Urgent help

[EAZEE]

1.5mm is tough man.

 

[Richard.]

Hi thanks for reply
But what does electro negative mean and 6013 ?

30 years since I have stick welded a little bit rusty to say the least

Electrode negative is swapping the polarity over. So putting your stinger in the negative dins socket and your work return in the positive. This puts current into work piece rather than the electrode and the result is lower penetration which can only help you out.
Not all electrodes like to be run in negative polarity so check first but 6013's are happy enough either way round.
You've picked the wrong process for the job really. Yes it's doable but it's a chore and it's a messy unpredictable one at that. If that was my job and it really needed to be welded with your kit I'd be looking towards a cheap valved tig torch and doing it with lift arc tig. Much neater and no holes or slag to contend with. Either way galv is ultimately your enemy here. You won't remove it all especially if it's inside and trying to do so is only gonna make your metal thinner as you attack it with abrasives.which makes your stick welding challenges even more challenging.
As Paul said originally just bolt it.

 

[itsshreck]

Hi guys thanks for reply
Mig was my first choice trouble is registering for gas etc
Bottles here very expensive

And to rub salt into the wound I sold ( nearly give away)
A perfectly good cebora mig welder and a full bottle of argon in the uk

Grrrrrrr

As to how far holding rod you name it and I have tried it
Different distances / angles/ then bang my head again

What is really annoying is the other stuff is passable I no its not brilliant but it won't be seen and it won't fall apart

 

[Member 66061]

Try 1.6mm rods. You could try welding it in short bursts, like 10mm then let it cool, then another 10mm, etc..

 

[itsshreck]

Try 1.6mm rods. You could try welding it in short bursts, like 10mm then let it cool, then another 10mm, etc..

Hi thanks for reply tried that as well

 

[the snooper]

Try 1.6mm rods. You could try welding it in short bursts, like 10mm then let it cool, then another 10mm, etc..

horrible things small rods

 

[Paul.]

If I had to weld that with stick I would use a 2.5 electrode, with anything smaller the amount of flux / slag ratio to the electrode core is far greater and gets in the way, makes the pool difficult to see and control and causes the slag inclusions, run them at about 70 amps and keep the very arc tight, even drag the electrode along the joint, if possible set the joint up so that you are welding downhill a bit, not too much though about 10 deg is enough, its perfectly doable with a bit of practice.
When I used to teach welding a looong time ago before mig and tig was as common in fab shops as it is now, one of the exercises was a 4" long closed butt in 1.5mm sheet, most managed it without too much drama,
There is another method useful in controlling burn though used to be called broken arc technique, similar to the so called thin metal method used with mig, a series of overlapping tacks, you strike then break the arc, then while its still glowing red hot strike again, its important though to make sure the restrike happens before the slag cools or it will become trapped as a slag inclusion.

 

[itsshreck]

If I had to weld that with stick I would use a 2.5 electrode, with anything smaller the amount of flux / slag ratio to the electrode core is far greater and gets in the way, makes the pool difficult to see and control and causes the slag inclusions, run them at about 70 amps and keep the very arc tight, even drag the electrode along the joint, if possible set the joint up so that you are welding downhill a bit, not too much though about 10 deg is enough, its perfectly doable with a bit of practice.
When I used to teach welding a looong time ago before mig and tig was as common in fab shops as it is now, one of the exercises was a 4" long closed butt in 1.5mm sheet, most managed it without too much drama,
There is another method useful in controlling burn though used to be called broken arc technique, similar to the so called thin metal method used with mig, a series of overlapping tacks, you strike then break the arc, then while its still glowing red hot strike again, its important though to make sure the restrike happens before the slag cools or it will become trapped as a slag inclusion.

Hi thanks for your advice much appreciated

 

[Member 66061]

There is another method useful in controlling burn though used to be called broken arc technique, similar to the so called thin metal method used with mig, a series of overlapping tacks, you strike then break the arc, then while its still glowing red hot strike again, its important though to make sure the restrike happens before the slag cools or it will become trapped as a slag inclusion.

