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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I'm going to have another go. This time I'll Dremel off the galvanising from the inside of the cowl. What I found when welding was that it'd seem to be going fine then I'd hit like a pocket of "gas" and a bit of the cowl would hole/disappear. Pushing forward with the torch seemed to work, starting on the thick tube then edging the molten pool up to the thinner cowl material to fuse it.
Someone suggested trying 0.8mm wire might be easier?
Someone suggested trying 0.8mm wire might be easier?
JMS1972
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Do it as a series of spot welds with a big gap between each? Use an air line to cool the metal between welds....
I know nothing mind... I read it in a book....
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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Looking good 
bodywork is always a tough one, rarely you can run a proper bead on it unless you have a super smooth welding machine and some decent thickness of sheet.
Those test runs all look better than some "welding" that passes MOT ok...!
Your wirespeed is infinitely variable (or close to). Amps are related to wire speed, so in effect, most MIG sets with a variable wirespeed therefore also have variable amps.
The voltage is on fixed steps on your machine, it's less important than wirespeed. On bigger machines you'll use voltage to set the bead profile and tune out spatter on continuous runs. On smaller machines, you just have to use "what works".
More important than voltage steps is a smooth constant voltage output, especially at low amps for bodywork. This is where you'd really see any difference between a top-end machine and a cheaper one.
Having said all that, what you're doing is all good, the welder works OK and you're getting practice in now
When it pops and blows back, its generally either loss of gas shield (wind) or some rust/crap on the material. ALWAYS get the material as clean and back to shiny bare metal as you possibly can. Grinders and Flap discs are your friend...
bodywork is always a tough one, rarely you can run a proper bead on it unless you have a super smooth welding machine and some decent thickness of sheet.Those test runs all look better than some "welding" that passes MOT ok...!
Your wirespeed is infinitely variable (or close to). Amps are related to wire speed, so in effect, most MIG sets with a variable wirespeed therefore also have variable amps.
The voltage is on fixed steps on your machine, it's less important than wirespeed. On bigger machines you'll use voltage to set the bead profile and tune out spatter on continuous runs. On smaller machines, you just have to use "what works".
More important than voltage steps is a smooth constant voltage output, especially at low amps for bodywork. This is where you'd really see any difference between a top-end machine and a cheaper one.
Having said all that, what you're doing is all good, the welder works OK and you're getting practice in now
When it pops and blows back, its generally either loss of gas shield (wind) or some rust/crap on the material. ALWAYS get the material as clean and back to shiny bare metal as you possibly can. Grinders and Flap discs are your friend...
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,625
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Do it as a series of spot welds with a big gap between each? Use an air line to cool the metal between welds....
I know nothing mind... I read it in a book....
That was the plan. A proper pita having no specific, secure, covered workspace. Having to first fetch the welder, then the bottle now the compressor all onto the patio. You're always hoping it doesn't rain then having to put it all away again after.
JMS1972
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You need a shed
thats how it starts! he will be looking at lathes and in his household fuse box to see if he can eeek 3 phase out of itYou need a shed
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Can I add an ammeter to my Clarke 130TE? Presumably that wants to be DC and fitted somewhere on the feed to the torch?
The circuit diagram:
I read people saying "That should go down to 25A etc" ref other, better welders. I'd just like to know what mine is doing when I weld.
Something like this perhaps?
[£5.20 43% OFF]0.56" Blue Red Dual LED Display Mini Digital Voltmeter Ammeter DC 100V 100A Panel Amp Volt Voltage Current Meter Tester Electronic Accessories & Supplies from Electronic Components & Supplies on banggood
Thanks.
The circuit diagram:
I read people saying "That should go down to 25A etc" ref other, better welders. I'd just like to know what mine is doing when I weld.
Something like this perhaps?
[£5.20 43% OFF]0.56" Blue Red Dual LED Display Mini Digital Voltmeter Ammeter DC 100V 100A Panel Amp Volt Voltage Current Meter Tester Electronic Accessories & Supplies from Electronic Components & Supplies on banggood
Thanks.
JMS1972
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100A might work but you're going to need someone else to watch it when you are welding. Also won't cover the full range of the welder which is 130Amps I assume.
I've just ordered a 50A for my diesel heater from China. Delivery date is February next year!
I've just ordered a 50A for my diesel heater from China. Delivery date is February next year!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,625
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
100A might work but you're going to need someone else to watch it when you are welding. Also won't cover the full range of the welder which is 130Amps I assume.
I've just ordered a 50A for my diesel heater from China. Delivery date is February next year!
Noted. I meant something "like" the link. It was the first one I found.
