Tool and Cutter Grinder Build

[jordhandson]

Mitsubishi are Japanese.
Any of their tools should be high quality.

oops

 

[jordhandson]

Don’t worry you’re not doing milling at 15000rpm

Ha ha your right Kearny's a bit of a plodder. I did have a bit of a fright yesterday though, I lost the power feed on the mill spent half an hour researching stripping down the knee, thought bugger it I will sort it another time, later in the day I have to move the table over to get round it, and realised it was between gears on the feed lever. Was I happy when I found that.

 

[jordhandson]

the holes are for cooling fluid going through them

sorted I do feel a numpty sometimes

 

[jordhandson]

The curiosity is killing me now, I am going to have to go back in the workshop in a min to route through father boxes of drills he picked up, talk about getting gold fever.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

EH I will have a look around as they may not be ant good as my Kerany trecker dont have fluid in the head, it on the outside.

@Hood's the chap to explain about 'through the head' coolant delivery.

 

[Hopefuldave]

OMG what a result. I been doing some reaserch on these bits first looked for Guehring bits found them on the Guehring the tool company then found on the net the Mitsubishi SSA drill bits there all carbide drills pretty high end stuff. I will have to definitely blag them off father and only use them for special drilling and milling jobs

Ive down loaded the Mitsubishi SSA drill bit Cutting Condition and I think I have found the drill that will drill those bead roller dies I hardened.

Still looking for this one though is it for milling or drilling
View attachment 208247

Could be a counterbore, with the cone for locating / piloting in an existing drilled hole - is the cone point sharp, with a relief so it cuts?

Carbide definitely feels and looks different, weighs about twice as much as the same size HSS cutter - almost as heavy as gold, heavier than lead! You'll need the right wheel on your TCG to sharpen it, green grit is OK for roughing but won't produce a good edge (more chipped into shape than ground)!

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[jordhandson]

Could be a counterbore, with the cone for locating / piloting in an existing drilled hole - is the cone point sharp, with a relief so it cuts?

Carbide definitely feels and looks different, weighs about twice as much as the same size HSS cutter - almost as heavy as gold, heavier than lead! You'll need the right wheel on your TCG to sharpen it, green grit is OK for roughing but won't produce a good edge (more chipped into shape than ground)!

Dave H. (the other one)

Cheers Dave this ones beaten me at the moment, yes the point is sharp with a relief. I dint know they could be sharpened will have to look into that. Upping the game with the tools don't half opens a can of worms. Gone are the days of doing it all with the angle grinder ha ha.

 

[gaz1]

you can sharpen inserts as well

just incase you dont know this

 

[jordhandson]

you can sharpen inserts as well

just incase you dont know this

Morning Gaz, yes I only found out this a few days ago, luckily being tight fisted all my old insert Ive chuck in a tin. I think I will end up being a bit of horder.

 

[jordhandson]

Just one little update from today, I had another sort through them boxes of drills and found a couple of good Guehring I think they are spot drills, and 3 unknown make ones. All handy to have and a bonus to me.

 

[gaz1]

im just waiting for fathers gonna start charging for you raiding his stuff

 

[jordhandson]

Not much done, I have managed to source a piece of tube to fit over the tool holder, I think is from an old pto shaft,

I turned it down to just over 60mm and bored it to fit the tool holder with the 40 and 3 morse taper in.

I have not turned it completely down, as will wait to see what steel I can get for the head piece. I am hoping to pick up something around 80mm square. I have used a piece of 8mm plate off cut to start making the indexing plate,

I have bored it to fit a small lip on the swivel tube piece and I gave it a little blast to clean it up.

I wont drill the indexing holes until I have sorted the head out, as I wont to have the indexing pin mounted some ware on the head. I need to get over to the scrappy but at the moment I have no time.

Jord

 

[jordhandson]

A couple of fiddly bits done this week, I made some clamping rings in the week


2 for the tool holder

and 1 for the spindle housing where the guard to fit onto,

not a lot but a bit time consuming, I also turned the back piece for the guard.


This morning I finished making the guard, using some off cut 6mm plate and 75mm end piece from a drilling tube,

once I had welded it together


I then realised I would need to take a piece out of the back plate to grind past the wheel, so I made a crescent type cut.


This one is for the 150mm wheels, I will probably make a 110mm guard for when I am using the 100mm diameter wheels. The guard can swivel round the grind wheel and clamped any position.
I still have not had time to get over to the scrappy for the metal for the housing head, although I was looking at some of my offcuts of forklift tine

this morning and I may have come up with an idea of welding a couple of pieces together, then machining and boring them into the head part.

Cheers Jord

 

[jordhandson]

Made another guard from scrap I had about this one is for the 4 inch grinding wheels.



I have started to make the head from a couple pieces of fork tine, I milled out a basic shape


then welded them together.

When I get time I will start boring it out.



Jord

 

[gaz1]

i would suggest you make that cover a little wider than what you are doing

id rather that disc give inside of it an dhave soemwhere for it to go than close proximity it has got

if you look at the design of any grinding machine it has an 1/2-1" clearance around the disk and its the same with big grinders

they kinda have a relief gap between grinding disc and the sides i presume its to allow the disc to disintergrate within the shielding

yours really has no space so if it gives its coming at you

others that use them might have other reasons for this gapping with grinding machines or @Parm might know

 

[Pete.]

The extra space is to allow working room for various grinding operations. The guard looks great but it won't be long before you take a grinder to it so you can do a particular job.

 

[jordhandson]

i would suggest you make that cover a little wider than what you are doing

id rather that disc give inside of it an dhave soemwhere for it to go than close proximity it has got

if you look at the design of any grinding machine it has an 1/2-1" clearance around the disk and its the same with big grinders

they kinda have a relief gap between grinding disc and the sides i presume its to allow the disc to disintergrate within the shielding

yours really has no space so if it gives its coming at you

others that use them might have other reasons for this gapping with grinding machines or @Parm might know

From all the research ive done on these universal tool and cutter grinders they all have seam to have approx 5mm clearance, here's a few examples.

On the 100mm wheel I have actually 6mm. Also the 6mm clearance is only the last few mm as its a cup wheel.

I do intend to mainly use diamond wheels.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

From all the research ive done on these universal tool and cutter grinders they all have seam to have approx 5mm clearance, here's a few examples.
View attachment 209846 View attachment 209847 View attachment 209848 View attachment 209849 View attachment 209850
On the 100mm wheel I have actually 6mm. Also the 6mm clearance is only the last few mm as its a cup wheel.

I do intend to mainly use diamond wheels.

The Quorn looks to have a bit more clearance?

http://www.lathes.co.uk/quorn/

 

[jordhandson]

Yeh slim I saw the quorn ones on the same link, I did think nightmare especially them little white wheels, if they gave way.

 

[pressbrake1]

@Hood's the chap to explain about 'through the head' coolant delivery.

Through coolant adapters I have a bucket of iso 40 ones , which are too tidley for my manly machinery