- Thread starter scotta
- Start date
It still looks like a T100P...
And a photo of a test weld. You can see the bird droppings at the top of the photo. This was before the mod.
I can try to learn to weld now. Any advice? My welds always seem to want to sit on one side of the joint, rather than a nice fillet??
The welder now does not spatter anywhere as much as before and makes a nice crackle crackle when welding. Wire feed is nice and consistent but without any burn back control there is wire over run at the end of the weld which requires triming back. Hmm maybe a delay circuit to hold in the power relay for a tad after releasing the trigger....
And a photo of a test weld. You can see the bird droppings at the top of the photo. This was before the mod.
I can try to learn to weld now. Any advice? My welds always seem to want to sit on one side of the joint, rather than a nice fillet??
The welder now does not spatter anywhere as much as before and makes a nice crackle crackle when welding. Wire feed is nice and consistent but without any burn back control there is wire over run at the end of the weld which requires triming back. Hmm maybe a delay circuit to hold in the power relay for a tad after releasing the trigger....
Nice. Well done!
See this thread:
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=11532
When adding an independent wire-feed power supply on my SIP 130T, I wired a normally-open relay contact across the motor to act as a brake. This reduced run-on quite significantly.
See this thread:
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=11532
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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Is it still a 90 amp welder? The steel looks about 6mm which would be too thick for the 90. Should try practicing on 1.5mm or 2mm. It'll be easier to get the weld to flow to both sides of the joint when you have enough heat.
A tiny wiggle motion (only 1-2mm) can help stop the arc arcing to one sheet in preference to the other.
Noticed that burnback was reduced a lot moving from CO2 to argon mix on a similarly modified welder, though that's an expensive fix.
A tiny wiggle motion (only 1-2mm) can help stop the arc arcing to one sheet in preference to the other.
Noticed that burnback was reduced a lot moving from CO2 to argon mix on a similarly modified welder, though that's an expensive fix.
malcolm,
your right on the money. The 6mm plate I had laying around is way to thick for this little welder. I pulled out some 2mm sheet and the weld penetration and appearance is oh so much better!!
I want to build a fence out of 2 / 2.5mm RHS so should be ok. I just managed to pick up a 250amp stick welder for two cases of beer!! The big old brute should be usefull if I need to do some heavier work.
Any advice on using flux cored wire - anti spatter, slag clean up?
your right on the money. The 6mm plate I had laying around is way to thick for this little welder. I pulled out some 2mm sheet and the weld penetration and appearance is oh so much better!!
I want to build a fence out of 2 / 2.5mm RHS so should be ok. I just managed to pick up a 250amp stick welder for two cases of beer!! The big old brute should be usefull if I need to do some heavier work.
Any advice on using flux cored wire - anti spatter, slag clean up?
Hi Scotta. I just wanted to comment on the nice job you did with modifying and documenting the results. While most wire feed welders won't need this mod. the idea is the same for converting any AC welder to DC, which is what I am doing with an old stick welder. BTW, you may want to consider converting your stick welder to DC if it is AC only. Thanks for sharing!
What are the advantages of doing this? - SInce getting my MIG I haven't used the old stick welder
Most people say that DC arc is smoother and generally superior to AC arc, although I must say I haven't noticed much difference myself, with my modest gear - AC transformer vs DC inverter. As for MIG vs Arc ...
