Stuff you have made today

[henry Kadzielski]

Looking good @henry Kadzielski
Couple of questions though? Why are you using the lower amp consumables? I would have cut it at my max 80Amps and @ 5000mm/min.
Are you using G61, Exact Stop?

firstly good evening @Hood
Was always told that for the best cut to use the lowest amp consumables. That also means a lower gantry speed, which on my case means a lot less mass (gantry weight) being thrown around (gantry weighs and I'm only thinking over 200kg). This also reduces the 'Newton' effect (to every action there is an equal and oppsoite reaction) which in short makes the table shake . I can and have used the 65 amp consumables and we go much faster, but my above problems get worse. I have replaced a couple of Gecko drives and have roughly tuned them but they may need much better tuning so as not to get drives tripping and machine stopping on the very sudden direction changes. This can all be looked at a later stage, if we need to go faster to improve our production rate. At this stage we can mark and cut out one of these sheets in just over an hour. Our material handling needs to improve greatly and have a vaccume lifter coming with air tilt which will speed up loading and unloading for me and also make it possible for me to handle these big sheets by myself. The Nitrogen generator is supposed to arrive from Italy early June so that will also improve the surface finish of the alli during cutting.
It would seem that I am gearing up for more of this and you would be correct. It is much easier in the workshop cutting these bits for myself and others than climbing in small boat engine rooms. My hands are also much cleaner


Are you using G61? Well I have no idea what that is, can you enlighten me on this, every day is a learning day!

 

[Hood]

My gantry is obviously a good bit lighter than yours especially now it is a much smaller span, only 1.5m or so now, previously it was 3m. Not had any issues with it but fastest I have cut so far is 9 or 10m/min on thin(ish) stainless.

G61 is exact stop, it means that at the end of each line of code the axis decelerates to a stop before accelerating for the next. It looks like yours is doing that and that could be contributing to your issues with higher speed.

G64 is Constant Velocity and the axis don't come to a stop at each line of code so you get smoother motion. There is a drawback however, the slower the acceleration of your axis the more corner rounding you will get but as long as you have decent acceleration it should be fine.

Here was mine cutting some Alu the last day, this was at 5000mm/min I think.

 

[henry Kadzielski]

One thing that I did notice with cutting the alli plate is that on long runs, with my table, the alli when hot does deflect / bend / warp and can creep over the table subsequently cutting parts not to size. So far not a big problem but a problem nonetheless. I can see where a water table like you have would improve this issue. When cutting 'S' or when running back (direct reversing) on a cut or marked line is where I am having problems. After slowing down the acceleration it has cured this issue, well temporarily at least. I will have to investigate motor tuning / accelerations to fine tune this and get it better. At the moment there's not that much cutting to do so all is fine. If and when we need to speed up, I will look at it then, for now it's .

 

[Hood]

One thing that I did notice with cutting the alli plate is that on long runs, with my table, the alli when hot does deflect / bend / warp and can creep over the table subsequently cutting parts not to size. So far not a big problem but a problem nonetheless. I can see where a water table like you have would improve this issue. When cutting 'S' or when running back (direct reversing) on a cut or marked line is where I am having problems. After slowing down the acceleration it has cured this issue, well temporarily at least. I will have to investigate motor tuning / accelerations to fine tune this and get it better. At the moment there's not that much cutting to do so all is fine. If and when we need to speed up, I will look at it then, for now it's .

Aye, the slower you go the hotter it gets and the more it warps. I found that out when my TecArc was having issues, It was a slow degrading so I never really noticed until I clamped the leads and found it was dropping down to about 40 amps during progression of the cuts. I had been lowering the feed to compensate but I hadn't really realised until I looked back at old code and saw I had been quite a bit faster. Anyway with the slower feeds the warping was quite bad, always straightened itself out when cooled but could be problematic when cutting as occasionally it was that bad the torch would hit it as it passed over on its way to another start. When I got the Jasic and bumped up the speed the warping stopped and that was on the last table with downdraught.

To see if you are using Exact Stop or Constant Velocity look at your code and see if there is a G61 or a G64 in it, if neither have a look at the Gerneral Config page and see if it is set to Constant Vel or Exact Stop, see pic below.
If Exact stop then might be worth your while trying in Constant Velocity on a test piece to see the difference.

 

[henry Kadzielski]

Thanks for that @Hood. From memory it is set to constant velocity, but going home now with the terrorists and have to feed them pizza as that was the deal for them to be with me today and help, unload the table and move the cut up skeletons to the small truck to take to the scrap yard I will check tomorrow or on monday!

 

[Hood]

Your code can change it to one or the other but it will change back after a restart or it could be changed back by the code as well. So best looking in the code first to see if there is a G61 or G64 or both.
Opening the code in Notepad will let you quickly search via the Edit> Find option.

 

[Kram]

Would it be a good idea to attach LED strips to the welding helmet?
Or a headtorch? Did anybody try this? Would save me the time and disapointment maybe.

Edit, never mind this thread says it all:
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/welding-helmet-lamp.112061/

It made a massive difference for me. Back in October I bought the TIG, and it was dark at any hours I was awake enough to do welding, but it also helps to clean the lens more often..

I did intend this to be temporary andnthen add some LED strips but I doubt it would be much improvement, so I wont.

www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-made-today.67127/post-1680117

 

[Dr.Al]

Today I continued to imagine that my workshop is bigger than it actually is. This time by making a "fair weather bench". I'd been getting frustrated at the amount of faff involved in getting the trestles and a board out of the shed if I needed a bit more working space on sunny days. Also I'm never very happy with how rickety the trestles-and-board combination is. My trestles are relatively heavy duty (although I bought them more because they can be adjusted to be a comfortable height for a tall person, unlike most), but they're not exactly sturdy.

