Trailer gadget mk2

[8ob]

Mk1 is/was a box of tricks I knocked up many years ago to help in wiring/diagnosing trailer/trailer board electrics without the need for a vehicle to plug into.It could also be used to check the tow bar electrics. Downside is it needed a battery to plug into, it wasn’t water proof and the thirteen pin plug has since emerged.

The plan

Condense the whole lot including a battery pack,charger, remote fob, override switches ,led check lamps, both 7//13 pin trailer sockets and include the aux feeds.

Tried a 50 cal ammo box but it was all a bit too tight so went for the fat cal ammo box with a rubber seal on the lid.

Work in progress, got the nine/thirteen pin plugs wired up and bolted in, fitted the check leds for the trailer lamps, need to find a place for the aux warning lamps.

 

[ukracer]

That looks pretty damn useful.
It would be a nice subject for a YouTube video.

 

[RonA]

Great minds think something or other I believe the phrase goes.
I bought the Sealey tester on the left when tow electrics became an MOT testable item & then realised I had nothing to test the caravan electrics. The box on the right is mainly made up with bits I had lying about apart from the socket & containing box which I had to buy all powered from the car battery with the flying leads. The sealey tester had a 7 to 13 pin adapter negating the need for a separate 13 pin socket.
RonA

 

[8ob]

That looks pretty damn useful.
It would be a nice subject for a YouTube video.

I really struggle with the YouTube system, I have done it but can never remember how I got there

There is enough room for a pair of those 12v alarm batteries so that should provide enough poke for longer jobs.

I wired up the remote and that seems quite happy to operate from over 100 mts with the lid down so will be more than adequate for trailers. Need to change the fuse holder I bought for a twelve way without bus bar. Dash panel has a volt meter, override switches in case the remote goes flat/mammaries up and cig/ usb socket which will be handy for powering the test probe.

 

[premmington]

Am I missing something here? As a professional auto electrician - I am not feeling the vibe!

I just use a power probe! Plus a vehicle length 7/13 pin extension plug/socket lead.

I also hate power probes - but this is one job they are perfect/made for!

I do use the standard 7pin 13pin LED testers on the same extension leads (But I do find these do not pull enough current for fault finding on older/corroded stuff).

Sadly I am so familiar with what each pin does - I don't have to look at drawing at all - (I should get out more often)

 

[sako243]

It would be a nice subject for a YouTube video.

Knowing Bob the video would be about 6 weeks long as he keeps getting distracted by annoying people (employees and family ) and would forget to turn off the camera.

 

[James1979]

I built myself a simple version, a bit like that sealer one. One mod which may help you is to put a buzzer in on the stop lights. You can test the whole lot yourself from the cab when doing the tow bar electrics

 

[premmington]

I built myself a simple version, a bit like that sealer one. One mod which may help you is to put a buzzer in on the stop lights. You can test the whole lot yourself from the cab when doing the tow bar electrics

This is why I have extension leads - you can sit in the drivers seat and plug in the tester and operate the controls/brake pedal.

 

[James1979]

This is why I have extension leads - you can sit in the drivers seat and plug in the tester and operate the controls/brake pedal.

I'd just worry the fault was in the extension! I suppose if you were using them regularly as test leads then you would know they're good.

 

[8ob]

Am I missing something here? As a professional auto electrician - I am not feeling the vibe!

I just use a power probe! Plus a vehicle length 7/13 pin extension plug/socket lead.

I also hate power probes - but this is one job they are perfect/made for!

I do use the standard 7pin 13pin LED testers on the same extension leads (But I do find these do not pull enough current for fault finding on older/corroded stuff).

Sadly I am so familiar with what each pin does - I don't have to look at drawing at all - (I should get out more often)

Unfortunately I am not that gifted At 7am in the morning in the pitch dark and with three guys waiting (at my expense) to go to work I need to be able to check both truck and trailer as quick as I can, it’s not their problem they have ripped the wires off the day before and failed to mention it , it’s mine. I haven’t found anything better than the Mk1 so I am just refining the concept and bringing it up to date so it’s completely stand alone. A few mates have copied mine and they all swear by them, also means I can take trailer boards and trailers into my workshop and Wire/test/ repair them without needing a vehicle in there.

