Parm
Respect The Sound System
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I don't have any pressure gauges on the regs so have no way of checking or setting accurately
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brightspark
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ive tried a number 3 nozzle and its not verry successful. dificult to regulate and the heat cone produced doesnt look that good niether , so a number one and 2 will be ok for brazing and heating only just mind . not worth bothering with .acetylenes the answer
I guess the difference is in nozzles/tips - I use lightweight ones and have no problem at all with oxy-propane using tips from #1 to #13 (haven't tried anything bigger), but I guess your No3 torch uses larger tips (my lightweight ones have 1/4"x26tpi thread, whereas the large ones are 7/16"x27tpi).
brightspark
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the bore sizes on the blowpipes on the lightweight torch are the same as the heavyweight its just the physical size of the torch the outer size of blowpipes and hoses that are larger
I've never found two different tables for lightweight and "normal" tip and they all quote the same flow rates regardless, so thanks for clarifying that.
In which case, why is it that you have difficulty using any tip bigger than #2 (ok, #3 runs, but in your own words "...difficult to regulate and the heat cone produced doesn't look that good...") and I can run anything up to #7 easily and larger ones with slightly more care?
Although I must admit I seldom need the big ones.
I am simply curious
In which case, why is it that you have difficulty using any tip bigger than #2 (ok, #3 runs, but in your own words "...difficult to regulate and the heat cone produced doesn't look that good...") and I can run anything up to #7 easily and larger ones with slightly more care?
Although I must admit I seldom need the big ones.
I am simply curious
brightspark
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u probably can run all the diffrent size blowpipes . its just that ive only shown up to no 3 to give every one an idea of what we are on about rather than just discuss itI've never found two different tables for lightweight and "normal" tip and they all quote the same flow rates regardless, so thanks for clarifying that.
In which case, why is it that you have difficulty using any tip bigger than #2 (ok, #3 runs, but in your own words "...difficult to regulate and the heat cone produced doesn't look that good...") and I can run anything up to #7 easily and larger ones with slightly more care?
Although I must admit I seldom need the big ones.
I am simply curious
Parm
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Ok chaps, carport project has now been completed and I can return to this.
Shank is Hi Lo 3, mixer is brand new, got it from somewhere after lots of research, chap that sold it too me said it would definitely work, can't remember where I got it from now as it was a while back! Markings on the mixer are MFR 02/10 if that's any help.
Tip is a No3 and it's a copper type material that screws into mixer.
My regs don't have any gauges.
Help muchly appreciated
Shank is Hi Lo 3, mixer is brand new, got it from somewhere after lots of research, chap that sold it too me said it would definitely work, can't remember where I got it from now as it was a while back! Markings on the mixer are MFR 02/10 if that's any help.
Tip is a No3 and it's a copper type material that screws into mixer.
My regs don't have any gauges.
Help muchly appreciated
Parm
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What shank and mixer are you using?I (and many others) use oxy-propane with so called "welding/designed for acetylene" swaged nozzles for brazing.
Having said so, I haven't tried Saffire 3 (or it's copies) so maybe there is something I am missing?
Acetylene would be better but it's not an option for many of us.
BTW this is what I am using:
Mine is lightweight from Butbro, but there are many other lightweight, for example:
http://www.weldequip.com/oxy-propane-brazing.htm
Chap that sold it to you was right 100% about it being fine for oxy-propane.
I am assuming that you know how the regulators work? (ie in reverse to what would seem normal - screw in to open, screw out to close).
It's just that, without pressure gauges, you might be actually using higher settings than what is desirable?
http://www.weldequip.com/oxy-propane-brazing.htm
Chap that sold it to you was right 100% about it being fine for oxy-propane.
I am assuming that you know how the regulators work? (ie in reverse to what would seem normal - screw in to open, screw out to close).
It's just that, without pressure gauges, you might be actually using higher settings than what is desirable?
Parm
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Ok I don't have gauges on my regs so the pressure could be high, I can't check until I get some new regs.
Are there different types of mixer that may make a difference or are they all the same?
My research suggests that this should work and I'm determined to make it do so !!
Paul.
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Not sure what kit you are using but regulators for oxy fuel welding / cutting are normally 2 stage as opposed to the single stage type used with shielding gas, you will need a stable flow at a pressure of around 0.2 bar to maintain a flame with a no. 2 or 3 nozzle, the problems you are describing here are typical of what most students have with gas welding kit in the early stages.
brightspark
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i have pressure gauges on the regs there only single stage , to be honest i never look at them for setting pressure . all i do is open the gas tap on the torch start to tighten the reg just sufficient till gas flows through torch shut it off at torch and do the same with oxygen . then light torch after a while u will get to know when pressures are right without looking for each nozzle
Parm
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Useful information gents. I'm just back from work and had a look at the regs. According to info on the regs they are two stage but neither of them have any gauges. The propane reg has two blanked out sockets where i suppose gauges can be fitted. On the oxy reg there is nothing spare so I can fix any gauges.
These regs were supplied to me working and came from the rail industry where some massive kit was used to heat and weld rail track. They used soy propane and I've seen it working.
Looks like I need to go buy some new regs !!!
Propane regulator if it had a gauge fitted it would only be one (out), bottle pressure remains more or less exactly the same from the beginning to the end (the only way to gauge how full it is, is by weight).
Oxygen might have two gauges (one for the bottle pressure, one for out).
Forget the gauges for the minute - let's establish you are using the regulators correctly:
I suggest close both of them (by unscrewing them totally) and just crack a bit of a turn in
then see if you can light propane OK?
ps
how old are these regulators? (you know they are "lifed"?)
are you using flashback arrestors?
