Erm, I thought coppaslip on the pad backs was recommended to reduce brake squeal? Lately I see some sticky stuff included for this - or is this an efficiency thing?
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Melvyn Best
Member
- Messages
- 1,645
- Location
- Cambridge
There’s better grease available for use on brakes these days, some are ceramic based
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,910
- Location
- Going Away.
These came my way the other day.
The ivory bearings are long gone. The postal weights are not stamped on the letter plate. No issue on that, it means they could be used anywhere.
Alos there are a series of scuff marks on the base.
The four screws are fitted and then hammered down, making them hard to remove, this was to prevent them being tampered with.
Best way to remove them is to grind a screwdriver to kit the head. Then heat the screws with a soldering iron. This expands them and when they cool they can be removed.
Warm "meths" was used to remove the old finish, the dirt and the glue which held the felt pads.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,910
- Location
- Going Away.
German Swing scales, complete and almost correct in the weighing.
Wrapping it in wax and alcohol, before sealing in a bad to remove the years of crud.
All done.
prepman
Member
- Messages
- 2,715
- Location
- Gwynedd UK
Bought a cheap Chinese belt sander off Ebay. Wasn't too bad, but no power when loaded. Keep tightened the belt as I'd did, thought it may been slipping, ...didn't help. So it just lay around, waiting for the 'ineviatable trip' the the 'recyling' centre. Then, I need to sharpen the blades on my new woodchipper, So it would been ideal for it. So yesterday I removed the drive guard and noticed that driven-pulley was slipping, The driven-pulley grubscrew had been tighten onto round part of the shaft not the flat part. Sorted .....and 2 sharpening blades. Only problem was two microscopic cuts on the hand, took ages for the bleeding to stop.... thanks to the post-stroke blood thinnners. The workshop looked like episode of 'Dexter' (netflix), 
prepman
Member
- Messages
- 2,715
- Location
- Gwynedd UK
Me too
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,910
- Location
- Going Away.
Drown them in Linseed oil.
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 40,626
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
done all of mine with danish oil and all my hickory hammer shafts
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 648
- Location
- Maine, USA
I did some restoration work on an antique pump that I showed in an earlier post. As mentioned, I think it could be a bilge pump for a small craft, activated by wave action rocking the boat to make the weighted pendulum operate the diaphragm pump. In addition to the “Columbian” logo plate, it’s stamped with “PAT. APP. FOR” on one of the bronze castings. I did a bit of searching but haven’t yet found a patent for it, and I’m wondering if it was ever patented.
I took it apart, cleaned it, chemically restored the patina, and mounted it on a piece of oak. After cleaning the ball-check valves, I found that it still pumps water, although the rubber pump diaphragm has stiffened up over the years and needs to be replaced. As far as I can tell, the pump is all original. I still haven't been able to find another one like it. If anyone has more information about it, let me know.
Before:
After:
I took it apart, cleaned it, chemically restored the patina, and mounted it on a piece of oak. After cleaning the ball-check valves, I found that it still pumps water, although the rubber pump diaphragm has stiffened up over the years and needs to be replaced. As far as I can tell, the pump is all original. I still haven't been able to find another one like it. If anyone has more information about it, let me know.
Before:
After:
Yes,23 years old,I’ve another in the small shop,2 years newer,the cause of the motor death,it became loose and shorted against that bracket I fitted for anti condensation light.That's a nice looking bit of kit! Imagine if SIP saw that
Got the "fan-light" fitted in the van roof:
Rigged a temporary feed from the leisure battery and I'm impressed with the fan. Powered open and close, 4 speeds air in or out, and a rain sensor for the inevitable falling asleep with the lid open and it starts to rain...
And covered the upper side panels and remainder of the roof inside the van with sound deadening so it will be interesting to see how much difference it makes on tomorrow morning's 5 am commute to work.
Rigged a temporary feed from the leisure battery and I'm impressed with the fan. Powered open and close, 4 speeds air in or out, and a rain sensor for the inevitable falling asleep with the lid open and it starts to rain...
And covered the upper side panels and remainder of the roof inside the van with sound deadening so it will be interesting to see how much difference it makes on tomorrow morning's 5 am commute to work.
Just ordered more soundproofing and insulation supplies for the van.
At some point when the weather warms up I'll remove the front seats and treat the cab floor and the roof above the headlining to a layer of soundproofing and insulation.
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,974
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Almost six year it's taken me to decide on a spot, but the Swindens is now permanently mounted.
Mounted it at that end as there's a drawer cabinet at this end which would limit its usefulness. Had to mount it around a ⅓ of the way along the bench so that I can still get to the lathe. ½" BSW bolts, bolted into the wood rather than through bolts. It'll never see any heavy work, so the wood should be ample anchorage.
Mounted it at that end as there's a drawer cabinet at this end which would limit its usefulness. Had to mount it around a ⅓ of the way along the bench so that I can still get to the lathe. ½" BSW bolts, bolted into the wood rather than through bolts. It'll never see any heavy work, so the wood should be ample anchorage.
Anguz
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 1,846
- Location
- Northamptonshire
These are the one I used
Soundmat Pads Pack of 10
Vibration and noise suppression panels. Forget that old bitumen-based stuff. Soundmat Pads are made from the same modern, flexible material used by mainstream motor manufacturers. Soundmat Pads can be applied in temperatures down to 0ºC on the inside surface of doors, bonnets, boots, floors...
www.carbuilder.com
