Uregent Help Needed Please!!!

[Windy Miller]

Where in Kent are you? If you can get to Wainscott I'll remove it for you.

I was just going to offer the same thing! If you’re anywhere near Strood or Wainscott you have a choice of 2 people/places now!

 

[Wozzaaah]

Your gas flow is insufficient, you can see that weld is extremely porous.
If you're welding outside then you need to set up a windbreak, if you're inside then you haven't got your gas flow set correctly.
As GRW says, first weld a washer onto the stub, then weld the biggest nut you can get away with on top. That way you can get loads of weld metal into the joint.
Make sure you don't go too big that you can't get a socket on it though.

 

[Onthespotwelding]

@Pete. @Windy Miller

I’m also in kent near sandwich.

I’m not offering to help the op, I’m far to busy drinking port

 

[voipio]

Give the end of the threaded rod a clean back to bright metal, before welding. That will give the molten metal a better chance of fusing with the rod. Also, where is the earthing clamp attached? Ideally to an exposed part of the rod.

 

[roofman]

Your welding heat is going into a large heat sink. Get it red hot.

was going to say this myself...often you can cheat with a small machine by getting the metal cherry red 1st before you weld it.

 

[Farside]

I'd not be surprised if that threaded rod is just a bodge from a PO to hold the controls on, and the rod has become thoroughly corroded into the hole it passes through.
So many bodgers never think of putting anti-sieze on motorcycle mounting bolts.

 

[snotters64]

Drill a hole (3/4mm) in the end of the of the threaded rod ,4/5 mm deep will suffice ,place the nut over the rod ,press the shroud/wire of the mig gun against said nut making sure you centre the mig shroud/wire on the nut weld it flush . This has worked well for me in the past

 

[Hotstuff]

Even if you do manage to weld the nut on, if the threaded rod just passes through the crank case and not into a thread, all this effort is not likely to be fruitful.

Have you tried a bit of heat, penetrating fluid and drifting it out?

 

[chip]

Ive had a similar issue in the past, on an exhaust manifold,pretty sure i drilled a hole slight larger than the broken bolt through a bit of 3mm flat bar , placed over the broken bolt and just puddle welded the thing.

 

[3pinplug]

Hi all
Will try to answer some of the points above:-
1.Will get it warm then try welding as suggested.
2.no idea if threaded or just pushed throught, i know it doesn't moved have tried hitting with a drift but dont want to hit too hard in case i damage the casing it passi g through, hence why i went with the nut method to turn and hopefully free it.
3. Unfortunately i have completely taken front end off for bearing and fork seals etc as bike is being rebuilt. i cannot get it over to wainsscott, I am over on isle if sheppy if either of you would bring welder and remove rod, would cover fuel and a bit extra for help. PM me if thats possible.
4. The drilling option is a good idea but will only be able to do this with a good weld going in as i would risk snapping rod off if i got it wrong. Thanks again for all the suggestions and offers of help , really appreciated. Mark

 

[Fintray]

My thoughts are that it used to be a bolt that went through as if they were both studs how would you get the supports from the frame fitted.
If it's that stuck I would place the bike on its side place some putty around the rod to create a bowl and fill with diesel or release fluid, leave it to soak for a day or two, heat the casing with a blowtorch (carefully) or a hot air gun the give the rod a whack with a drift.

 

[Beanwood]

What's on the other end of the threaded bar you're trying to weld to?

 

[Onoff]

Could you turn down two M10 nuts to 3mm each then put those on. One would lock onto the other.

I'm in Kent as well...so if you want to go the welding route and a proper job I'd see @Pete. or @Windy Miller

 

[sg66]

Check gas flow, make sure all connections on your welder are good, clean and make sure you have a good connection for return clamp, turn welder to max, it should be more than capable of welding that.

 

[Windy Miller]

Hi all
Will try to answer some of the points above:-
1.Will get it warm then try welding as suggested.
2.no idea if threaded or just pushed throught, i know it doesn't moved have tried hitting with a drift but dont want to hit too hard in case i damage the casing it passi g through, hence why i went with the nut method to turn and hopefully free it.
3. Unfortunately i have completely taken front end off for bearing and fork seals etc as bike is being rebuilt. i cannot get it over to wainsscott, I am over on isle if sheppy if either of you would bring welder and remove rod, would cover fuel and a bit extra for help. PM me if thats possible.
4. The drilling option is a good idea but will only be able to do this with a good weld going in as i would risk snapping rod off if i got it wrong. Thanks again for all the suggestions and offers of help , really appreciated. Mark

Sorry Mate - I’ve only got a few days off work and I’m committed to family stuff and household repairs with (hopefully) a couple of days sorting out my workshop, so I doubt if I’ll have time to come over to you on the Island.

Happy to have a crack if you can get it over to me in Strood tho!

 

[3pinplug]

Its just threaded rod protruding either side then it had a captive end domed nut fitted either side , the mounts for the forward controls were then aligned and the threaded bar ( cut to a perfect length) then either pushed through or wound through the two brackets and the the captive nots fitted. With the brackets fitted i can ot look into the hole the threaded rod is in as covered by the brackets. The thread is pretty bad, i will look the other side and see what thats like.

 

[3pinplug]

Hi windy miller, thanks for the offer but cant get it over. much appreciated. mark

 

[sg66]

You could also cut through the bracket on that side in the middle and slide that off the stud out the road, you can weld it back together later, should give you enough room to thread the nut on further or put 2 thin nuts on and lock them together to unscrew it