Tube bending idea?

[addjunkie]

photo's

Of what, boats, bikes, birds?

 

[the snooper]

View attachment 80099
Of what, boats, bikes, birds?View attachment 80098

View attachment 80100

erm look again at the post

 

[tinman123]

as already said, if you put that pipe i na pipe bender it will just crumple it.
altho it might be slightly more possible if you had one of these springs inside the pipe ad maybe a lead lining outside if it was possible, it might form it somewhat tidy if it dosent just crimp too.

after that if i was looking to do that here id go to a crowd who make up power products including having a machine that can draw thin walled pipe altho doing that with shiny stainless and not leaving marks would be tricky.
id imagine the oem ones are made up first and then plated possibly.

 

[gaz1]

i wouldnt use that spring unless its the last thing that i could use

ive bent 15mm not a problem often and sometimes got that spring stuck in it
same with 22mm bending around the knee
32mm is a swine to bend over the knee

and those was in copper tube

if i had a choice in the matter i would choose this method rather than that above



will it work with stainless got no idea but leaves a slight incline on the start of the bend you may need to heat the stainless up to bend it more easily

ive bent the bar on my bender too many bends on it and not heated the copper tube up first but at 22.00 there not bad to replace

 

[W.olly]

for you snoop, before na dafter, cant get any better as it half undercover on the drive. had new keel, bearers, floor, rear deck, transom, windows, we;; near dam new boat.

It was a bit of a plant pot, or was that me taking it on lol

then

loads of inbetween
pics but it will take all mornin and off to work now.

 

[Ton-up]

I have bent 20mm stainless conduit no bother with a hilmor type tube bender. It takes a good pull, and I wedge a foot of the bender under something so It can't lift!
Theres a rear door pull handle on my Landrover I made, if I can get a photo later I will.
You should be able to do what you want ok.

 

[Kent]

I think I should have looked into buying a new bare hull before taking that one on. You have a lot of guts I will give you that

 

[500e]

Nahh they paid to have it removed
Brave shout though

 

[KemppiFrog]

Mate needed to wrap copper pipe round a tube as part of an exhaust system on his classic boat reno. Think the tube was 15mm. radius about 30mm. He filled it with water and put it in the chest freezer. With the ice in it, it went round nicely by hand with no kinks for about 15 turns.

I have a home made version of the MM bender and made some curves in 19mm SS tube with a fabricated former and a delrin roller to pull it round. Acceptable bends with no kinking, but slightly flattened.

Nice job on the boat Wully. You were effectively starting with a hull and deck. What engine are you planning on?

Funnily enough, I am just finishing a 24mtr rail al round a boat in 40x20x2 mm stainless tube. The very tight curves are pie sliced and welded up (talking 2" rad) and the gentle ones along the boat are formed by gentle kinking every 100mm in the hydraulic press (like a cross-bow bender) Couldn't do it in the section roller bender, as the curve varies along the boat.

 

[KemppiFrog]

I think I should have looked into buying a new bare hull before taking that one on. You have a lot of guts I will give you that

Hardly. Boats in that condition are being gifted. A new hull and deck moulding would be more than one could buy a boat in good nick with an engine.

The used boat market is flooded, just look at e-bay. On a boating forum I look at. A 38 ft GRP power boat from a very good maker couldn't sell for under a grand. It had no engines and the owner had ripped out the interior to start a refit. As a liveabord, it was a gift for someone with a bit of DIY skill. But one needs somewhere to keep it. To get it back to seaworthy state was estimated at £20K plus. More than others on sale ready to go.
My area is sailing boats. Any number on sale for peanuts. The problem, in UK, is where do you keep it. A berth in a marina would be more in a year tha the boat cost, esp on the S. Coast. Here is a bit better, but not cheap. When I was growing up, we kept our boats on moorings on the East Coast for little money. Now, any decent spot is viewed as a money earner by the owners and charged as such.
I will quit ranting and get back to building my little cruiser out in the boat shop....

 

[W.olly]

Nahh they paid to have it removed
Brave shout though

In a way yes as it cost to buy it lol. Brave or mad as some say, its a hobby, much the same as all the cars i have bought, and other boats, not a car yet has needed fixing in one way or another. This boat cost me £250 delivered, not bad if you now the cost of boat transport.

