Stuff you have made today

[Hood]

My plasma is visibly not tracking straight and making all sorts of wonderful noises as the gantry gets bound up

You are not having much luck with that

I really need new rails for the Y axis as the ones I have are shot, they were knackered when I acquired them but I stripped and cleaned the trucks and build good ones from loads of bad ones but they are now shot again. Going to just go round rail as it is cheap enough and I put it on the X axis when I built the water table and they are performing well.

 

[Brad93]

You are not having much luck with that

I really need new rails for the Y axis as the ones I have are shot, they were knackered when I acquired them but I stripped and cleaned the trucks and build good ones from loads of bad ones but they are now shot again. Going to just go round rail as it is cheap enough and I put it on the X axis when I built the water table and they are performing well.

I think this is to do with the stupid belts rather than the actual ways as it were.

When do you want to retrofit ours

 

[Hood]

LOL, send it up and I will do it but you will also need to send up a shed for me to do it in as I have no space

 

[Hood]

I thought "Wot's a cutlass bush" ?
Must be something they use in seafaring, aaRRRRhhh ??
Turns out that maybe you've been getting it wrong all these years:

Its Correct Name is A Cutless Bearing | Seattle Yachts

I wrote about this some years ago so it is not a completely new subject However I continue to see people and marine companies use an incorrect word to refer tothe...

www.seattleyachts.com

BTW one of the makers spells it Cutlass so...

standard-bearing-range - Cutless Bearings for Marine, Pump Applications | Exalto UK

exalto.co.uk

 

[Gragson]

The boy made these last week, left a place machining components and frustrated he never got to make a "whole thing"
Working at a small motorsports engineering design place now, loves it, he's their only machinist! They do bits for McLaren..

Air jacks from scratch, their design, rated at 5000kg each, it's all cnc, but will he knock me anything up.... Nope

 

[Hood]

Tidy machining and nice anodising as well. Can you ask him if they just engraved the text on the red bits after the anodising/dyeing or if they masked in some way when dyeing?

 

[m_c]

Tidy machining and nice anodising as well. Can you ask him if they just engraved the text on the red bits after the anodising/dyeing or if they masked in some way when dyeing?

It'll be laser etched after anodising.
The laser only removes the die, and doesn't have any major effect on the anodising.

 

[Hood]

It'll be laser etched after anodising.
The laser only removes the die, and doesn't have any major effect on the anodising.

I need me a laser

 

[Gragson]

Tidy machining and nice anodising as well. Can you ask him if they just engraved the text on the red bits after the anodising/dyeing or if they masked in some way when dyeing?

I know he farms it out, but certainly as MC says.
I will ask but not sure I will be able to interpret the ensuing grunts that come back as a response other than,, can you get out of the way I'm watching telly

 

[Farside]

I need me a laser

Go on, go on, go on.
You know you want/ need it.

 

[Hood]

I need too many other things first, this being the next purchase I hope.

 

[Maker]

I need me a laser

I've got a nice lamp to keep you safe...

 

[m_c]

I need me a laser

I've already got a little one, with a bigger one due to be delivered on Tuesday.
Although both are unenclosed, as I need them to sit over lengths of wood, and they are only low power photo diode ones.

For metal engraving, I'd buy an enclosed one, as you don't really want to be reflecting lasers around the place, but a decent enclosed laser isn't cheap. Cheapest I was advised to get if I wanted one, are the 50W ones that currently start around £1000. The 40W ones aren't that great. The issue with the CO2 lasers, is the tube has a limited life span. They gradually lose power output, even when unused, so you need to factor in replacing the tube.

 

[Fraserb]

Made some dust.

 

[Memmeddu]

Made know carbon arc gouging to my boss on Thursday.
He recognised that it's much more accurate , quicker and cleaner and cheaper than using the cutting torch.
And I just used 4mm rods at 130A , with an air blowgun .
I've explained that there are bigger rods and that requires a special holder.
He said that they will buy it and we will set up an "gouger"(400A arc welder) , I've adviced to buy 6mm rods 200 or 250A would be enough.
I can't wait to start working with this process (I know it will not be pleasant but it would be surely better than hours of grinding of oxy propane gouging with normal cutting tips) + I don't know if someone else it's able to use it.
So more points for me

 

[bricol]

The boy made these last week, left a place machining components and frustrated he never got to make a "whole thing"
Working at a small motorsports engineering design place now, loves it, he's their only machinist! They do bits for McLaren..

Air jacks from scratch, their design, rated at 5000kg each, it's all cnc, but will he knock me anything up.... Nope

View attachment 338296

Be a little careful - I wouldn't mind betting if they make stuff for people like McLaren, there's a line in the contract/purchase orders about no pictures and no posting it for the world to see.

 

[Dev]

Did you give up showing your progress?
Looks good.

Thankyou. It’s been frustrating. I’ll post a picture of its current state if I get to work on it today.

 

[selectedgrub]

Thanks!!

 

[Dev]

Made a pair of I-don’t-know-what-theyre-called things to mate with the rear latches of the model car I’m building.

Now they’re done I realise they’re not thick enough to hold the rear door flush with the rear wings. So I’ll have to make some sort of spacers…. Maybe a flexible filament 3d print to make rubber washer stops? I don’t know.




Here’s where i am overall:




Its taken a lot of work and mistakes to get here. The plans provided are very much geared towards buying the kit from them. So I’ve had to work out a few things myself which I’ve found difficult. The front steering I’m satisfed works - there is a bit more slop that I’d like but at least the way I’ve done it I can adjust the tracking if not the camber;


The stub axle things took a few goes to get right. more than a few. In the end to get a neat, square C section I used 100x50 box.


I’ve a good bit of the electrics solved, I think. Speed control, front lights, I did have a horn but it must have been pulling more current than the regulator I was using could cope with so I guess I’ll wire it direct to the battery instead. I still have rear lights to fit and cable.

The next problem is although I had a quick test run and it was fine (too fast) I need to work out a way of keeping tension on the drive chain... I have plenty of skate bearings so thought maybe use 4 of those on an m8 bolt on an arm with a spring….

I don’t know. Doing all this has shown me the limit of my abilities and every time look at it I seee all the things that aren’t right.

 

[My Old Landy]

Made a pair of I-don’t-know-what-theyre-called things to mate with the rear latches of the model car I’m building.

Now they’re done I realise they’re not thick enough to hold the rear door flush with the rear wings. So I’ll have to make some sort of spacers…. Maybe a flexible filament 3d print to make rubber washer stops? I don’t know.

View attachment 338418


Here’s where i am overall:

View attachment 338422
View attachment 338423

Its taken a lot of work and mistakes to get here. The plans provided are very much geared towards buying the kit from them. So I’ve had to work out a few things myself which I’ve found difficult. The front steering I’m satisfed works - there is a bit more slop that I’d like but at least the way I’ve done it I can adjust the tracking if not the camber;
View attachment 338420

The stub axle things took a few goes to get right. more than a few. In the end to get a neat, square C section I used 100x50 box.
View attachment 338421

I’ve a good bit of the electrics solved, I think. Speed control, front lights, I did have a horn but it must have been pulling more current than the regulator I was using could cope with so I guess I’ll wire it direct to the battery instead. I still have rear lights to fit and cable.

The next problem is although I had a quick test run and it was fine (too fast) I need to work out a way of keeping tension on the drive chain... I have plenty of skate bearings so thought maybe use 4 of those on an m8 bolt on an arm with a spring….

I don’t know. Doing all this has shown me the limit of my abilities and every time look at it I seee all the things that aren’t right.

View attachment 338424 View attachment 338419

That looks great!!