angellonewolf
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^^^^^would the arms be the problem if there more extended on one side rather than the other it would tip the wood enought for it to be out of square
- Thread starter Screwdriver
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WorkshopChris
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They are ok but have little accuracy for a true cut, i have looked at a few over the years but the portable ones all suffer the same problems.
You are relying on pushing the sheet across the bearings for the horizontal cut and no sheet has perfectly smooth sides(excluding a edge banding panel).
For the vertical cut you are relying on the plastic wheels following the tube, they need some play to work.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/safety-speed-c4-panel-saw-110067
The Axminster one has issues with the spacing to the bearings so you get movements as the sheet progresses, to the point you can even see the sheet move on the horizontal cut in the promotional video on the product web page.
https://www.verticalpanelsaw.co.uk/zapkut-range/zapkut-zk/#
This offering the Zapkut has similar issues i looked at one at Woodmex a while back but just couldn't see the chance of an accurate cut either, its nice and portable for a odd site job, but its not a space saving replacement for a good table saw.
For them to work well the material needs to stay put and the saw to smoothly move around on accurate runners and bearings.
You are relying on pushing the sheet across the bearings for the horizontal cut and no sheet has perfectly smooth sides(excluding a edge banding panel).
For the vertical cut you are relying on the plastic wheels following the tube, they need some play to work.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/safety-speed-c4-panel-saw-110067
The Axminster one has issues with the spacing to the bearings so you get movements as the sheet progresses, to the point you can even see the sheet move on the horizontal cut in the promotional video on the product web page.
https://www.verticalpanelsaw.co.uk/zapkut-range/zapkut-zk/#
This offering the Zapkut has similar issues i looked at one at Woodmex a while back but just couldn't see the chance of an accurate cut either, its nice and portable for a odd site job, but its not a space saving replacement for a good table saw.
For them to work well the material needs to stay put and the saw to smoothly move around on accurate runners and bearings.
chris pruteanu
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Its actually a neat design, would you consider selling it ?
Screwdriver
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Interesting thanks. I think I can dial in the accuracy needed for say workshop shelving, boxes, drawers etc which I am planning on making. The possibility of consistent repeat cuts is very appealing since those sorts of storage items always demand such a vast number of similar panels.
As for movement, well it's not inconceivable I could use a full sheet at the rear as a jig, fix that securely to the frame and fix the workpiece to that with "perfect" accuracy. Adjust the depth of cut to just nick the rear support. The "roller bushings" have turned out incredibly well. I am surprised how little play there is and I can adjust them with those opposing nuts to within thousandths, the only question being how long the adjustment will stay "true" before they need adjusting again. There's a lot more flex in the little circular saw for example and again, I am pretty sure I can find some way to make that item fit a little more rigidly.
The primary consideration is space. Horizontal space. Because if you're not holding it near vertical, it has to fit on a table, all eight feet of it and that demands a fair bit of room in itself, never mind the effort of lifting a panel onto it. With this I can just slide it into place on edge.
I think a lot of the current inaccuracy is due to the ground not being flat where I tested it and I wasn't that careful with it either.
No I don't think so, it owes me next to nothing, had a few days fun tweaking it and I may even see if I can fit an angle grinder to it. Meantime it is going to be amazingly useful for sorting out my flypress tooling which needs dedicated storage drawers/units making up.
WorkshopChris
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When the saw is in the frame does it pivot easily so you can alter the depth of cut?
With most ply you will get a better cut if you can first score/cut the first veneer layer then run through again at you full cutting depth.
With most ply you will get a better cut if you can first score/cut the first veneer layer then run through again at you full cutting depth.
Screwdriver
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bloody hell, how to over engineer a solution to a non existent problem!
plunge saw, rail and some trestles 1000s of joiners cant be wrong.
Well I don't have a plunge saw and I am tired of lifting 8x4 sheets onto trestles where I usually have to cut them by hand. I could detach those rails and use them with the included little Bosch saw but I'd still have to wrestle 8x4 sheets onto a table, fiddle about setting it up then fiddle about setting everything up all over again for the next cut. I am not saying they are wrong and I am not a joiner. The problem of flex in the design did exist and now it does not.
I don't know what your problem is here, I'm just having a bit of fun with some random kit off eBay that was so cheap it was almost free.
Yes thanks I could have a play with that. It is a bottom of the range circ saw though and the depth/angle adjustment is a flimsy plastic and pressed steel affair.
Sean
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No problem with you having a bit of fun, just looked like a horrendously complex thing
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Yup.bloody hell, how to over engineer a solution to a non existent problem!
plunge saw, rail and some trestles 1000s of joiners cant be wrong.
Parallel guides and repeatable cuts are a doddle.
Usually grab a bit of solid insulation to use as a cut board and work on the floor.
https://www.woodpeck.com/pgs.html
Screwdriver
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I wasn't going to argue at the price though I'm slightly disappointed it's too late to enter it into robot wars.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Ehh.Trestles aren't fool proof either.
While cutting 6 x 4 ply for garage doors, got about 300mm in and cut got harder, yep I'd gone half way through trestle with circular saw. THEN did exactly same at the other end on the other trestle
Set the blade depth just a fraction deeper than the material to be cut.
All my trestles have sacrificial timber on top anyway just in case.