Bob

 

[ukracer]

Knowing Bob the video would be about 6 weeks long as he keeps getting distracted by annoying people (employees and family ) and would forget to turn off the camera.

I don't care...still useful...

 

[ukracer]

Am I missing something here? As a professional auto electrician - I am not feeling the vibe!

I just use a power probe! Plus a vehicle length 7/13 pin extension plug/socket lead.

I also hate power probes - but this is one job they are perfect/made for!

I do use the standard 7pin 13pin LED testers on the same extension leads (But I do find these do not pull enough current for fault finding on older/corroded stuff).

Sadly I am so familiar with what each pin does - I don't have to look at drawing at all - (I should get out more often)

It's just damn useful knowing if it's trailer or vehicle as a start. (Usually in a rush.)

 

[premmington]

I'd just worry the fault was in the extension! I suppose if you were using them regularly as test leads then you would know they're good.

I don't solder the ones I use for test leads. Also I tend to drill the casings - plugs and sockets on these test leads (also rip the spring cover off on day one) - so I can get a multimeter probe in to test quickly without the need to keep unpluging - I always use plastic plugs sockets for this reason.

 

[RonA]

I’ve a City & Guilds in Industrial & domestic electronics but I still find the box of tricks I knocked up extremely useful. The Sealey tester was only bought because it’s compatible with vehicle canbus electronics otherwise I’d have built that too.
RonA

 

[Justme]

Am I missing something here? As a professional auto electrician - I am not feeling the vibe!

(But I do find these do not pull enough current for fault finding on older/corroded stuff).

You answered your own comment.

Often each bulb will work on its own but combined they disco on you.
Using a power probe you can only test one at a time.

 

[Justme]

I’ve a City & Guilds in Industrial & domestic electronics but I still find the box of tricks I knocked up extremely useful. The Sealey tester was only bought because it’s compatible with vehicle canbus electronics otherwise I’d have built that too.
RonA

Th official MOT approved testers are not working well with some cars reporting faults when there are none.

 

[ukracer]

You answered your own comment.

Often each bulb will work on its own but combined they disco on you.
Using a power probe you can only test one at a time.

are there any reliable youtude vieos on how to construct one/

This is exactly the situation we have often

 

[heldtogetherwithblutack]

If your building your own trailer/caravan tester, dont forget include a trailing earth with croc clip to attach to the chassis. Trailer "light board" circuits are usually independant of any chassis earth, any circuit short to chassis will only be a problem when the hitch is coupled to a vehicle.

 

[moose]

What I always find is never know is it the car or the trailer/caravan etc so many years ago, I bought two plugs (only 7 pin) that fit in the sockets on the car, they have LED lights and a buzzer to test brake lights) but its all in the plug, no cable very simple and easy to use. Not sure if I have ever used the other plug (fridge etc) but have used the other one often. I like your mk2 version, I again many years ago had thought something on the same lines ie a box, but would have separate battery so did not go any further.

 

[tom2207]

Unfortunately I am not that gifted At 7am in the morning in the pitch dark and with three guys waiting (at my expense) to go to work I need to be able to check both truck and trailer as quick as I can, it’s not their problem they have ripped the wires off the day before and failed to mention it , it’s mine. I haven’t found anything better than the Mk1 so I am just refining the concept and bringing it up to date so it’s completely stand alone. A few mates have copied mine and they all swear by them, also means I can take trailer boards and trailers into my workshop and Wire/test/ repair them without needing a vehicle in there.

Bob

why not just do what i did years ago , put a socket on the trailer as well ,, so you have a socket on the trailer , a socket on the van ,, and make up a suzi , and have a couple spare , keeps you going nine times out of ten , and look at the suzi when you get a chance .

 

[James1979]

why not just do what i did years ago , put a socket on the trailer as well ,, so you have a socket on the trailer , a socket on the van ,, and make up a suzi , and have a couple spare , keeps you going nine times out of ten , and look at the suzi when you get a chance .

That’s what I do. Started doing it when I looked after arb and landscapers kit. They annihilate anything!!

I think this is now factory standard on the newer ifors