underside of vehicle treatment ?

[Marky]

hi guys ! spent afew hours today under the mini with it up on stilts and iv got the floor down to bare metal and primed!!!

right heres my problem ... I hate under seal as i personally think after time water does get in and sits between the sealer and the body itself and to be honest i hate the stuff / messy and doesnt look good .

I was thinking of just priming / and painting body colour .

what do you guys think ? or what would you do or have done ?

help appreciated as always


marky

 

[rtbcomp]

Etch prime, then colour and then thick Waxoyl.

 

[Marky]

Etch prime, then colour and then thick Waxoyl.

its that was oil i dont like to be honest , never seems to "dry" and it attracts dirt ..... and looks hellish ..

I was thinking that stone chip stuff after primer then colour on top ?

 

[bigbadbugga]

Frost auto restorers do a good selection of treatments, many VW restorers use the POR15 range.

look here

make sure you follow the application instructions properly and this stuff is about the best available IMO

 

[Robotstar5]

POR 15's got my vote, used it on my RR chassis & looks good

 

[bert]

you cant beat a nice bit of hammerite for making it look nice though, i used red oxide under this as well.

 

[malcolm]

I would go for a primer that sticks really well (self etch or the like) then anti-stonechip in areas in the line of road spray, then colour. Lasts really well and is easy to repair and overpaint if things get damaged.

 

[simon718]

very nice bert! what motor is that?

 

[bert]

That was a Sierra XR4i, sadly stolen before I could finish it

 

[Shug]

On the underside of the manta, I used bilt hamber hydrate 80 (in retrospect I'd use their etchweld instead) then a couple coats of stonechip, then a coat of dinitrol 4914.
Should be highly resistant to abrasion and nothing for water to get under.

 

[aero]

I use something called LPS3, similiar to dinitrol. Spray it over what ever finish you use. I'd seal all the edges then go for primer and stone chip protector. Underseal is only really for hiding things from the MOT tester.

 

[johnny7]

a mate of mine was leaving to live down under and gave me a box full of car related stuff, polishes liquids and other stuff, in one of the bottles was some acidic stuff for treating rust, when painted on, it turns dark blue (like gun-blue), it leaves a plastic type of film that can be painted over..
it was brilliant stuff, i tried it on the tailgate latch on a mk4 cortina estate, the latch was set in a sort of square hole that was permenantly full of water, undo the two 10mm bolts and the water drained through the holes, so i let the hole dry completely and gave it a coat not really expecting it to be much good but three years later when it went to the scrappers, i removed the bolts to see how bad it was, dried it with a rag and it was the same as it was when i did the job three years earlier..
it sort of neutralised the rust..

the trouble is that the label has dissappeared after all the years in my garage and i can't remember who made it, just that it was well known manufacturer..

anyone recognise it from my description?
i tried some loctite stuff that went white- it was crap by comparison


john

 

[Shug]

Sounds kinda like kurust (made by hammerite I think). Hydrate 80 is similar stuff (but better I reckon)
Goes on blue and dries to a dark grey/black

 

[Marky]

bert, that looks great !

malcolm , your method seems to be what alot of new manufacturers do so i might go for that ! got the etch finished today .... neck is a bit stiff lol

 

[Antsuno2]

Im going to use raptor seal made by upol and is a truck bed liner, basicly its a 2 pack stonechip thats scratch/chip resistant and its tintable so looks the same colour as the vehicle, they use it on lanciasport forum with great results, well thats going under my italian!!! all the bilthamber product are good, then didntrol is the best waxoil as it has antirust properties and creap which means its gets in all the crevices, Ant!

 

[Robotstar5]

the trouble is that the label has dissappeared after all the years in my garage and i can't remember who made it, just that it was well known manufacturer..
anyone recognise it from my description?

Jenolite used to do something like that.

 

[eil]

Ive used kurust and the jenolite before, but the best one surprisingly I used was one made by or for turtlewax slapped it on an old mk1 fiesta and then a quick blow over, used as a second car. It went to the scrapyard without rusting through

 

[johnny7]

robotstar- you're a star!!. i'm sure it was jenolite now, been racking my brains for years wondering what it was and i'm certain now that it was indeed jenolite!!

cheers mate

john

 

[Blackjack]

Real answer is "Why?"

If you're doing it for a concours car, then you're stuck with a factory looking finish. That limits your options. Concours cars that are supposed to be black underneath can/will lose points for having a sprayed finish where it should be brushed, and vice versa...

On the other hand you might just want it to look nice. Question then is really how often are you going to use it and how often are you going to clean it? Etch, prime, stone chip, body colour and an occasional jetwash seems reasonable.

Then again, it's a Mini. How many leprechauns do you know? If no one can see it, then corrosion resistance coupled with low maintenance might well be more important than appearance.

Smoothrite seems to dissolve in oil/petrol and BL Minis seem to leak, that would rule that out for me.

Whatever you do, protecting the inside of things is at least as important.

 

[Marky]

Real answer is "Why?"

If you're doing it for a concours car, then you're stuck with a factory looking finish. That limits your options. Concours cars that are supposed to be black underneath can/will lose points for having a sprayed finish where it should be brushed, and vice versa...

On the other hand you might just want it to look nice. Question then is really how often are you going to use it and how often are you going to clean it? Etch, prime, stone chip, body colour and an occasional jetwash seems reasonable.

Then again, it's a Mini. How many leprechauns do you know? If no one can see it, then corrosion resistance coupled with low maintenance might well be more important than appearance.

Smoothrite seems to dissolve in oil/petrol and BL Minis seem to leak, that would rule that out for me.

Whatever you do, protecting the inside of things is at least as important.

blackjack ,

thanks you for that , that gives me more to think about . Basically I want the car as"rustproof" as far fetched as that may same on a mini [ not concours but thanks for the info] like you said as long as i can clean the sills [ the noticable parts] every once and a while and fo rthem to look / stay looking good , ill be happy . Also the car will only be used for local car shows in the summer so it should stay salt and road dirt free i hope .

when you say "Whatever you do, protecting the inside of things is at least as important." what do you mean exactly ?

cheers mark