Anyway, today my bench got an extension. I cut some grooves in the bottom of the end of my bench and set some 30 × 30 × 2 mm box section into it with four steel clamps to hold it in place:

I then built a simple frame out of 25 × 25 × 2 mm box section and another one (for the legs) out of 20 × 20 × 2 mm box section. This frame slides (about 400 mm) into the box section fixed into the bench.

At the moment I haven't added a diagonal to hold the legs vertical as it doesn't seem to need it. The "hinge" is just an M8 bolt through both pieces with a nut either side of the top frame so that the leg section swings freely but the screw won't move:

I then added an 18 mm plywood top with some cut-outs (held in place with a load of M5 CSK screws):

The cut-outs nearest the existing bench are to hold it in place:

The ones at the back are for wheels...

... which make it easy to slide down the back of my drawer cabinet when not in use:

I guess that's another one for the ever growing list of "welded box section things that I must get round to painting at some point".

 

[RichardM]

Finished making new link pipe for the bike.

 

[Wedg1e]

Can you guess what it is yet?

 

[MattF]

A diagram.

 

[Moose McAlpine]

the hydraulic tappets on my car are getting a bit noisy so I decided that I'd give cleaning them a go. getting the middle bit out seems to end up with you getting a sore hand from bashing the tappet down against something and hoping it falls out. I was struggling to get 3 out this way so made one of the worlds simplest tools........a wooden stick

cut a flat bottomed hole in a piece of wood a couple of ft long so that the tappet can held in it and the cut the piece of wood so that you can clamp the tappet in place with a couple of studs and some nuts.

and it worked first hit without getting a sore hand, and because the piece of wood give me more hitting force as the end will travel faster than my hand, it makes the job easier but also split the wood too by the studs......just wish I'd thought of this earlier today.

View attachment 287541

View attachment 287540

View attachment 287542

You can usually remove them with an airline/blowgun, but i did once fire one across the workshop doing that. Took a while to find it!

 

[DAPPH]

Today I continued to imagine that my workshop is bigger than it actually is. This time by making a "fair weather bench". I'd been getting frustrated at the amount of faff involved in getting the trestles and a board out of the shed if I needed a bit more working space on sunny days. Also I'm never very happy with how rickety the trestles-and-board combination is. My trestles are relatively heavy duty (although I bought them more because they can be adjusted to be a comfortable height for a tall person, unlike most), but they're not exactly sturdy.

Anyway, today my bench got an extension. I cut some grooves in the bottom of the end of my bench and set some 30 × 30 × 2 mm box section into it with four steel clamps to hold it in place:

View attachment 287708

I then built a simple frame out of 25 × 25 × 2 mm box section and another one (for the legs) out of 20 × 20 × 2 mm box section. This frame slides (about 400 mm) into the box section fixed into the bench.

View attachment 287710

At the moment I haven't added a diagonal to hold the legs vertical as it doesn't seem to need it. The "hinge" is just an M8 bolt through both pieces with a nut either side of the top frame so that the leg section swings freely but the screw won't move:

View attachment 287712

I then added an 18 mm plywood top with some cut-outs (held in place with a load of M5 CSK screws):

View attachment 287713

The cut-outs nearest the existing bench are to hold it in place:

View attachment 287714

The ones at the back are for wheels...

View attachment 287716

... which make it easy to slide down the back of my drawer cabinet when not in use:

View attachment 287717

I guess that's another one for the ever growing list of "welded box section things that I must get round to painting at some point".

Until I saw the clamp I thought you were going to hinge the top as a flap so when you push the extendable support in it just hung down and blanked off the view of the bin.

 

[selectedgrub]

Front of clock.

 

[Kram]

Cant do much I have no space to work in the shed! Tidied up a bit then made a crude hanging tab for the grinder, drilled, tapped m4 and epoxied it on.

Its been annoying me for 2 years that I had no way to hang it!

 

[Ross365]

A "dog kennel" for my compressor. It means I can relocate the compressor and have a much-reduced length of pipe between that and my grit blasting cabinet.

 

[Melvyn Best]

A "dog kennel" for my compressor. It means I can relocate the compressor and have a much-reduced length of pipe between that and my grit blasting cabinet.

I hope you have installed plenty of ventilation, compressors overheat if there’s not enough air for cooling

 

[Dr.Al]

Until I saw the clamp I thought you were going to hinge the top as a flap so when you push the extendable support in it just hung down and blanked off the view of the bin.

The thought had occurred to me (as it would have been quicker to install and remove if it was just a case of flapping it up and down), but it would have involved a huge amount of work as I would have had to make the bench shorter, which would have involved moving the drawer on the end, which would have involved moving the bench leg, which would have involved moving the vice, which would... well, you get the idea. The bench goes right up to the door so that the roller shutter passes it with about 10 mm clearance.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Can you guess what it is yet?

A 'doohicky' for carrying the office Staff's coffee? [some take medium, others large... ]

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Despite loosing a few hours yesterday, not a good day.

I have managed to finish yesterdays fun work.

This German storm lantern was acquired the other day, it is only 10" high.

I did have the box, but it was so far gone to be saved.



The wick had gone rotten, but there was a spare, the glass cleaned up well with vinegar and newspaper.




This shows are far the paint had been affected. But a clean up with wax/oil mix has restored the shine.




In flame for the first time.

A fun restoration.
Like this one below.



Double headed adjustable spanner, but this one was seized. But it does have a WD stamp and 1943 date.




In Bits, lots of heat and force. The knurled section is item that should make it adjustable, But that and the half flat thread was filled with what looked like 2 pack glue.




So it was boiled in hot citric acid to de-rust it. Then through a 3 stage blackening kit.