- Thread starter bawjaws
- Start date
uphill T-join problem
Hi,
I have a problem with uphill arc welding T – join. I do not know how to join weld after electrode changing and do not make slag inclusion.
I use 6013 electrode, 2.5 mm diameter, AC welding machine (cheap supermarket machine), welding amperage hard to say but rather much so electrode do not stick but no undercutting, short arc, small movements side to side, quite fast up, electrode angle 80 – 90 deg.
I tried a lot of techniques to join weld well. I think I tried everything, short arc, long arc, fast and slow movement, different starting point and so on. Here some of them.
And the best what I find is that.
No slag but big convexity which will be a problem on next weld.
Please help me
PS
Sorry for my bad English
Hi,
I have a problem with uphill arc welding T – join. I do not know how to join weld after electrode changing and do not make slag inclusion.
I use 6013 electrode, 2.5 mm diameter, AC welding machine (cheap supermarket machine), welding amperage hard to say but rather much so electrode do not stick but no undercutting, short arc, small movements side to side, quite fast up, electrode angle 80 – 90 deg.
I tried a lot of techniques to join weld well. I think I tried everything, short arc, long arc, fast and slow movement, different starting point and so on. Here some of them.
And the best what I find is that.
No slag but big convexity which will be a problem on next weld.
Please help me
PS
Sorry for my bad English
Tigman
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,823
- Location
- Watford UK
try a single run first no weaving 65 - 70 amps 2.5 rod , angle of rod to weld 80 - 85 degrees , and 45 degrees to the joint , clean off and try a weave, pausing for a second at either side , dont pause in the middle ! when changing rod chip off slag and start a little below where you finished and start weaving again
For full pen on that size plate u need a 37 bevel or around that with about 2mm landing and also a 2-3mm gap between plates.
Also your rod choice could have been better genraly speaking 6010 is neally always the rod run for root pass because it is a fast freeze type rod also you might have more luck with 7018 aswell.
6013 is more of a genral purpose rod not for filling gaps so to speak but after running a root you can fill and cap with it
Good luck
Also your rod choice could have been better genraly speaking 6010 is neally always the rod run for root pass because it is a fast freeze type rod also you might have more luck with 7018 aswell.
6013 is more of a genral purpose rod not for filling gaps so to speak but after running a root you can fill and cap with it
Good luck
gav the welder
Member
- Messages
- 106
id say wiv a t fillet u best keep ur arc lenght nice and consistant i found that keeping the rod at a 90 degree angle to the joint helped me wen i learned .
wen going up count to 2 then the flick across to the other side count to 2 then go up a couple of mill say a rod diameter punch the rod into the corner to get the penetration
then come back down over lapping the slag of your last run .
then repeat as you go .
as with re starting with a new rod grind back your stop starts and clean your slag out .
grind it back say half an inch and feather it out into the corner of the fillet .
if you find that you are struggling with the vertical just try tilting it a little bit forward so you have gravity more on your side and you can try and get the hang of it that way and gradually tilt it more towards yourself as you go on .
hope this makes sense , and hope it helps you out a bit
cheers gav
wen going up count to 2 then the flick across to the other side count to 2 then go up a couple of mill say a rod diameter punch the rod into the corner to get the penetration
then come back down over lapping the slag of your last run .
then repeat as you go .
as with re starting with a new rod grind back your stop starts and clean your slag out .
grind it back say half an inch and feather it out into the corner of the fillet .
if you find that you are struggling with the vertical just try tilting it a little bit forward so you have gravity more on your side and you can try and get the hang of it that way and gradually tilt it more towards yourself as you go on .
hope this makes sense , and hope it helps you out a bit
cheers gav
try a single run first no weaving 65 - 70 amps 2.5 rod , angle of rod to weld 80 - 85 degrees , and 45 degrees to the joint , clean off and try a weave, pausing for a second at either side , dont pause in the middle ! when changing rod chip off slag and start a little below where you finished and start weaving again
I agree with Tigman ,
On the root run I used to move the rod tip in little circles as I moved up,
On some proceedures you cannot weave more than 3 times the dia of the rod.
you can also block out by useing triangle arrow head pattern
If it is falling out the middle you are moving to slow across the middle ,don't forget to pause on the edges to burn them in,the pause is a feel more than a time span.
Bill Edwards
Member
- Messages
- 4,959
- Location
- Scarborough, North Yorkshire
This thread was last replied to nearly six years ago, I suspect that by now the OP has either got the hang of it or given up!
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 5,767
- Location
- Manchester UK
Check out the Lincoln Electric Stick Electrode Welding Guide.
They recommend a whipping technique. I have yet to master it though
For those of you who want to find this guide it has moved to here:
https://marcomcentral.app.pti.com/d...spx?uigroup_id=18186&product_id=236&node_id=0
Yes, I know this is an old thread. Hence the update.
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Mate it was a decade ago he was fighting with this.
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 18,373
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Flipping hell who bumped the poxy thing
Liquid Metal
Member
- Messages
- 482
- Location
- Essex, UK
Anynody know if he cracked it in the end?? Lol