I think I should have looked into buying a new bare hull before taking that one on. You have a lot of guts I will give you that

No chance, cost way more.

 

[W.olly]

Mate needed to wrap copper pipe round a tube as part of an exhaust system on his classic boat reno. Think the tube was 15mm. radius about 30mm. He filled it with water and put it in the chest freezer. With the ice in it, it went round nicely by hand with no kinks for about 15 turns.

I have a home made version of the MM bender and made some curves in 19mm SS tube with a fabricated former and a delrin roller to pull it round. Acceptable bends with no kinking, but slightly flattened.

Nice job on the boat Wully. You were effectively starting with a hull and deck. What engine are you planning on?

Funnily enough, I am just finishing a 24mtr rail al round a boat in 40x20x2 mm stainless tube. The very tight curves are pie sliced and welded up (talking 2" rad) and the gentle ones along the boat are formed by gentle kinking every 100mm in the hydraulic press (like a cross-bow bender) Couldn't do it in the section roller bender, as the curve varies along the boat.

Think i have decided, i am collecting a Clarke 12 ton bender, usual one you see about, this weekend, this will do the pull/push pit as they are all large bends which i can do in small in small spaced bends, the rear rail will wait as no rush,and then i will do it from the ready made fittings, around £150 will do it. the top hand rails will be made from Sapele hardwood to match the rubbing strake. One large long one either side.

sorry to edit, it going to have an outboard, inboard would be good, but then whole new thing fitting one hey. The pulpit will not fit n the freezer either lol.

 

[tinman123]

i wouldnt use that spring unless its the last thing that i could use

ive bent 15mm not a problem often and sometimes got that spring stuck in it
same with 22mm bending around the knee
32mm is a swine to bend over the knee

i have a pair of them here somewhere but im with you on the downsides of them too, i was only thinking outside the cheap box tbh.
altho if used in combination with a pipe bender it would help to keep the kinks out of it and be in as good an environment as it could hope for.

 

[Kent]

In a way yes as it cost to buy it lol. Brave or mad as some say, its a hobby, much the same as all the cars i have bought, and other boats, not a car yet has needed fixing in one way or another. This boat cost me £250 delivered, not bad if you now the cost of boat transport.



No chance, cost way more.

But like all projects you don't know till you finish what the costs are lol

 

[addjunkie]

W.olly.....i am a time served marine engineer, i have worked or played on boats for 50 years, your a braver man than me taking that on. I started at 4. And yes i do know how much boat transport costs.

Now to engines. Fitting an inboard isnt so difficult, can be done quite cheaply if you marinise a diesel, theres plenty info on line. The hardest bit is getting it all to line up, but even that isnt so difficult with patience if you set your bearer beams in the correct place.

Leave 2 stroke outboards well alone, they will be dated no, noisey unreliable, un economical things. If buying an out board make sure you get the prop and controls with it, if you dont get the controls theres a good chance it is nicked. Controls and cables are bloody expensive, as are props. With props check the pitch, higher the number, more top speed less acceleration. Make sure the boss is correct to there are a few different ones. When fitting your outboard it needs to be slightly off center to allow for the throw of the prop, or the steering will be very heavy one way fighting against it.


Now some advice i was given by a multi millionaire boat owner, I assisted with some jobs, hes a family friend, no money changed hands. "If it flys, floats or f word meaning to have sex, it should be rented"

 

[AdrianH]

I made a bender for 19mm tube something like 2mm wall thickness and used it to do a 3 inch radius on my go cart I made, had inch and 3/4 inch tube in it, sure I posted some time ago, but anyhow here is a picture or two of the kart so you could see what bends it would do.



And the bender



It sits on top of a Clarke bender stand but sure you could fasten to something else if you wish to try.

You are not a million miles from Blackburn if you wish to borrow it or come up and try a bend.

Sure I could find the formers.

Adrian

 

[NickyEng]

Hi all, i am not far off, well this spring to need to start making the hand rails and bow rail for my boat. I will be using 3/4" ( 19mm ) polished stainless tube with a 1.5mm wall.

