My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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- North Lincs
I am feeling quite good today cheers, my sister in law and her husband came to visit and cheered me up somewhat
they are a great couple and always manage to put a smile on my face.
- Thread starter monkeymark
- Start date
they are a great couple and always manage to put a smile on my face.
Pete.
Member
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- 14,472
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- Kent, UK
Found this at the recycle today, got this and a box of heavy M14 bolts and M8 long coach bolts, brand new AssaAboly 5 lever deadlock in the box for £5.
But what is it?
View attachment 363971
Beer tap
Luggsey
Member
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- 203
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- Devon
Bugger, didn't see the barrel!
julianthegypsy
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- Cirencester
Yep, beer tap that goes straight into the barrel, knocked in with a hammer, at high speed or the results are spectacular!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Beer/Keg tap.Found this at the recycle today, got this and a box of heavy M14 bolts and M8 long coach bolts, brand new AssaAboly 5 lever deadlock in the box for £5.
But what is it?
View attachment 363971
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Some new ones are made from Beech as well.
They are fun inserting. Place on bung in barrel and give them one hard and confident blow from a decent lump hammer. If all is well the bung goes in the barrel and the tap seals OK. If not you hit your thumb, tap goes all over the place and you loose a firkin of beer !
Remember to close the tap first !!!
Remember to close the tap first !!!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Don't use a lump hammer.
A decent rubber mallet or raw hide mallet will do a better job.
25.4_mechanic
Member
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- 1,046
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- Germany, southwest
... finally the longed-for stamp/sticker at the Unimog:
I had already shown the new four-circuit protection valve that had become necessary ...
... with its function the inspector agreed today.
Furthermore he had to criticize that on some brake lines the outer zinc coating had blossomed - since nowhere the pipe wall thickness was affected, it helped here - without removing the lines - sanding, rust protection primer, black top coat and over it some lithium saponified multi-purpose grease - of course in neon color, so that he really got to see something:
... not easy to show in the picture, but again it was enough for him (how he ever found this corner so deep in the system during the original inspection two weeks ago is still a mystery to me).
But the real dirty work was something else: Probably following an intuition, (but more likely his experience) he grabbed during the test in the right front wheel arch and pushed hard upwards ..... after the rust patches, which then fell to the ground, I knew already that I had lost.
During the damage assessment at home, it then became clear that generations before us had repeatedly welded on smaller and larger "band-aid" sheets in this area, which now fell to our feet when we tried to unearth bare, durable sheet metal.
We needed a big solution, because it was only after the original bend upwards that we could find durable metal to weld to.
It then became a CAD job (cardboard assisted design) and with the resulting artwork, I then had a sheet metal bent by someone who could do it (every day, all day) - yet we still had to piece too.
I had the village blacksmith do the actual spot welds, because A) he has longer arms than I do, B) that's where the testing takes place, like the re-testing, and C) one has an ally with authority on ones side when one has to sell it to the inspector.
Certain portions of sheet metal move against each other here, unfortunately the most solid anchor points were not available to us - we had to turn up front to get to the next solid area.
In the engine compartment, seen from the front, the same sheet of 0.8mm:
Our rules are like this: If significant welding work is to be carried out on the cab for the TÜV/MOT, this must afterwards be completely visible during the inspection (spot welds at least every 25mm), only a light rust protection is permissible - here red-brown rust protection primer.
Only after successfully passing the assessment can the affected areas be permanently preserved - here light gray body sealing compound.
Another seal with this body sealing compound will follow tomorrow, then black or yellow protective coating, then permanently elastic underbody protection.
The blue plug (not original, we did it) has the following purpose:
The new sheet created a cavity again. I wanted access during the welding so that I could flood everything inside with water worst case
It didn't come to that, now I use the plug to flood the cavity behind it with plenty of rust protection.
Another year of Unimog TÜV/MOT
Carsten
--
I had already shown the new four-circuit protection valve that had become necessary ...
... with its function the inspector agreed today.
Furthermore he had to criticize that on some brake lines the outer zinc coating had blossomed - since nowhere the pipe wall thickness was affected, it helped here - without removing the lines - sanding, rust protection primer, black top coat and over it some lithium saponified multi-purpose grease - of course in neon color, so that he really got to see something:
... not easy to show in the picture, but again it was enough for him (how he ever found this corner so deep in the system during the original inspection two weeks ago is still a mystery to me).
But the real dirty work was something else: Probably following an intuition, (but more likely his experience) he grabbed during the test in the right front wheel arch and pushed hard upwards ..... after the rust patches, which then fell to the ground, I knew already that I had lost.
