Brilliant I never thought you would get this far. Straightening that was no mean feat!
- Thread starter minimutly
- Start date
Well the next phase of this has begun - the milling head feed gearbox (most likely will spread to the quill and maybe the two speed epicylcic drive gearbox as well.
For now, the issue with this was it wouldn't disengage the manual lever. I cleaned a tubfull of grease out of it, had a play and was alarmed to see the worm wheel of the manual feed shaft (the one with the Feed wheel on the front) being drawn into the gear wheel - effectively smashing the feed speed gear into the worm wheel.
Some gouging had taken place.
So tonight I got the thing apart finally. The culprit was the worm wheel - inside this there are 3 sets of coarse splines, and two magic balls which are inside the feed shaft (the one attached to the coarse feed handles, perpendicular to the quill). Well these magic balls pop out into the splines on this gear, locking it up when you turn a knob on the end, forcing a plunger shaft up inside the main shaft. The balls have galled the edge of the spline, tightening it onto the main shaft, had to press it off.
I think it's repairable, might just clean it up, might cut 200 thou off the end of the gear to move it along the shaft a bit. One day if I have to I might make a new gear, maybe.
Pics tomorrow ...
For now, the issue with this was it wouldn't disengage the manual lever. I cleaned a tubfull of grease out of it, had a play and was alarmed to see the worm wheel of the manual feed shaft (the one with the Feed wheel on the front) being drawn into the gear wheel - effectively smashing the feed speed gear into the worm wheel.
Some gouging had taken place.
So tonight I got the thing apart finally. The culprit was the worm wheel - inside this there are 3 sets of coarse splines, and two magic balls which are inside the feed shaft (the one attached to the coarse feed handles, perpendicular to the quill). Well these magic balls pop out into the splines on this gear, locking it up when you turn a knob on the end, forcing a plunger shaft up inside the main shaft. The balls have galled the edge of the spline, tightening it onto the main shaft, had to press it off.
I think it's repairable, might just clean it up, might cut 200 thou off the end of the gear to move it along the shaft a bit. One day if I have to I might make a new gear, maybe.
Pics tomorrow ...
Pics as promised.
So the plunger is released, pushed by the spring, the balls come out into the splines and lock it. But in the process do this:-
The galling or indents are on all shoulders, which tell me this is not new, and it's been turned around on the shaft previously. In fact I don't think this part is factory - everything else has a number stamped on it, and all the other gears are hard as, whereas this is fairly soft.
The consequences of the gear sticking on the shaft are that the gearbox eats itself, so a repeat is not to be recommended.
I'm starting to think I should have called this "The daily dissapointment with the Town Woodhouse..,"
So the drive gearbox. I cleaned up the inside of the splines, and some of the damage on the teeth with my ancient 3.5mm die grinder, put the shaft back together and tried it. Seemed to work ok. But, the lower selector shaft had a bit of a wobble, as well as some issues where the worm had jacked the shaft across, damaging a circlip and its groove, so it had to come out:
So this turned out to be shaft No4 to be straightened - not too bad, around 10 thou throw, got it down to 2 at the first go, left it at that, pleased. It still needs the circlip groov machining, the gear checked over,and then it can go back in.
So then I turned my attention to the quill - seemed daft not to pull it for a look, given I,was this close:
So the drive gearbox. I cleaned up the inside of the splines, and some of the damage on the teeth with my ancient 3.5mm die grinder, put the shaft back together and tried it. Seemed to work ok. But, the lower selector shaft had a bit of a wobble, as well as some issues where the worm had jacked the shaft across, damaging a circlip and its groove, so it had to come out:
So this turned out to be shaft No4 to be straightened - not too bad, around 10 thou throw, got it down to 2 at the first go, left it at that, pleased. It still needs the circlip groov machining, the gear checked over,and then it can go back in.