Now the idea is one i have seen using ally channel to make a kit car window frame.

Plywood 18mm to rest the tube on which has a radius of 3" ( 75mm ) then either side half way up the tube height again 18mm plywood, so sits about 10mm above the central part, then a madrel to form the tube around the radius, this way the tube will not splay out.

Now not sure if it will crinkle on the raduis.


Your thoughts

Hi mate, I am a Marine Engineer and hydraulic pipe fitter. For thin wall stainless tube do not buy the hydraulic 12 tonne crossbow type as in Clarke etc. They are for heavy walled steel pipe. You need a tube bender so pipe is supported between former and guide for entire radius of bends for crinkle free forming. I think you can see from below I know what I am talking about. I piped this beast

 

[dannyp]

outboards are hatefull things. never had a dipleasure of owning something with one but friends have, the 2 strokes are allways in bits, the big 4 strokes i get the inpression are fine till they've gone wrong once then they are never right again

 

[W.olly]

W.olly.....i am a time served marine engineer, i have worked or played on boats for 50 years, your a braver man than me taking that on. I started at 4. And yes i do know how much boat transport costs.

Now to engines. Fitting an inboard isnt so difficult, can be done quite cheaply if you marinise a diesel, theres plenty info on line. The hardest bit is getting it all to line up, but even that isnt so difficult with patience if you set your bearer beams in the correct place.

Leave 2 stroke outboards well alone, they will be dated no, noisey unreliable, un economical things. If buying an out board make sure you get the prop and controls with it, if you dont get the controls theres a good chance it is nicked. Controls and cables are bloody expensive, as are props. With props check the pitch, higher the number, more top speed less acceleration. Make sure the boss is correct to there are a few different ones. When fitting your outboard it needs to be slightly off center to allow for the throw of the prop, or the steering will be very heavy one way fighting against it.


Now some advice i was given by a multi millionaire boat owner, I assisted with some jobs, hes a family friend, no money changed hands. "If it flys, floats or f word meaning to have sex, it should be rented"

Yes i was going to to go with an inboard but with all i had to do on this......easier to drop a outboard on the back lol. Would be nice to a nicelittle diesel one though. Not sure i could fettle it for an inboard now due to the deck weight and getting in to fit one due to it all bonded in place now. I will be looking for a 4 stroke electric start, ha to many 2 stroke, and yep, darn noisy engines. Another thing was the weight, dependent on finished dry weight of the boat
i will want to trailer it about from season to season, canal first then cruise it up to to Windermere then maybe down North Wales to Colwyn Bay. Just get about a it with it, done canals for years, but then i get sea sick above 2 foot swell so even Windermere may get to rough lol. We will see.

I made a bender for 19mm tube something like 2mm wall thickness and used it to do a 3 inch radius on my go cart I made, had inch and 3/4 inch tube in it, sure I posted some time ago, but anyhow here is a picture or two of the kart so you could see what bends it would do.
View attachment 80131
View attachment 80133

And the bender

View attachment 80135

It sits on top of a Clarke bender stand but sure you could fasten to something else if you wish to try.

You are not a million miles from Blackburn if you wish to borrow it or come up and try a bend.

Sure I could find the formers.

Adrian

Thanks Adrian, that is a bit like what i had in mind to make myself, but from ply as i dont need many bends really and it worked on U channel ally. I will see what comes about and i may just take up the offer mate, cheers

Hi mate, I am a Marine Engineer and hydraulic pipe fitter. For thin wall stainless tube do not buy the hydraulic 12 tonne crossbow type as in Clarke etc. They are for heavy walled steel pipe. You need a tube bender so pipe is supported between former and guide for entire radius of bends for crinkle free forming. I think you can see from below I know what I am talking about. I piped this beast View attachment 80132 View attachment 80134 View attachment 80134 View attachment 80136

Nice work there Bet that kept you busy for a bit. I am, well was, going to get the clarke for just the bow rail as no sharp bends and it will come in for what ever else maybe in the future. I will think on it today now as i said to the chap i will have it this weekend.

Best shoot off, getting late for work.

Thanks all the the help