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Cobbler
Codger bodger
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Seen a few Mini choke cables glowing where people forgot the earth strap years ago.
Dcal
Member
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I finished fixing some more rust on my Alfa 159.
This is a bit of a saga, I started in September but I wasn't in a rush, which was just as well.
The rear of the sills are a bit crusty.
This is the worst side, the other side was the same but less so.
Cut out the rust and cleaned it up.
I gave most of the inside two coats of epoxy but I used galv paint on the bits that were to be welded.
Then made a patch.
And welded it in
Cleaned it up and applied two coats of epoxy to the outside with a brush.
That's as far as I got before the test, so I took it for the test.
The test centre with the earliest test available was over 35 miles away and the car hadn't been driven for 6 months but off I headed.
Uneventful trip and the test was started as planned, but they then reversed the car back out of the test centre.
They said there was a fuel leak and they wouldn't carry out the test.
There was no talking to them and I lost the date (and the test fee) so I had to apply for a full new test.
I applied straight away and got a date of February 3rd!
No matter, I don't need the car so I didn't bother looking for a cancellation.
Back home, I checked everything and couldn't find a diesel leak or a leak of anything else.
On further investigation I found it had preformed a DPF regeneration 45 miles ago, so it looks like the smell of diesel was just a hot exhaust.
I was a bit peeved so just let the car sit.
Fast forward to yesterday and I decided to try to try and make the repairs a bit more presentable and closer in colour to the rest of the car.
It's base coat and clear, but now is not the time of year for painting outside so I just gave it a quick lick of 2 pack black.
It was a nice day, very cold and it was almost dark before I started painting.
However, I do have a very powerful infrared heater that warmed the panels nicely and cured the paint in a few minutes (thanks @Pete. )
I'm fairness it turned out ok, and it looks far less obvious than white primer.
I will paint it properly when the weather gets warmer or I get some room cleared to get back inside the garage.
This is a bit of a saga, I started in September but I wasn't in a rush, which was just as well.
The rear of the sills are a bit crusty.
This is the worst side, the other side was the same but less so.
Cut out the rust and cleaned it up.
I gave most of the inside two coats of epoxy but I used galv paint on the bits that were to be welded.
Then made a patch.
And welded it in
Cleaned it up and applied two coats of epoxy to the outside with a brush.
That's as far as I got before the test, so I took it for the test.
The test centre with the earliest test available was over 35 miles away and the car hadn't been driven for 6 months but off I headed.
Uneventful trip and the test was started as planned, but they then reversed the car back out of the test centre.
They said there was a fuel leak and they wouldn't carry out the test.
There was no talking to them and I lost the date (and the test fee) so I had to apply for a full new test.
I applied straight away and got a date of February 3rd!
No matter, I don't need the car so I didn't bother looking for a cancellation.
Back home, I checked everything and couldn't find a diesel leak or a leak of anything else.
On further investigation I found it had preformed a DPF regeneration 45 miles ago, so it looks like the smell of diesel was just a hot exhaust.
I was a bit peeved so just let the car sit.
Fast forward to yesterday and I decided to try to try and make the repairs a bit more presentable and closer in colour to the rest of the car.
It's base coat and clear, but now is not the time of year for painting outside so I just gave it a quick lick of 2 pack black.
It was a nice day, very cold and it was almost dark before I started painting.
However, I do have a very powerful infrared heater that warmed the panels nicely and cured the paint in a few minutes (thanks @Pete. )
I'm fairness it turned out ok, and it looks far less obvious than white primer.
I will paint it properly when the weather gets warmer or I get some room cleared to get back inside the garage.
Dcal
Member
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- 3,954
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Yes, suspect so.
There is a lap in the sill at the jacking point.
I wouldn't expect it to extend too far though.
There is a also a cover plate at the bottom of the rear arch which must be only 0.5mm thick.
Expect to have to repair that as well.
Couple of photos from the other side that show it better
JOEPRO
Member
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- UK
Pete.
Member
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- 14,381
- Location
- Kent, UK
Yeah it was a fiver in the boot fair
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
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- Maine, USA
I couldn't resist buying another old Stanley level. I like these cast-iron models because you can adjust the vials with shims. This is a 9-inch Model 36G, the "G" indicating a grooved bottom. No exact date, but made sometime after 1935. It was kind of rusty but didn't look too bad otherwise.
I removed the vials and checked the top and bottom for flatness and being parallel with each other. The top of the level wasn't as flat as I would have liked, but that was easily remedied by resurfacing it with my mill. The top and bottom are now flat and parallel to each other within +/- .0005 inch.
I had to drill out two of the set screws that were rusted in, then tap those holes to the next larger size (10-32). I replaced four of the set screws with new stainless conical set screws. I masked the top and bottom, bead blasted the paint and rust off, and then masked it again and repainted the level in satin black.
