Stuff you have made today

[sardine]

I started on @s410man 's washer. I didnt have a suitable offcut, so it was a slice off the 2.5" bar. Small grinder doesnt have the reach, hacksaw practise...
View attachment 344495View attachment 344496
View attachment 344497
Bore and face done. This stuff turns nice. I didnt think the next bits through - I can grab the ID in my small 4 jaw, but theres no way to clock it in. I'll turn a 43mm mandrel and superglue it on instead.

I'm sure everyone on here already knows this but I've found people that don't know that hacksaw blades come in different TPI, a 14 ( with cutting paste ) will make a big difference in effort on a big cutting job like that, probably save you half the time.

14	Large profiles, aluminium, softer metals
18	General workshop projects
24	Steel plate up to 5/6mm thickness
32	Hollow sections and steel tubing

 

[Kram]

Yes it was a 14 which are the coarsest Ive seen. If I could find them Id buy 10 or 6 tpi blades. Same applies to bandsaws, and the last blade I got came with a wall chart showing what to use.

Generally use the coarsest blade as long as its got 3 teeth engaged. Rough idea of thickness:
14 = 5mm+
18 = 4mm+
24 = 3mm+
32 = 2mm+

 

[Dr.Al]

I wasn't in the mood for all the milling involved in making the jaws (not that it'll take long once I get started), so in the meantime I got on with some lathery.

I got on with the milling this afternoon. Here's the missing photo of the bare jaws without anything attached:

The arrangement (outer two holes tapped, inner two holes reamed for dowels) was the first idea I have - I guess time will tell whether I've done that right. I took the off-cuts of the jaws and made three holes in them, two counterbored, so they fit in two different positions (with one dowel and one screw):

I'll experiment with these ones for a while before milling and drilling the other bits I have saved away for the same purpose.

 

[Dr.Al]

Today I also made these brass bits:

They mount like this on my low-angle jack plane:

and make shooting a bit more comfortable:

 

[Kram]

Turned a bit of 50mm bar and superglued the bore onto that. Took quite a bit of heat to get it off! Washer done.

I'll try and use lathe more.. enjoyed doing this.

 

[DAPPH]

This rubble ramp is the beginning of my new yard surface,need MORE stone/rubble.ill then dress it down with scalpings.Its gonna cost!View attachment 344443

I've got some pals in the Ukraine who have a massive pile of rubble that they say you you can have for free if you bring a 40 truck load of Nlaw's and Javelins with you .

 

[DAPPH]

So todays myself and @mtt.tr assembled my 1t hoist. Very pleased. Can lift 1t anywhere in my garage

View attachment 344477 View attachment 344478

Any pictures of the roller gear , is it on toothed track to keep it parallel instead of likely to skew as you traverse along the length of the garage? One more question if I may , how long and wide is your garage are there any intermediate vertical supports along its length ?
Thanks
Dave

 

[DAPPH]

Nick its worth rattling the cages of the local grab loader guys for hardcore, you should be able to get it for free.

Bob

You might run foul of the environmental guardians . I was constructing my small mammal farm . I needed six 15 x 35 mtr shed bases and 200 mtrs of a 15 wide apron and a turning /reversing dead end point
25 yrs ago I used to get inert rubble off truckies passing my house to the inert land fill site in agreement with the land fill owner and dropped the drivers £10 per 10 ton rigid tipper load

I'd been doing it for 40 or more loads when along came the environmental people . I had to stop , get planning and also put down one of the heavy duty road membranes under 500 mm of the compacted hard core which was then dressed in 100 mm of road sweeping out the back of the councils friendly sweepers.
For the truck loads I had to have waste transfer paperwork .

 

[Morris]

This update is really a sub-project I have been tinkering with for a few weeks as and when I felt like it.
One of my projects is a Ford Pop I am building for Wifey. It's being built to pass the BIVA test and as such one of the requirements is certain mandated warning lights. I am not a fan of the "drill a hole and stick one in" style of warning light, they can look a bit '70's boy racer if you're not careful. So I made this (sorry about the dust on it!)

It's a chunk of SS machined to shape with a smoked perspex front. Behind that (and bonded to it) ia a 0.004" brass sheet which has been acid etched for the logo's. This was done by drawing the logo's actual size and then getting a local print shop to laser print it. This gives an iron on mask for the etch.

