Uregent Help Needed Please!!!

[3pinplug]

Hi all

I have a set of forward controls I am trying to remove from my motorbike, part of which necessitates the need to weld a nut onto a section of threaded rod in order to be able to turn the threaded rod and remove it from the recess it currently passes through. I have tried mig welding (with my blue coloured Clarke Weld Turbo 130TE mig welder with bottle of Co2/ Argon gas - pic attached of seeting available) but when I let the nut cool after welding it on and then turn it with a spanner theres a little resistance but then it just rips away from the top of the threaded rod. The weld does not seeem to be penetrating the threaded rod, I have taken some pics of the nuts that I have welded and broken away - these are just plain steel - no coatinmg at all.

Can I ask for your advice as hoping from the attached pics you can poi nt me in the right direction to resolving the issue.
I am not a welder so hence the question and request for some help.
Thanks
Mark

 

[ajlelectronics]

You need far more current to be able to fuse the items fully, possibly more than your machine may be capable of?

 

[Seadog]

It doesn't look like you're getting enough wire into the nut so that the arc strikes on the stud.

 

[ajlelectronics]

It doesn't look like you're getting enough wire into the nut so that the arc strikes on the stud.

Which is also highly likely. You need to concentrate the heat on the largest mass and let it "bleed" to the lower mass parts.

 

[julianf]

Can you wind the nut on further, so then you're certain to be hitting the studding?

In my life, I only need to look wrong at studding, for nuts to start to bind. Get a bit of weld spatter on the thread and it will certainly bind up!

 

[chrismac]

Is there room for the threaded rod to protrude through the nut even just a few mm, that will help you get a bit onto the rod before the hole in the nut fills up.

Julianf got in with a reply with the same advice first

 

[Beanwood]

Is the gas turned on, and what is the flow rate.
Are you aiming at the stud first then moving towards the nut? You don’t appear to be getting enough heat in the stud for the weld to penetrate the stud- can you show us a picture of that please?

 

[GRW]

Weld a washer onto the rod first maybe, then weld a nut on?

 

[gaz1]

both the rod and the nut are too thick to weld with the machine you have

you need an arc welder or 3 car batterys + the rods needed to arc weld

 

[3pinplug]

Hi all,
Firstly, thank you for all the very quick responses, much appreciated.
I have taken some more pics as requested and enclose some answers to the quesions as well.
The M10 stud is protruding by 6mm as shown in pic , I have tried placing both an M10 and M12 nut on there without success, should I use a bigger nut to allow weld to go down the side of the threaded bar as well, just noticedi am only making contach with end of rod only. I am using gas and have vairied regulator from 3.5 to 6 to even max and still no joy, i have gas flow as you can hear it when you presse the trigger.
Hope the attached pics help if anymore are required, let me know and I will take them.

 

[RWD3M]

I have a Cebora 130 and have successfully welded nuts onto locking wheel nuts (to remove them when the adaptor has gone walkies!) many times with it. As long as they aren't M22 your Clarke should be capable. You'll likely need it cranked up to it's highest powere setting to do it though.

 

[skotl]

Hi all,
Firstly, thank you for all the very quick responses, much appreciated.
I have taken some more pics as requested and enclose some answers to the quesions as well.
The M10 stud is protruding by 6mm as shown in pic , I have tried placing both an M10 and M12 nut on there without success, should I use a bigger nut to allow weld to go down the side of the threaded bar as well, just noticedi am only making contach with end of rod only. I am using gas and have vairied regulator from 3.5 to 6 to even max and still no joy, i have gas flow as you can hear it when you presse the trigger.
Hope the attached pics help if anymore are required, let me know and I will take them.

View attachment 477664 View attachment 477665 View attachment 477666

That looks very do-able. Sadly, I'm not sure what to recommend as everything you've tried would be what I would do / have done. I guess the main trick is going to be making sure the wire definitely starts on the rod rather than the nut. Then I'd let it sit there for slightly longer than feels comfortable to make sure it's penetrating the rod, then start winding round the nut.

 

[Seadog]

Your welding heat is going into a large heat sink. Get it red hot.

 

[skotl]

Your welding heat is going into a large heat sink. Get it red hot.

Actually, on that, might be handy to start it off with a mapp gas torch or similar

 

[julianf]

Hi all,
Firstly, thank you for all the very quick responses, much appreciated.
I have taken some more pics as requested and enclose some answers to the quesions as well.
The M10 stud is protruding by 6mm as shown in pic , I have tried placing both an M10 and M12 nut on there without success, should I use a bigger nut to allow weld to go down the side of the threaded bar as well, just noticedi am only making contach with end of rod only. I am using gas and have vairied regulator from 3.5 to 6 to even max and still no joy, i have gas flow as you can hear it when you presse the trigger.
Hope the attached pics help if anymore are required, let me know and I will take them.

View attachment 477664 View attachment 477665 View attachment 477666

Make really sure that, if you use a larger nut, you can still spin it against the side.

Imagine getting it to hold and then not actually being able to turn it!

 

[Beanwood]

Does the rod go all the way through or is it short and screwed in to the alloy? If it goes through is it definitely screwed and not just stuck?
What is the other end?

 

[Nomad]

Make sure you start welding on the stud first.

Do you have a thin (half) nut you can try so the end of the stud is level with the nut, makes it easier to welrf onto the stud.

Good quality mole grips - one with decent teeth not cheap ones with soft Jaws.

 

[3pinplug]

Hi All, yes the threaded rod goes all the way through, i could give it a gentle tap and see if it frees it up, I did lock some mole grip son there but they spun before the rod moved but i will try that again. I will also get the rod heated with a blow lamp first then weld it as suggestde, willhave to give me a few days untilther other side of christmas and I will report back. Thnaks for lall the info and siggestions i will getbusy when I can.
Have a great christmas.

 

[RWD3M]

Go steady with that blow torch, that's an alloy casing it's in!

 

[Pete.]

Where in Kent are you? If you can get to Wainscott I'll remove it for you.