I think you have already found the problem but you now need find the cause...it's the machine.... (sounds like a gas related gas issue reading what others have said.)
- Thread starter Noods
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You need the Tungsten ground to a point, to my mind that's a lot of heat in that weld as shown by the large HAZ.
Without a point, it is very difficult to maintain a stable Arc and consequently a stable Arc length (Which puts loads of heat in and gives you a heat zone like the one you have)
Without a point, it is very difficult to maintain a stable Arc and consequently a stable Arc length (Which puts loads of heat in and gives you a heat zone like the one you have)
AndersK
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Two comments about your tunhsten picture.
The middle looks like you have been running reverse polarity ( torch to positive). Looks to clean to be balled by dipping or touched by filler rod.
The black color of the tungsten I would doubt is anything but a gas issue.
If you just hit the trigger pointing in the air, how long does the gas flow after you release? Depending on current and tungsten size you need at least 5 sec of post flow to keep the rod shiny.
When initiating the arc, can you hear the gas before the arc starts?
Try purging the line before starting the arc to see if it helps
The middle looks like you have been running reverse polarity ( torch to positive). Looks to clean to be balled by dipping or touched by filler rod.
The black color of the tungsten I would doubt is anything but a gas issue.
If you just hit the trigger pointing in the air, how long does the gas flow after you release? Depending on current and tungsten size you need at least 5 sec of post flow to keep the rod shiny.
When initiating the arc, can you hear the gas before the arc starts?
Try purging the line before starting the arc to see if it helps
Noods
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I think I might have found at least one issue.. Been grinding my tungsten on general purpose course bench grinder wheel.. I changed the wheel today to a new one.. Instantly that improved things..
Noods
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I tried changing over the pos and neg leads .. eg torch and earth lead.. I'm no sparky either.. But A/ they were awkward to physically fit.. And B/ as soon as I put the tip of the torch anyway near the work surface it arced itself destroying the end of the tungsten..
Richard.
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Yep that's exactly what will happen. Dc Tig is heat into work. The reason is it's the one process where the electrode is not the consumable. Unlike mma and mig where your intention is to melt the electrode so they can be run happily in both polarities. Try it in Tig and you'll get exactly that, the electrode will vanish in a second under the current you put through it.
Maker
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Had the previous grinding wheel been used for things other than tungstens? If so then you might have been grinding contaminants onto the tungsten.
roofman
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After reading this thread and all the perameters needed to obtain a decent weld i think ile stick to MIG...was considering TIG for a play but i know as its for pleasure only it would end up getting launched through the window
Noods
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Yes mate.. For all kind if things.. I will keep a separate wheel now just for tungsten's..
Tiggy_dorset
It looks just like a bought one!
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I stopped using wheels to grind my tungstens because of this very reason. The contaminants would spit as I tried to weld.
I now put tungstens in a battery drill and slowly rotate it against a belt sander. At worst, you can mount an angle grinder in a vice with a sanding disc.
And always remember to grind leaving the grain along the length directed towards the tip. Dont want the grain going width-ways
Noods
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The first weld pic is a 2 mm steel sheet which I just cleaned up as much as poss with a flap wheel.. The little black dots are little holes in the weld..
Pic two of the welds is a 6 mm plate of steel which was very rusty, pitted with rust.. I've ground it as clean as I could and hoped to cover it with the 2mm to make a solid and smooth work surface..I'm guessing I'm about to be told you can't use material like that for tig?
Pic two of the welds is a 6 mm plate of steel which was very rusty, pitted with rust.. I've ground it as clean as I could and hoped to cover it with the 2mm to make a solid and smooth work surface..I'm guessing I'm about to be told you can't use material like that for tig?
Richard.
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We are really clutching at straws here. I am sure all the little tweeks and mods to the set up will improve things along the way and are appreciated but I can assure you getting a sharper tungsten, tightening the screws in the plug, and changing a grinding wheel are not going to change this guys welding. Noods you need tuition which you already know as I've seen the other thread. Any minor problems with the kit or set up will be tidied up in the tuition but I'll bet they are not responsible for your lack of success. You can weld a 2mm plate on top of a 6mm with your machine. You need to get that machine current whacked right up and get a good puddle going on the 6mm. You should be concentrating the welding all on the 6mm whilst wetting the edges of the 2mm as you add filler. It's not easy though.