During the damage assessment at home, it then became clear that generations before us had repeatedly welded on smaller and larger "band-aid" sheets in this area, which now fell to our feet when we tried to unearth bare, durable sheet metal.
We needed a big solution, because it was only after the original bend upwards that we could find durable metal to weld to.
It then became a CAD job (cardboard assisted design) and with the resulting artwork, I then had a sheet metal bent by someone who could do it (every day, all day) - yet we still had to piece too.
I had the village blacksmith do the actual spot welds, because A) he has longer arms than I do, B) that's where the testing takes place, like the re-testing, and C) one has an ally with authority on ones side when one has to sell it to the inspector.
Certain portions of sheet metal move against each other here, unfortunately the most solid anchor points were not available to us - we had to turn up front to get to the next solid area.
In the engine compartment, seen from the front, the same sheet of 0.8mm:
Our rules are like this: If significant welding work is to be carried out on the cab for the TÜV/MOT, this must afterwards be completely visible during the inspection (spot welds at least every 25mm), only a light rust protection is permissible - here red-brown rust protection primer.
Only after successfully passing the assessment can the affected areas be permanently preserved - here light gray body sealing compound.
Another seal with this body sealing compound will follow tomorrow, then black or yellow protective coating, then permanently elastic underbody protection.
The blue plug (not original, we did it) has the following purpose:
The new sheet created a cavity again. I wanted access during the welding so that I could flood everything inside with water worst case
It didn't come to that, now I use the plug to flood the cavity behind it with plenty of rust protection.
Another year of Unimog TÜV/MOT
Carsten
--
droopsnoot
Member
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- 1,130
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- South Cheshire, UK
It's similar here - if a welded repair is required for MOT, when you present the car for re-test the welds must be visible. If it's a patch to an existing panel - for example a sill - then it must be seam welded around all edges. Oh, and suspension components cannot be welded to pass a re-test, so if my subframe has a hole in it, it either needs welding up before the test, or replacing if it fails. Or it was, last time I had to re-present a car after rust repair.
8ob
Member
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- 13,903
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- Nescient in the vale
I acquired some big cal ammo boxes from @Red'n'Black . I like these, small,strong and just big enough to take a ratchet, spanners and service kit for the machines.
And a couple of work lamps.
And a couple of work lamps.
Sounds like your MOT person is making their own rules up. Or reading parts of the manual no-one else has
In 35 yrs of presenting some right rust buckets (mainly Fords) for MOT, I've never had the instruction to keep repairs clear for inspection, including to subframes. Same with suspension arms - thinking of Reliant SS1 trailing arms for one.
Yes to seam welded, unless original was spot welded.
Dcal
Member
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- 3,967
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Sounds like your MOT person is making their own rules up. Or reading parts of the manual no-one else has
In 35 yrs of presenting some right rust buckets (mainly Fords) for MOT, I've never had the instruction to keep repairs clear for inspection, including to subframes. Same with suspension arms - thinking of Reliant SS1 trailing arms for one.
Yes to seam welded, unless original was spot welded.
If it's fixed before the mot that's fine.
If they find a hole during the test then they will want to see the repair.
For repairs on subframes, they are allowed but need to be pretty much perfect and be prepared to fight your corner. Well that's the rule in NI anyway.
@James1979 posted a very useful link a few days ago.
Welding A Capri Inner Boot Lid? (Novice)
It will take far longer than you ever imagined, but I bet the results will be better than if you paid someone else to do it. Well - maybe not always. There's a guy near me, with a paint shop in amongst crammed together terraced houses. I had a dented Lancia bonnet that no-one would touch -...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
25.4_mechanic
Member
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- 1,046
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- Germany, southwest
A long thin welding bead would also have been OK here, but not necessary and because of the lower heat input we decided on points - whose max. distance is set at 25mm.
At the beginning of the year we had a completely different problem on our RAV4, 1. Gen, last facelift: The upper front right wheel carrier had a hole rusted in it, you are not allowed to weld there, the original part is no longer available and these cars have become rare (unobtainable) on scrap yards ...
So we welded it beforehand and generously covered large areas of the front end and floor pan with deep black underbody protection.
At the rear end of the car there was a small hole that he would not have criticised, we welded that, left it open and showed it to him in particular - all good!
He can't complain about what he can't see in the first place ....
Carsten
--
Before I had a welder, and as an impovrished student, I may have used gutter sealant on the odd hole . . .
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 11,872
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
I had a sort out and gave all my ammo boxes to my MOT tester. Read into that what you will.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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