A little more than an inch but it's set up for road, the main benefit is that lifting from the wheels I'll gain the distance from the chassis to the ground plus bit for wheel drop in head room.Unrelated but how much drop do you actually get on the suspension when lifted?
Mine is a track based but has 4" total and only 1" of that is droop
A little more than an inch but it's set up for road, the main benefit is that lifting from the wheels I'll gain the distance from the chassis to the ground plus bit for wheel drop in head room.
I can see the point for storage so the the arms are lowest point but you could achieve the same by driving on to some blocks of wood and extending the pads fully then lifting the car. I sometimes have to do that on really low cars.
I can see the adapters being a load of hassle. I have a 2 post and 4 post at home and have worked on may car using a trolley jack because I couldn't be bothered to move the vehicles in the way and on the ramps. Once there is inconvenience you stop using things.
I think another solution would be two cross beams that had uplifts on the ends that just cleared the jacking pads when sat on the floor. If they had cups in the ends they couldn't move but would dead easy to take off and store. You could then have some marks on the floor for alignment and just drive on to them. For a 600kg car 25x25 frame with braces would be enough. Making them wider would limit the inward leverage on the arms.
Not the best picture but the plates on the beam could be moveable. The whole frame would be light enough to just lift away and hang on the wall.
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I like this idea a lot, I wonder how best to make them such that the overall width can be adjusted to accommodate different wheel bases....
I'd like to end up with something that I can park the Series 1 land rover (1200kg) on too ultimately.