Thats torn it

[Ruffian]

mine runs an old android phone... i can turn off the power by remotly turning the torch on the phone on
i use an ap called alfred
have wired a light dependant resistor to sense the light and drop out a relay

Got a 16ch hikvision nvr linked around the house and garage already with only 6ch being used so far.
Putting a 5mp camera into the camera enclosure also means that it's accessible through my security app/live view.

As for running the printer it's still manual controls.
But am looking at either upgrading the hotend and other bits or just replacing the whole printer.

 

[Anguz]

i also run a hikvision 16 ch... but not for the printer... have you worked out if you can control any of the alarm outputs on the recorder via the phone ap ?
if you can i would be interested to know how

 

[Ruffian]

i also run a hikvision 16 ch... but not for the printer... have you worked out if you can control any of the alarm outputs on the recorder via the phone ap ?
if you can i would be interested to know how

Not messed about too much with that as due to house being on a proper "pinch point" have motion detection and alerts set up for that.
Was going to look into alarm outputs at some point but haven't as of yet.

P.s. which app are you running as was using hilook and now gone over to hikvision connect.

 

[Anguz]

Hikvision connect

 

[Anguz]

My fix seems to have worked so far.. this is in petg
Virtually no strings compared to what I was getting

 

[m_c]

Just seen this thread.

That's why I ditched my MicroSwiss hotend. Leaky POS. I'd much rather run the standard Creality hotend.

 

[Anguz]

my hotend is creality

 

[m_c]

So it is.
Only noticed the grubscrew earlier, not the two bolts.

Slacken the grubscrew, turn the hotend on, then check the heatbreak is still tight in the hotend. Nip up grubscrew, and check the two bolts are still tight.
That'll make sure any stray plastic is squeezed out on the heatbreak side.
Then with it still hot, tighten the nozzle in.