Testing an Auto-Darkening Welding Mask

[eSCHEn]

Sometimes you'd like to test your mask but you haven't got a handy bright light to trigger it. Here's a method using something most people have around about the place.


Testing a Mask

What you'll need to test your helmet is a remote control. It doesn't matter if it's from your TV, VCR, HiFi or anything else. All it needs to do is produce an IR signal.
Any of these will do

Set up your mask how you'd like and then look through it as usual. Aim the remote control at your face and press a few buttons. Your mask should go into its dark state and stay there whilst you hold a button down. If you get nothing at all then try increasing the mask's sensitivity as high as it will go. If you still get no joy then you should test the remote control is working - see the next section.

It's worth mentioning that remote controls don't send a constant stream of IR. It's a pulsed signal so if the remote control's pulses are slow and your mask's delay is set very low then you /might/ get flickering as the mask jumps in and out of its dark state. If this happens then try turning the delay up and re-test.


Testing the Tester

You can test that the remote control is actually working by aiming it at a digital camera when you're looking through the camera's screen (the optical viewfinder won't work). The IR from the remote control makes a pinky/purple light on the screen. That way you know it's working.
Don't look too long or you'll end up in another dimension!

Glossary

• Sensitivity: How much light is needed to trigger the mask into its dark state. LOW sensitivity means it requires comparatively LARGE amounts of light to trigger the change. HIGH sensitivity means only a SMALL amount of light is needed to go dark.

• Shade: When the mask it in its dark state this number tells you how dark that is. The larger the number the darker the shade. Shade 9 to 13 is a common range that most auto-darkening masks will adjust to.

• Delay: Once the light from the arc stops then this is how long it takes to revert back to the light state on the mask. If you're welding something at a high power then it's likely to glow and be too bright too look at straight after welding. In this case you increase the delay and the extra time it takes the mask to go into its light state allows the material to dim enough to not be uncomfortable when you get back into the light state.

• Grind Mode: Not all masks have this feature but those that do have a switch on them that allows the auto-darkening sensors to be disconnected temporarily. This means that when you're in grind mode the mask will not darken and stays in its light state. Usually this is about shade five and it means you can flick a switch to do a bit of grinding then flick it back and weld again without needing to change mask.

 

[gaz1]

I gather the mrs dosnt hog the remote control all the time as its a swine to get that remote control off of her even when its your turn for the tv always stuck down her side

or somehow it gets lost when you want to find it

 

[Richard.]

Sometimes you'd like to test your mask but you haven't got a handy bright light to trigger it. Here's a method using something most people have around about the place.


Testing a Mask

What you'll need to test your helmet is a remote control. It doesn't matter if it's from your TV, VCR, HiFi or anything else. All it needs to do is produce an IR signal.
View attachment 89814Any of these will do

Set up your mask how you'd like and then look through it as usual. Aim the remote control at your face and press a few buttons. Your mask should go into its dark state and stay there whilst you hold a button down. If you get nothing at all then try increasing the mask's sensitivity as high as it will go. If you still get no joy then you should test the remote control is working - see the next section.

It's worth mentioning that remote controls don't send a constant stream of IR. It's a pulsed signal so if the remote control's pulses are slow and your mask's delay is set very low then you /might/ get flickering as the mask jumps in and out of its dark state. If this happens then try turning the delay up and re-test.


Testing the Tester

You can test that the remote control is actually working by aiming it at a digital camera when you're looking through the camera's screen (the optical viewfinder won't work). The IR from the remote control makes a pinky/purple light on the screen. That way you know it's working.
View attachment 89813Don't look too long or you'll end up in another dimension!

Glossary

• Sensitivity: How much light is needed to trigger the mask into its dark state. LOW sensitivity means it requires comparatively LARGE amounts of light to trigger the change. HIGH sensitivity means only a SMALL amount of light is needed to go dark.

• Shade: When the mask it in its dark state this number tells you how dark that is. The larger the number the darker the shade. Shade 9 to 13 is a common range that most auto-darkening masks will adjust to.