This was what i was trying to describe in my post -

Try 1.6mm rods. You could try welding it in short bursts, like 10mm then let it cool, then another 10mm, etc..

But i couldnt think of a good way of describing it and didnt know it had a name.
I have a rural upbringing, agricultural background and have had to help with make do and mend repairs in poorly equipped farm workshops, so im quite used to random acts of desperation to get things fixed with limited options.

 

[itsshreck]

This was what i was trying to describe in my post -

But i couldnt think of a good way of describing it and didnt know it had a name.
I have a rural upbringing, agricultural background and have had to help with make do and mend repairs in poorly equipped farm workshops, so im quite used to random acts of desperation to get things fixed with limited options.

Thanks for your help

 

[cocker]

If I had to weld that with stick I would use a 2.5 electrode, with anything smaller the amount of flux / slag ratio to the electrode core is far greater and gets in the way, makes the pool difficult to see and control and causes the slag inclusions, run them at about 70 amps and keep the very arc tight, even drag the electrode along the joint, if possible set the joint up so that you are welding downhill a bit, not too much though about 10 deg is enough, its perfectly doable with a bit of practice.
When I used to teach welding a looong time ago before mig and tig was as common in fab shops as it is now, one of the exercises was a 4" long closed butt in 1.5mm sheet, most managed it without too much drama,
There is another method useful in controlling burn though used to be called broken arc technique, similar to the so called thin metal method used with mig, a series of overlapping tacks, you strike then break the arc, then while its still glowing red hot strike again, its important though to make sure the restrike happens before the slag cools or it will become trapped as a slag inclusion.

That's the ticket .

Also , not being funny , can you see what your doing ?

 

[baconbarm]

Hi, it sounds like simple inexperience basically buddy. maybe just get scrap pieces and practice practice practice .
2.5 rods I'd use.
Maybe do a quick straight run on the radius section to build it up and effectively make the gap smaller ?

 

[HughF]

Doesn't look galvanised, looks like zinc and clear passivate which is totally different, and easily weldable.

Lack of experience and 2mm rods is your problem, you need to be running 2.5's with a machine that has a decent amount of arc force.

 

[itsshreck]

Doesn't look galvanised, looks like zinc and clear passivate which is totally different, and easily weldable.

Lack of experience and 2mm rods is your problem, you need to be running 2.5's with a machine that has a decent amount of arc force.

Hi thanks for your advice

 

[itsshreck]

That's the ticket .

Also , not being funny , can you see what your doing ?

Hi thanks for reply
And yes nice sunshine and good eye sight

 

[Kent]

Hi thanks for reply
But what does electro negative mean and 6013 ?

30 years since I have stick welded a little bit rusty to say the least

Most stick is done electrode positive earth negative. Turn them around and you limit penetrating, welding downhill works also. Not good practice generally on making the strongest welds but on 1.5mm it's a ruse we use and just fine

 

[Kent]

If I had to weld that with stick I would use a 2.5 electrode, with anything smaller the amount of flux / slag ratio to the electrode core is far greater and gets in the way, makes the pool difficult to see and control and causes the slag inclusions, run them at about 70 amps and keep the very arc tight, even drag the electrode along the joint, if possible set the joint up so that you are welding downhill a bit, not too much though about 10 deg is enough, its perfectly doable with a bit of practice.
When I used to teach welding a looong time ago before mig and tig was as common in fab shops as it is now, one of the exercises was a 4" long closed butt in 1.5mm sheet, most managed it without too much drama,
There is another method useful in controlling burn though used to be called broken arc technique, similar to the so called thin metal method used with mig, a series of overlapping tacks, you strike then break the arc, then while its still glowing red hot strike again, its important though to make sure the restrike happens before the slag cools or it will become trapped as a slag inclusion.

Call it bobbing in the broken arc technique never heard that or forgot it along the way

 

[HughF]

 

[Paul.]

Gruesome, if he worked for me he would be working in the paintshop.

 

[HughF]

Out here in Asia where it appears everything that isn't 'proper' is stick welded, it's always with the broken arc technique. I found a better video months ago by accident, but can't find it now