of paint will go a long way. to put it in to real terms, I could hot spray a panel 10' x 6 with a litre of paint.
Either way Neil, spray how you feel comfortable, it's all very well me saying my bit, but you're doing it, not me, so as CJ just said, do some test pieces, and see what you come up with.
neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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just back on the heating the paint issue-when you say put in a saucepan of boiling water-i assume this is after i have taken it off the heat source? If o how long shall i leave the paint can in the water to get it nicely heated-are we trying to get the paint a bit warm or hot? Once i have painted them up i then leave them for normally 48hours, so i would imagine they would be dry by then?
danelectro
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Well, as long as you're not heating the can directly, then you can leave it on heat.
We used to use the old burco boilers, and as I recall, we would put 5litre tins on the boil for a good 20-30 mins. you cant really boil it too much, in fact th longer it's on the thinner it is!
As before, do a little trial and see how you go
langy
langys rodshop
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I too have sprayed commercials and danelectro is giving good advice, the warming of the paint really gives a nice shine and the paint flows much better, you need to use the correct synthetic thinner though.
neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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yeah, i've got some synthetic thinners for the paint, not sure how much to thin it by though, i guess its just a case of practising as you say
danelectro
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Thanks Langy.....I was beginning to think my advice was from the dark ages!!!
Whatever you do neil, don't put too much synthetic thinners in it, it won't take a lot to throw it into a very runny mess!!
Whatever you do neil, don't put too much synthetic thinners in it, it won't take a lot to throw it into a very runny mess!!
langy
langys rodshop
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danelectro
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We might both be from the dark age mate
Lol, yeah maybe you're right...happy days they were too!!!!!!!!!!!
I've just been having a little nosey at your website, couldn't help but notice that chevy pickup (or is it GMC badged?!) I'm at the tail end of doing a 1950 3100 (original spec) for a friend, so as you can imagine, if I see a pickup, I'm drawn to it!!!!!!!! I'm thinking that one must be around 55-57?????
So tell me is it yours???
langy
langys rodshop
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This one ??? If so its a 1956 Ford F100 and yes its mine, or was as i sold it recently. Built it in 1997 ground up restoration.
danelectro
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Ah hell, I was way out then....well, apart from the year(ish)!!!!!!!!!
That's a beauty mate, very very nice indeed......and then you go and sell it!!!!!!!!!
That's a beauty mate, very very nice indeed......and then you go and sell it!!!!!!!!!
langy
langys rodshop
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Had it for 12 years mate got something better now 8-)
all painted in epoxy primer and 2 pack base & clear, looked as good the day I sold to the day I painted it.
all painted in epoxy primer and 2 pack base & clear, looked as good the day I sold to the day I painted it.
neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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thanks for all the help with this one guys, sprayed them last weekend and your right, that paint is great, its really glossy and sets rock hard with just one coat. Only probs i had was the first on i did i sprayed too much on and got some sags, but from then on it was great. the worst bit was cleaning the gun after which seemed to take forever, probably just not used to it-i think i need to be more liberal with the thinners when cleaning out the gun/pot as the paint is hard to budge! Also my goggle kept steaming up so i might get a face shield for next time, definitely want something because the bloody stuff doesn't come off!
neilgrahamirwin@hotmail.c
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regarding thinnin, i reckon i only added about 10% thinners, the paint gun came with a vicosity cup to measuere the vicosity and i just made it as thick as it suggested for that type of paint-i'm guessing the thicker the paint the less likely it is too drip/sag?? I was really surprised by how little paint was used up, i made up about 500ml but used about half of it, i've put the rest in an air tight glass container so i can use it next time-i reckon i will mix a load up (with thinners) to right consistency and store it in air tight container as it's a bit of a faff doing it every time and should mean less things to clean up after.
danelectro
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Glad you got it done Neil, it's always a good feeling when you get the result you want!!
As for the occasional sag or run, we all get them!!!!!!!
I'd recommend you don't bother with goggles, as said before, just smother your face in vaseline, this prevents it sticking to your skin!! And your goggles!!!!!!!!! But this method can only be used with synthetic, never try it with 2pack!
Why don't you pop a picture up for us all, always keen to see ppls projects???
As for the occasional sag or run, we all get them!!!!!!!
I'd recommend you don't bother with goggles, as said before, just smother your face in vaseline, this prevents it sticking to your skin!! And your goggles!!!!!!!!! But this method can only be used with synthetic, never try it with 2pack!
Why don't you pop a picture up for us all, always keen to see ppls projects???