The perspex and brass front is then held in with six aluminium vanes which divide the sections off. there is also a central bolt for assembly.
Behind this is a machined Delrin lamp holder which has six ba9s lamp holders in it. These have coloured led ba9 bulbs in them.

The end result is this. The slight unevenness around the logo's is only showing because of the size of the photo, in the flesh they cannot be seen.

 

[DAPPH]

Made another shelf in the gap above the wood storage rack:

View attachment 344562

It's made good use of an otherwise empty corner and provides an area to keep all the woodworking power tools and consumables in one place, subject to making some kind of flat storage divider for sandpaper.

And the empty shelf it's created will help in decluttering the benches.

Perhaps make a thin row of pigeon holes for the sand paper .
Put some blocks on the underside of the shelf with the black & decker on , in 20 mm wider holes than the sheets of sand paper ( remember to tale the width of theb batons into account ( guess howe \i know this ? )

. Say ech hole 30 mm wide x 40 mm deep, pre drill then glue & screw the batons to the shelf at the worked out distances to give that 20 mm clearance or so at the sides .

Cut up some larch ply the same depth as the shelf , cut out slots for the existing woodwork brackets etc and make finger slots in so the slot will be in the =middle of each pigeon hole sand all edges nice & smooth .
Now glue & screw on a section of the thin ply with the divider batons to suit the sheets of sand paper

Oh.... I forgot before you fix the ply cut some finger width slots to about half of the width of the ply , so that when you have a score of sand papers in upside down you can pull them out one at a time on your finger tip .

 

[mtt.tr]

This update is really a sub-project I have been tinkering with for a few weeks as and when I felt like it.
One of my projects is a Ford Pop I am building for Wifey. It's being built to pass the BIVA test and as such one of the requirements is certain mandated warning lights. I am not a fan of the "drill a hole and stick one in" style of warning light, they can look a bit '70's boy racer if you're not careful. So I made this (sorry about the dust on it!)
View attachment 344818
It's a chunk of SS machined to shape with a smoked perspex front. Behind that (and bonded to it) ia a 0.004" brass sheet which has been acid etched for the logo's. This was done by drawing the logo's actual size and then getting a local print shop to laser print it. This gives an iron on mask for the etch.
View attachment 344819
The perspex and brass front is then held in with six aluminium vanes which divide the sections off. there is also a central bolt for assembly.
Behind this is a machined Delrin lamp holder which has six ba9s lamp holders in it. These have coloured led ba9 bulbs in them.View attachment 344820
The end result is this. The slight unevenness around the logo's is only showing because of the size of the photo, in the flesh they cannot be seen.
View attachment 344821

This is superb

 

[KimB]

Any pictures of the roller gear , is it on toothed track to keep it parallel instead of likely to skew as you traverse along the length of the garage? One more question if I may , how long and wide is your garage are there any intermediate vertical supports along its length ?
Thanks
Dave

It’s just two bits of angle welded along the length of it. They have four wheels either side. Currently it does jam a bit bit mainly when it jams it catches the wall. So I’ve ordered some bearings cam follower bearings that I’m going to make into a couple guides.

The hoist trolley has a four guides which I’m going to mount some HDPE plastic onto. That’ll stop that moving side to side. Not that it jams.

Also the garage is constructed from four large UC arches. That’s what getting the load.

 

[prepman]

Finished off today and handed to the recipient, he’s going to use it for STEM , trying to get high school students interested in engineering:-)

It’s a Radne Raket 85cc go kart engine

View attachment 343979 View attachment 343980 View attachment 343981

Excellent work.....but I suspect fuel economy will be down some what?

 

[DAPPH]

Thanks Kim.
I'm slowly but surely clearing the foot print of the slightly bigger reinforced concrete slab for a 16 x 32 foot fibre glass panel shed ( one of the GRP enclosures that houses the road side gas or electricity sub-stations and other machinery that you need to keep people away from such as pumps & stand by genny's in holiday camps etc. I'd like to have some sort of hoist up to 500 kg across the 15' 6" internal width
Your idea using universal channel seems admirable so long as I have several vertical supports on each side braces well with 1/4 inch thick inverted triangular plates .

Getting the channels inside the perimeter on the floor slab before the construction take place seems a good idea .& needs yto be onsite well before the construction happens .

Thanks

 

[dyno-tron]

Excellent work.....but I suspect fuel economy will be down some what?

