That is the thing I hear peple tweaking the printers all the time and making mods to them.
Yes, I just feed the second reel in behind the first.... Bit more scary with flex filament.Has anyone on here ever printed something that took more than a reel of filament? Sounds a bit scary with the transition from one reel to the next.
Text works best if it's cut in to the surface - you can get the text coloured by changing filament when it comes to do the text layers
Yes, I just feed the second reel in behind the first.... Bit more scary with flex filament.
personally I'd break that down into smaller parts.
Correct but if it's running low and you're not going to be about just snip it and feed the new reel in...then when that's finished back to the original.Presumably that depends on your being around when the filament change is required (and it not happening at 3am for example)?
I'm surprised at that to be honest. I've done text cut in on the inside of the drawers as I didn't want it sticking up, but the things I've printed (mostly stuff downloaded off the web) with text cut into the surface looked a bit pants, whereas the one I did with embossed text (this thing: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/110102-holder-for-t-handle-hex-allen-keys-with-tapered-he) looked really good.Text works best if it's cut in to the surface - you can get the text coloured by changing filament when it comes to do the text layers
Ah! Good idea.Correct but if it's running low and you're not going to be about just snip it and feed the new reel in...then when that's finished back to the original.
I only cut it in 1 or 2 layers and if you've got good first layer control and a nice textured bed print it face downI'll see what the slicer makes of the "GAUGES" text if I cut it into the surface.
The problem is how to do it without making it weak. I'll have a ponder.personally I'd break that down into smaller parts.
I'll do some experimenting. One other option is to use a finer nozzle (0.25 mm instead of 0.4 mm):I only cut it in 1 or 2 layers and if you've got good first layer control and a nice textured bed print it face down
No. I have sets of drill bits in 0.1 mm increments and its generally easier to grab the right one from the set rather than having them stored with the taps. I'd have to keep a second set of drill bits as it would be frustrating needing a 5 mm hole and realising you have to dig in the tap drawers just because it happens to be the right size for M6.Are you going to have the correct tapping drill in with each size also?
That is because we want to, rather than have too. It's part of the quest for quality / different materials and fun for some of us. If you just want to knock out some PLA items, then it is mostly plug in, level the bed and off you go.That is the thing I hear peple tweaking the printers all the time and making mods to them.
Also, the correct tapping size isn't always the same - it depends on whether you're doing a standard 75% engagement thread, or something a bit looser in a stubborn material (bigger drill), or using a fluteless tap etc.No. I have sets of drill bits in 0.1 mm increments and its generally easier to grab the right one from the set rather than having them stored with the taps. I'd have to keep a second set of drill bits as it would be frustrating needing a 5 mm hole and realising you have to dig in the tap drawers just because it happens to be the right size for M6.