Tom Senior mill`s ?? any good.

[W.olly]

Stop it now i want to go get it now

@Rannsachair

Your pics make it look even smaller, i have 1200mm wide space for it, can get more but means moving more gear and now with your pics it looks like it will easy fit. What depth will it need to fit against the wall ?

 

[Shox Dr]

Had 3 at one time.



@pressbrake1 I'll sell you the LV one day.

 

[Arc Tourist]

View attachment 372818

@pressbrake1 I'll sell you the LV one day.

Is that on February 31'st .

 

[Rannsachair]

Stop it now i want to go get it now

@Rannsachair

Your pics make it look even smaller, i have 1200mm wide space for it, can get more but means moving more gear and now with your pics it looks like it will easy fit. What depth will it need to fit against the wall ?

The 28" table has 18" of travel so need to leave space for full range of travel.

 

[Rannsachair]

Stop it now i want to go get it now

@Rannsachair

Your pics make it look even smaller, i have 1200mm wide space for it, can get more but means moving more gear and now with your pics it looks like it will easy fit. What depth will it need to fit against the wall ?

From the back of the drip tray it is about 970mm deep:

At full table travel on the y axis the handwheels are proud of the drip tray:

For the width to allow, I measured the table to handwheel at 910mm then need to add the 18" travel (457mm), means you need at very least 910+457 = 1367mm:

 

[Cheesie]

I've got the wants for a tom senior

 

[Gritineye]

If you want it buy it, there's no such thing as overpaying for good stuff, when you look back after ten years of fun it'll look cheap!

 

[Shox Dr]

If you want it buy it, there's no such thing as overpaying for good stuff, when you look back after ten years of fun it'll look cheap!

That was cheap 10yrs ago. i paid 1200 for the LV 20yrs ago. The ELT Major was 1100 about 5yrs ago

 

[W.olly]

From the back of the drip tray it is about 970mm deep:
View attachment 372829
View attachment 372830
At full table travel on the y axis the handwheels are proud of the drip tray:
View attachment 372831

For the width to allow, I measured the table to handwheel at 910mm then need to add the 18" travel (457mm), means you need at very least 910+457 = 1367mm:
View attachment 372832

Excellent, thanks for that. I have decided to clad the wall where its going as if i dont it wont get done as the Lathe is there aswell. So thats where its going.

 

[W.olly]

Why is one thing leads to another. Then another and another. Or is it I should of done it in the first place.

Gona be a tight fit to fit the TS on the back wall. But I want it as far away from the welding area as possible. ( I mite get welding screens fitted yet )

So I have lined out the back wall and moved the lather over to the corner.

Now I want to seal the Concrete. Will do that though when the mill is in place. As I won't have time otherwise.

Bloody shattered now as went out aswell to pick up the power saw thing.

The milll mite yet go where the flypress/ vice bench is and thay on the back wall.

Either way it's going in

 

[RichardM]

What - you mean you've bought it

 

[W.olly]

What - you mean you've bought it

de[posit paid and now waiting for collection to be sorted planned for Tis weekend

 

[not done it yet]

The 28" table has 18" of travel so need to leave space for full range of travel.

And that doesn;t include the power feed and the ‘andle.

 

[citizen kane]

Welcome to the club.

 

[W.olly]

Planning on getting it home on Friday. I will be using my engine crane/hoist but unsure on where to lift it.

Thoughts on this

Avoiding or blocking out pipes etc. Slung under the bed and the rear `sticky out` bit out the back of the head.

 

[Agroshield]

Consider this as the start of a lifting plan, not the full item. However you lift it, make sure your straps are very adjustable in length (e.g. use ratchet straps rather than fixed length slings).

I would go in front of the table and then around the back of the column and back up the front (red in picture below). Put a wood block between the table and column (green horizontal) so the pressure from the sling is not on the Y-axis screw. Put another wooden block under the head down to the table (vertical green line) again so the pressure from the strap is not on the Z-axis screw. Screw the two wooden blocks together into a T-shape.

Maybe at the back, rather than just hooking under the projecting bit, go around the front (and around the vertical wooden block, thus trapping it in place) and then take the left side of the sling and bring it up the right side of the projecting bit and vice versa. That way nothing can slip off. I'd even consider tying an overhand knot in the two sling legs under the sticky out bit to be doubly sure.

 

[Arc Tourist]

Consider taking off the vertical head and anything else that can be easily removed first, as I found it made moving the mill much easier.

 

[W.olly]

Consider this as the start of a lifting plan, not the full item. However you lift it, make sure your straps are very adjustable in length (e.g. use ratchet straps rather than fixed length slings).

I would go in front of the table and then around the back of the column and back up the front (red in picture below). Put a wood block between the table and column (green horizontal) so the pressure from the sling is not on the Y-axis screw. Put another wooden block under the head down to the table (vertical green line) again so the pressure from the strap is not on the Z-axis screw. Screw the two wooden blocks together into a T-shape.

Maybe at the back, rather than just hooking under the projecting bit, go around the front (and around the vertical wooden block, thus trapping it in place) and then take the left side of the sling and bring it up the right side of the projecting bit and vice versa. That way nothing can slip off. I'd even consider tying an overhand knot in the two sling legs under the sticky out bit to be doubly sure.

View attachment 373430

Good idea there. ill have that i have a good few ratchet straps. used them more than the lfiting straps i have lol.

thanks kida

Consider taking off the vertical head and anything else that can be easily removed first, as I found it made moving the mill much easier.

View attachment 373454 View attachment 373455

Does the head unit/head unbolt straight off the top part ? i can see two bolts either side of the pivot, i guess its them tat need removing ?

 

[Arc Tourist]

Good idea there. ill have that i have a good few ratchet straps. used them more than the lfiting straps i have lol.

thanks kida



Does the head unit/head unbolt straight off the top part ? i can see two bolts either side of the pivot, i guess its them tat need removing ?

My mill is an ELT model which is slightly different, with the vertical head being bolted to a bracket which attaches it to the main column dovetail slide for the knee, but yours should also be easily removed. The vertical head is heavy, so be careful.

 

[RichardM]

Take the motor off the head before removing head, one pivot screw to the left, adjustment bolt to the right. take one of the belt covers off and move the head forward to release belt and then lift the motor off.