kingcreaky
New Member
- Messages
- 16
- Location
- Leicester, UK
spend the time learning to do it by hand. bit of practice and you will never look back.
So after the 10mm I thought I would try something chunkier with a bit more damage, so here's a half inch Dormer with a chunk out of it. The previous drill was with the wheel was graded to 1000 grit, for this bigger drill I regraded it to 220 grit with the grading stone which takes about 30 seconds.
View attachment 41675
here's the primary facets cut and half way down the secondary, you can see that its still a chisel rather than a point so a bit more grinding needed. You can see that I haven't got rid of the whole chip, the depth adjuster is 0.5mm per turn so I should probably have given it another turn on the primary facet. I shall wear my glasses next time! The red fibres are off my jumper where I wiped the drill.
View attachment 41677
So here's the drill with the secondary facet cut so the facets meets at a point.
View attachment 41678
Here's that ragged edge, I'll wait until I'm back on the 1000 grit for smaller drills and take another 0.5mm off later
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Here's a better view of the previous 10mm drill to show that it does make a nice clean edge
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I'm going to try a Swedish Malcus 22mm next which is as big as it can go then a 4.3mm cobalt drill which I'll probably need the magnifier that comes with it to align it.
Verdict, does a lovely precise job at the angles you want and its pretty simple once you have used it a couple of times. It's not too bad speed wise but as the manual suggest, on bigger or damaged drills its probably worth taking some meat off on the grinder first, especially on the secondary facets/. Cost wise, only really makes sense if you already have the Tormek grinder. You can use Tormek jigs on a standard grinder with an adaptor I think it would work fine as long as the wheel diameter is reasonably large, the drill holder easlily comes off so you could quench the drill frequently if the grinder wasn't water cooled.
I rummage a bit harder and find one that's sharp lol.I wait until I have at least a dozen bits to sharpen then start with the bigger sizes by the time I have done a few I get the knack of it again free hand on the grinder
Necro post time
I have bought one of these and i am getting a very odd result with the primary grind
I get the rake in the reverse direction
The bar is parallel to the wheel axis
The jig is at the right angle
The drill is aligned with the right marks
I tried a copper bar in the jig and it is above centre
But i constantly get rake going the wrong way
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@Badger1bear has a 500x for sale at the moment.I rummage a bit harder and find one that's sharp lol.
Will invest in a drill doctor this year.
Have a lot of twists to sharpen.
I know. Poor ATM. Will have to wait. Thanks for the heads up though@Badger1bear has a 500x for sale at the moment.
Just switched back to subbing so no money for a few weeks. Need to be an adult.A common problem, I feel your pain
Necro post time
I have bought one of these and i am getting a very odd result with the primary grind
I get the rake in the reverse direction
The bar is parallel to the wheel axis
The jig is at the right angle
The drill is aligned with the right marks
I tried a copper bar in the jig and it is above centre
But i constantly get rake going the wrong way
View attachment 181709View attachment 181709View attachment 181710View attachment 181711View attachment 181712View attachment 181713
where abouts in London? come say hi next timeI'm heading down to London very early in the morning so away from the workshop for a while. I'm back Friday if I get chance I will dig out the jig and see if I can spot what you are doing wrong. It's been while since I used it but my tray of drills needing sharpening needs sorting so its probably fortuitous.
Cheers
Andy