• Delay: Once the light from the arc stops then this is how long it takes to revert back to the light state on the mask. If you're welding something at a high power then it's likely to glow and be too bright too look at straight after welding. In this case you increase the delay and the extra time it takes the mask to go into its light state allows the material to dim enough to not be uncomfortable when you get back into the light state.

• Grind Mode: Not all masks have this feature but those that do have a switch on them that allows the auto-darkening sensors to be disconnected temporarily. This means that when you're in grind mode the mask will not darken and stays in its light state. Usually this is about shade five and it means you can flick a switch to do a bit of grinding then flick it back and weld again without needing to change mask.

Nice interesting bit of reading there D.
I'm probably more inclinded to throw a welding mask away if an arc doesn't switch it dark rather than the tv remote but there are a lot of facts in that post I didn't know so I'm a wiser man.

 

[eSCHEn]

Nice interesting bit of reading there D.
I'm probably more inclinded to throw a welding mask away if an arc doesn't switch it dark rather than the tv remote but there are a lot of facts in that post I didn't know so I'm a wiser man.

Thanks mate. It was mainly because there's a lot of people who post with problems with their mask flickering. This way at least gives you a consistent way of triggering the mask with something most people have a multitude of

 

[Richard.]

Thanks mate. It was mainly because there's a lot of people who post with problems with their mask flickering. This way at least gives you a consistent way of triggering the mask with something most people have a multitude of

She's going bazerk
All the tv remotes are missing from the house

 

[eSCHEn]

 

[Richard.]

Mask-check
Chipping hammer-check
Wire brush - check
Electrodes- check.

Can ya see where I'm going with this D.

 

[normspanners]

Just try welding, if you cant see after,--------- it's definitely not working just to be on safe side just use one eye

 

[daleyd]

Just try welding, if you cant see after,--------- it's definitely not working just to be on safe side just use one eye

You weren't a Vulcan pilot in a former life norm ??

 

[normspanners]

No but have done several night rallies if you see loads of spectators, best close one eye then when you get camera flashed you can open the other, hair pins are the worse one classic is the ford on worlds end by llangollen has a bank right in front of you as you hit the water it is a great place to get an action shot ALL- ways speccies on the bank and you get met with 20 flashes going off.

 

[t25]

Excellent post, just tried this out on my new welding helmet

 

[nickk]

saw a bloke on a spanish building site welding with one arm over his eyes….maybe he'd binned his mask….or….maybe thats his style.

 

[Kent]

Reminds me I must sort out a spare old school nodding mask

 

[Pete1961]

Brilliant bit of info, thanks, I just bought a Leopard helmet off ebay seller glenparva. The poorly packaged state of the box it came in - just put in a soft plastic bag! gave me doubts. I made tests as above all seems OK. The instructions are very vague so explanation of sensitivity & delay saved me asking. I do see just the darkening shade bit also for sale @ £8 - Would this fit a traditional old school mask of perhaps better build quality?

 

[caprinut]

Wouldn't buy anything off fleabay safety related!.

Bert

 

[pedrobedro]

I do see just the darkening shade bit also for sale @ £8 - Would this fit a traditional old school mask of perhaps better build quality?

I bought one from Amazon with replaceable batteries when my SWP packed up and it has worked fine for a couple of years now. I had to make the hole for the control knob a bit bigger.

 

[Dozzer]

Have found by accident another way to test self darkening helmets.
Some handheld LED Worklights set them off.
every Scangrip LED work light i have triggers the sensors on my Parweld and GYS!!

 

[Yaka]

brillant info just got into welding with my eldest, was wondering what is a good way to test the helmets.

 

[JOEPRO]

brillant info just got into welding with my eldest, was wondering what is a good way to test the helmets.

Hi there, best way to test without blinding yourself is to use the IR method in post #1

Indeed any IR signal should work. I tested my Mercedes remote key fob and it activates my ESAB welding helmet perfectly.