So then I turned my attention to the quill - seemed daft not to pull it for a look, given I,was this close:
Well that wasn't too pretty, but it gets worse, a lot worse:
So the shaft needs work, the top and bottom bearings are knacked, and truthfully, I have no idea what the bottom bearing numbers are. There is a thrust bearing and a needle roller, but without removing them I can't begin to guess on replacement costs. As for the pitting - obviously it's got wet, the shaft will need a thin sleeve I recon..
I cleaned it, put some grease in there, closed it all back up and ran it. It's suprisingly quiet, with no slack, so it will have to wait untill I find new bearings.
Fizzy you should have fixed that roof earlier...
JMS1972
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Are the balls too small? Surely they should be a close fit to the holes they ride in? Or are they just far away?
Latest update on this, the whole lot is back together, but I managed to snap the pull rod for the auto feed off - it had a slight bend and I tapped it back "straight"...
So I'll have to make a new one. Still managed to test it, and it's working like magic, the auto feed knocks off as it should, the quill retracts as it should and the auto/manual feed locks as it should when I turn the knob on the end.
Other work to do is to make a pair of quill feed pull down handles, cos both were missing, and I still haven't converted both motors to 230V assuming I can. Then to get onto making that gear for the notcher.
So I'll have to make a new one. Still managed to test it, and it's working like magic, the auto feed knocks off as it should, the quill retracts as it should and the auto/manual feed locks as it should when I turn the knob on the end.
Other work to do is to make a pair of quill feed pull down handles, cos both were missing, and I still haven't converted both motors to 230V assuming I can. Then to get onto making that gear for the notcher.
Took the main motor off tonight to star the windings, all went swimmingly. Refitted it to my skip inverter, rated at 2A, 110Hz. The motor is a 1hp Gryphon, so it’s all a bit tight. Having said that I cut some metal with it tonight and on a 20mm slot drill cutting mild steel it took everything I threw at it, managed to warm the motor up.
So then I took off the table feed motor to do likewise on that - it’s been rewound (looks a really good job), but everything is real fine in there...
So then I took off the table feed motor to do likewise on that - it’s been rewound (looks a really good job), but everything is real fine in there...
Joy of joys, Tony at lathes.co.uk emailed back to confirm he has the right manual for my TW mill. Not sure I need it, but at the very least it will tell me what the mumbers are for my quill bearings. Feels like it should be £45 well spent.
Aaand another dissapointment with this. This time it's not the machine, it's the manual I bought. I fully expected it would give me details of the quill bearings:
The process of "adjusting it":
There is a drawing of the whole head, numbered. But what about bearing numbers?
So can any learned person tell me how you make a needle roller bearing adjustable?
The process of "adjusting it":
There is a drawing of the whole head, numbered. But what about bearing numbers?
So can any learned person tell me how you make a needle roller bearing adjustable?
Hey the leaks were in other places!
Even though the mill was knackered I still cherished it
Ah, I think I may have it!
Someone tell if I'm wrong?
By tightening down on "1" you squeeze the squiggly outer part of the roller bearing....
Spindle is in and running @Brad93 - suprisingly well given the markings on the needle inner and timken outer.
@Seadog , the needle bearing is listed as "adjustable" - that's my point - how can it be? The preload on the thrust bearing could be set by the top nut, and there is something odd about the needle bearing outer shell - that zigzag thing??
Sorry, my mistake - the pic above is the spindle assembly drawing, sideways.
@Seadog , the needle bearing is listed as "adjustable" - that's my point - how can it be? The preload on the thrust bearing could be set by the top nut, and there is something odd about the needle bearing outer shell - that zigzag thing??
Sorry, my mistake - the pic above is the spindle assembly drawing, sideways.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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Interesting. I was on my phone previously, so didn't pick up the detail from the image so well. (Old, sight not what it used to be, etc., etc.)
I'm both surprised and impressed with this discovery, I never knew you could squeeze a needle bearing to close it's tolerance. Now I need to inspect it again to price up a replacement. It's likely imperial, so here's hoping they're available at a reasonable price.Interesting. I was on my phone previously, so didn't pick up the detail from the image so well. (Old, sight not what it used to be, etc., etc.)