Thanks!
Don’t know about the economy as it wouldn’t start, I think it’s a bit down on compression

 

[brewdexta]

I've had a box of kreg mitre saw fence bits knocking about the workshop from a couple of Christmases ago, so decided to fit it.

First glue some scrap 2400mm long MDF together. This isn't essential for the fence, but I needed to pack it out for reasons that will become obvious later.

Next, drill and screw on the track.

Then drill it to accept some countersunk M5 bolts and tee nuts so it fixes to a 2m length of 2040 profile aluminium extrusion I had from a previous project. The fence is now located by two 20mm diameter posts that screw to the extrusion with t nuts and M5 knobs. This means the fence is easily aligned and can quickly be stowed above the table when I want to use the table for the track saw. I had to pack the fence out so the mitre saw lined up with the fence and still butted up the back of the partition.

After levelling the mitre saw table I double checked it all lines up.

The table is now drying after a couple of coats of smoothrite on the frame and some sealer on the top. Tomorrow I'll bolt the top down and screw the table to the bench before doing a final adjustment of the mitre saw, then bolt that down. Then just remains to fit the rule to the top of the fence.

I've got similar plans for the other side of the mitre saw but this needs to fold down

 

[DAPPH]

I been busy today knocking a few things off the TUIT list

One of the more annoying fiddly things was to replace the lock bolt on the kitchen door .
Not a difficult task I fitted six of them some 12 yrs ago , brought two four packs so we have spares of the same pattern , one failed a few months ago leaving Alison locked in the bedroom and me in the lounge . I eased off the door stop strip out with a wood chisel and using a long instrument 1/8 inch bladed screw driver was able to work the bolt back enough to open the door for her. Then changed the bar & bolt for a new one .

This morning the kitchen door lock died in a similar manner , the pivoted operating arm casting of monkey metal that brings the bolt backwards to allow the door to open has split at the opposite square hole corners . The door handles had always felt tight to open the door & I 'm not sure why other than bad face plate castings & finishes making both handles feel tight .

This time it was a sod to sort .
I had to make up a bent rod to catch the bolt carrier and bring it to the rear then the door opened .
I decided to use the last unused door set to replace everything .
Had all sorts of problems .. the actual bolt carrier and mounting plate were tight in the hole . I measured them , the carrier tube is 0.75 bigger in diameter than the original one , sorted that out with a 3/4 auger bit in the battery drill ... the old hole must have been 19 mm .
Found the face plate of the bolt carrier was 1.76 mm wider than the original one , so had to mark either side length and then carefully grind it back on each side as there was not enough wood left on either side to allow me to remove any more wood to fit it .. I found that the kitchen door is three mm thinner than the rest of the doors in the house .

This led to the old cut to size securing screws and caps being too long or too short . I discovered to my dismay that the thickness of the cast face plate on the new handles was 1.7 mm thinner than the original plates .
So I had to cut the fixing screws to length then do several trial fits to ensure the screws held the plated tightly to the door stile . That done I had a hell of a job trying to align the new cut to a shorter length securing screws & elongated cap nuts inside of he door behind the face plates .
Had a brain wave . slip th cap nut in some thin shrink wrap about 2 " long then put the face plate on the door and slip the shielded cap nut face plate hole so there was a few mm poking through the other face plate . Then it was a simple case of sliding the long ground to a point screw in the tube and pushing whilst turning the screwdriver till it took up the threads .... . it took seconds for each securing screw .

I wish I'd thought of this when I put the original handles on , for it took me ages & ages of painfull back ache to get the screws & caps aligned & screwed up .

Note the different length of the capped nuts and longer original screw , against the one I eventually managed to cut to the new length.
The thickness of the older pair of plates was amazing all came out the same set of handle packs

 

[DAPPH]

Second ROUND TUIT today was an irritating security screw deep down a plastic tube/hole ..too deep for the hex diameter of my Draper ..security tip screw driver set to get down and unscrew the darn thing . So I had a rummage in my " Might be handy one day" box and found a rod about five inches long that fitted in the hole perfectly .
Three minutes with a 4 inch angle grinder fitted with a 1.5 mm thin cut off blade and I've made a forked screw driver that works .. undid the last screw removed the broken switch & now have to wait for the replacement switch to come from China in mid June .

It's not pretty but it works & that's all I needed it to do .

 

[prepman]

WD40?

 

[prepman]

Added a bracket to hold my cylinder weighing spring balance. So don't have to hold it....all high tech now

Is it half full or half empty? Hmmmm.