Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[bigegg]

For vertical surfaces, there's also the "honeycomb wall system".
Not as secure as MB, but prints a lot faster.


You could also go with a piece of weldmesh, and either print holders, use a "molle" system, or just use bits of twisted wire.

 

[ukracer]

Over lunch I had a bit more of a look at the multiboard system. It definitely looks interesting, although the website is one of these irritating ones where, rather than writing three sentences explaining the principles (e.g. the differences between "multiboard", "multibin" and "multipoint") they give you three 25 minute videos to watch. Winds me up something proper that!

I've got a rather shabby pegboard at the end of the workshop and I've been pondering replacing it with something (perhaps just a bit of OSB with some nails in). Out of curiosity, I used the "multiboard planner" thing on the website to tell me what I'd need to print to get the basic grid for that space. According to Prusaslicer, it would take about 220 hours of printing time to print all the required bits (in lots of separate jobs, so the elapsed time would be a lot longer)! I might stick with OSB...

That's why I had not looked into multiboard plus the fact I am short of wall space anywhere. lol

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "10 hour prints go to days". Is that to do with the slicer not giving accurate predictions? I've got the Prusa i3 mk3s (which is a lot slower than their newer versions apparently). Some prints do take a long time (I think the longest I've done was more than a day but less than two), but the slicer predictions are very good - it usually finishes within a few minutes of the prediction.

I use cura on the enders and it does underestimate. But it's worse than that.
if I use Bambu Studio a cube for example might be 10 hours on standard speed using the X1C, but the same model might say 2 days 4 hours when slicing in cura for the Ender 3 max.

I've never really been tempted to sell 3D printed stuff, so I can't really comment on costs. Someone on the ukworkshop forum contacted me the other day asking if I'd print and sell some of my dovetail saw jigs for him, but I turned him down (and pointed him towards the various online print-to-order services). I can't imagine the hassle is worth the (probably small) profit.

That's what it actually looks like now I have purchased the files. I could have purchased them cheaper for hobby use but me being impulsive decided to go for the commercial version.

 

[Dr.Al]

I think a single "8x8" tile (about 220mm square) takes about two hours.

I think your printer is probably a lot quicker than mine! Admittedly I didn't spend any time fiddling with the settings, just imported the STL and left it on the settings I usually use (apart from turning off the skirt as it wouldn't fit on the bed otherwise). One 8x8 "core tile" (about 220 mm square) would take 8½ hours on my printer (on the "0.2mm QUALITY" preset).

With similar settings (0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm nozzle) the newer version of mine (MK4S vs MK3S) would do it in 3¾ hours

 

[bigegg]

I think your printer is probably a lot quicker than mine! Admittedly I didn't spend any time fiddling with the settings, just imported the STL and left it on the settings I usually use (apart from turning off the skirt as it wouldn't fit on the bed otherwise). One 8x8 "core tile" (about 220 mm square) would take 8½ hours on my printer (on the "0.2mm QUALITY" preset).

With similar settings (0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm nozzle) the newer version of mine (MK4S vs MK3S) would do it in 3¾ hours

I've just checked my print history:
3 hours for a 8x8 tile at .16

In comparison, 2hrs 14mins for a "honeycomb wall system" panel of around the same size.

Gridfinity, 49 minutes (on .28 layer height)

 

[m_c]

I simply fail to see where there is profit in selling this stuff when you add all expenses on.

There's a reasonable profit to be made at those prices.
I know exactly what each item I produce costs, and I make a big enough margin to make it worthwhile.
I'm certainly not producing anywhere near as much as I could due to various reasons, but my 3D printing side line ticks over.

 

[ukracer]

There's a reasonable profit to be made at those prices.
I know exactly what each item I produce costs, and I make a big enough margin to make it worthwhile.
I'm certainly not producing anywhere near as much as I could due to various reasons, but my 3D printing side line ticks over.

I sort of get the idea that it's happening whilst you are working or sleeping.
I guess you are right about profit at those prices , but I am not sure how many consumers will actually pay those prices.