I installed new brass shims to adjust the vials, which was the tedious part of the restoration, as I had to try different thicknesses of brass shim stock in .001" increments, removing and re-installing each vial every time I tried a different shim thickness, until each vial read accurately. All three are spot on now.
Done!
I removed the vials and checked the top and bottom for flatness and being parallel with each other. The top of the level wasn't as flat as I would have liked, but that was easily remedied by resurfacing it with my mill. The top and bottom are now flat and parallel to each other within +/- .0005 inch.
I had to drill out two of the set screws that were rusted in, then tap those holes to the next larger size (10-32). I replaced four of the set screws with new stainless conical set screws. I masked the top and bottom, bead blasted the paint and rust off, and then masked it again and repainted the level in satin black.
I installed new brass shims to adjust the vials, which was the tedious part of the restoration, as I had to try different thicknesses of brass shim stock in .001" increments, removing and re-installing each vial every time I tried a different shim thickness, until each vial read accurately. All three are spot on now.
Done!
prepman
Forum Supporter
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- 2,695
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- Gwynedd UK
Today I fitted a mortice combination lock on workshop door. Don't normally lock, but delivery man left parcel inside it...not very happy about that, should have been left in porch. Or am I just being suspicious?
Lock seems a good piece of kit Eclipse branded or chinese knock off
Lock seems a good piece of kit Eclipse branded or chinese knock off
Kram
Member
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- 6,855
- Location
- Sussex
The bulbs and holders are reasonably cheap on ebay, couplle quid each. If your making car patches I think the frame would be quite easy to fabricate from polished sheet.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
From this.
Paint stripping. In the end it was a hot caustic bath.
The bolts and nuts were cleaned up using die nuts and taps.
The "Made in England" casting was not that well defined.
This was to bug me later.
Gold leaf needs to be well defined to take well.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This WW2 Army Pick axe came my way.
As is so common, but wrong, the handle was painted.
The handle was never painted, as it can flake, leading to festering wounds.
You can see it flaking here.
Using a cabinet scraper, made from a old saw blade, the paint is removed.
The metal came up well.
Finished with wax and oil.
With her sister.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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The question was asked, over a strong coffee.
"Hay, TYA, what are you brewing up here and there?
So here what was brewing up.
This rake was in need of some work.
Almost straight.
Baked on Lamp black, oil and wax.
The handle was hand sanded and finished in Linseed oil. Lots.
This WD Hand vice(dated 1944) was next.
The bolt was stripped and bent.
So it was replaced.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Part 2.
Ben, rusty and seized.
A bit of heat and a hammer.
Seized, but not with rust.
The issue was a build up of dirt in the teeth. It needed a hack saw to clear it. Then the old oil and grease was burnt off.
All 3 finished in hot oil and wax.
This is a Guanine Tilley Fuel Funnel.
After the hot citric dip.
The brass filter was re soldered.
This was rust free on the outside, but rusty inside.
The seal is the correct O ring. I see a lot with a flat fiber washer.
In the source pan was these.
Always stuffed with old solid grease. Boiling it out with washing powder gets them clean.
Ben, rusty and seized.
A bit of heat and a hammer.
Seized, but not with rust.
The issue was a build up of dirt in the teeth. It needed a hack saw to clear it. Then the old oil and grease was burnt off.
All 3 finished in hot oil and wax.
This is a Guanine Tilley Fuel Funnel.
After the hot citric dip.
The brass filter was re soldered.
This was rust free on the outside, but rusty inside.
The seal is the correct O ring. I see a lot with a flat fiber washer.
In the source pan was these.
Always stuffed with old solid grease. Boiling it out with washing powder gets them clean.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Location
- Going Away.
Part 3.
Polished up and back in use.
Nice small plumb bob.
This was in good condition, but the string hole was rusted. It would cut into the string.
New waxed string.
The knots used:
The plumb bob end, 2 figures of 8.
The free end a 3 whip Franciscan knot.
This was dangles of the stove to remove some oily wax mix.
The Tilley Fuel bottle had some sort of hard grey residue.
The caustic had it almost all gone.
I even boiled up the pre heater as well.
Polished up and back in use.
Nice small plumb bob.
This was in good condition, but the string hole was rusted. It would cut into the string.
New waxed string.
The knots used:
The plumb bob end, 2 figures of 8.
The free end a 3 whip Franciscan knot.
This was dangles of the stove to remove some oily wax mix.
The Tilley Fuel bottle had some sort of hard grey residue.
The caustic had it almost all gone.
I even boiled up the pre heater as well.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
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- Northern Ireland
Replaced front coil spring on my wife's VW Tiguan.
Brad93
Member
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- 18,340
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- Essex, United Kingdom
Scariest things i've ever had to use to be honest