As an aside what's your formula for estimating costs per item?

 

[bigegg]

It's not a doll, it's an "Action Figure"

Dummy-13 posable mannequin for my arty Grand-daughter.

Printed at 100% but the hip joint broke. So printed at 200% in PETG

 

[Dr.Al]

Printed at 100% but the hip joint broke. So printed at 200% in PETG

What do those percentages mean? When I read 100%, I assumed you meant infill (which I normally do at 15% but occasionally turn up to 100% for very small parts that need to be super strong), but I can't see how you could have 200% infill!

 

[ukracer]

What do those percentages mean? When I read 100%, I assumed you meant infill (which I normally do at 15% but occasionally turn up to 100% for very small parts that need to be super strong), but I can't see how you could have 200% infill!

My guess is he means total size of model. Larger models will have a larger hip.joint and there is always a point where the size is so small it is going to break whatever material is used.

 

[ukracer]

It's not a doll, it's an "Action Figure"

Dummy-13 posable mannequin for my arty Grand-daughter.

Printed at 100% but the hip joint broke. So printed at 200% in PETG

View attachment 485453

You got the link handy?

 

[Dr.Al]

My guess is he means total size of model. Larger models will have a larger hip.joint and there is always a point where the size is so small it is going to break whatever material is used.

Ah, that makes sense, thanks.

 

[bigegg]

What do those percentages mean? When I read 100%, I assumed you meant infill (which I normally do at 15% but occasionally turn up to 100% for very small parts that need to be super strong), but I can't see how you could have 200% infill!

Scaled up to 200% overall.
There are a LOT of "accessories" for the model -they all need to be scaled identically so they will fit.

 

[bigegg]

You got the link handy?

Dummy 13 - version 1.0! by soozafone | Download free STL model | Printables.com

We're finally out of beta! Your favorite printable action figure is now better than ever. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

a search on printables for "dummy 13" will bring up a LOT of hits, but this is the original design(er), and the latest official version

 

[bigegg]

My guess is he means total size of model. Larger models will have a larger hip.joint and there is always a point where the size is so small it is going to break whatever material is used.

Its more the material, and more importantly the settings. It needs 3 wall layers, and 25%+ infill for the "frame" (skeleton) IMO - at least on my p1s, using cheapo PETG, even at 200%

 

[bigegg]

Made a "double wide" block for my modular server rack/drawer system.
And an adaptor, so 19" rack equipment can be used in a double-wide rack

 

[Onoff]

Not made yet but...

4.6M views · 7.6K reactions | Checking the counter the next morning to see how many beers you drank : 3dprint_dnepr | UNILAD Tech

Checking the counter the next morning to see how many beers you drank : 3dprint_dnepr.

www.facebook.com

 

[ukracer]

Not made yet but...

4.6M views · 7.6K reactions | Checking the counter the next morning to see how many beers you drank : 3dprint_dnepr | UNILAD Tech

Checking the counter the next morning to see how many beers you drank : 3dprint_dnepr.

www.facebook.com

I have seen a lot of these shorts with cracking models in them but no links to get them or buy them.

 

[Onoff]

I have seen a lot of these shorts with cracking models in them but no links to get them or buy them.

Here you go:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/89566#profileId-189882

 

[Prajna]

That's why I had not looked into multiboard plus the fact I am short of wall space anywhere. lol

I use cura on the enders and it does underestimate. But it's worse than that.
if I use Bambu Studio a cube for example might be 10 hours on standard speed using the X1C, but the same model might say 2 days 4 hours when slicing in cura for the Ender 3 max.


That's what it actually looks like now I have purchased the files. I could have purchased them cheaper for hobby use but me being impulsive decided to go for the commercial version.

You may be better off using Orca rather than Cura on the Enders. It seems that some of the settings in the Ender profiles in Cura are very conservative (for the V3KE anyway) and the time estimated don't seem to be very accurate in Cura. Also wireless printing is easier to set up in Orca.