using a Mini Belt Sander

[BrokenBiker]

have you tried using it with the screw just loose enough to allow the spring to hold the belt under tension? Also are you using cheap belts? We had a few on a linisher in work that lasted all of a minute before they stretched or snagged up. Got a few more in that were a few pence more expensive and lasted weeks

 

[Flapdisk]

Yes mate, I said earlier in the thread, if I leave it just loose enough for the spring to work, it vibrates out and falls apart.
They are Zirconia belts, I don't know if they are any good?

 

[BrokenBiker]

ah right, missed that post sorry. Looking at the pics and what i can find online it would appear it dies need locking off as already mentioned. Only thing i can suggest is when its all set up with the belt tight and locked off mark it with something so you can see if anything is moving under vibration causing the problem.

this is the main reason i stick with a double cut bastard file

 

[Wallace]

Try adding washers to pre-loading the spring and increase the tension.

 

[Wallace]

Looks like there is tracking adjustment. The adjusting plate (51) is held in place with two countersunk screws (52) and there is a spring (53) in a counterbored hole on the support (49). Adjusting the countersunk screws tracks the belt.

95115-45Hex. Socket Head Cap BoltB2-0412A
95115-4617616Roller (2)BS-10046
95115-4717618Ball BearingBB-06952
95115-4817612ShaftBS-10048
95115-49SupportBS-10A49
95115-50SpringBS-10050
951 15-51Adjusting PlateBS-10A51
95115-52Rat Conuntersunk ScrewS2-4014A
95115-53SpringBS-10A53
95115-54Fixing ScrewBS-10A54
95115-55Sanding BeltBS-10052A
95115-56Spring WasherSW2-040A
95115-57WasherBS-10054

 

[Flapdisk]

Hi Wallace, thanks for that mate, yup! check post 16 line five. Will do BB sounds like a plan. I was thinking, as the long screw which locks it off does not come through the block, if I get a longer screw so it bottoms out and can be tightened before locking the spring, she should be good to go.
If I keep grinding a bit off the tip of the screw until it's tight as possible but the slide can just still move freely, that should work shouldn't it?

 

[pedrobedro]

So you set the tracking with the little set screws before you tighten the cheese head screw to lock it and the spring just tensions the belt till you tighten the screw.

 

[Flapdisk]

So you set the tracking with the little set screws before you tighten the cheese head screw to lock it and the spring just tensions the belt till you tighten the screw.

Hi mate, simple answer is yes, although you can get to the screws to set the tracking when it's assembled and running, see picture 5th one down in my post on page one. makes no difference whether the set screw is tight or not, as you can see in the 4th picture down, the plate holding the front roller can move on the spring block when it's fixed.

 

[anjum]

What are the best belts for these? The ones I've got rip up almost immediately.

 

[armalites]

3M belts are very good, it's easy to sucked into the they cost much debate but the reality is if the ones you rip up it gets very tedious. I also find the ones in larger grit sizes don't last as well

I have exactly the same belt grinder and with that design I find I have to nip the screw up once the belt has tightened or screw vibrates out as already mentioned

 

[JohnH]

Surely screw 54 needs a spring washer to stop it vibrating loose?

 

[Fixer]

It's known as a finger sander there are lots on Ebay Mr. Frog Black and Wrecker do an electric one called the Powerfile, quieter, cheaper to run than an air tool.

I used to call the one i used at work a "de-burrer" since all anyone ever used it for was removing burrs from punched or gilotined sheet parts. It was a mains power Bosch one. Was that green they use for DIY tools rather than the blue pro stuff but never missed a beat and outlasted me in the job. I would imagine you can get cordless ones these days.

 

[Flapdisk]

What I did in the end was screw a small grub screw with a hex drive hole into screw 54's hole prior to screw 54, and then kept adjusting (Screwing it in) until I could tighten screw 54 with it not quite pinching against the body. That way the roller assy. was just free to move and keep spring tension on the belt. Works well.

 

[Wallace]

What I did in the end was screw a small grub screw with a hex drive hole into screw 54's hole prior to screw 54, and then kept adjusting (Screwing it in) until I could tighten screw 54 with it not quite pinching against the body. That way the roller assy. was just free to move and keep spring tension on the belt. Works well.

I was just posting that exact solution.......

 

[MrFluffy]

I would have just put the screw on the bench and hit it a few times with a small ball pein hammer to distort the thread a bit so it still wound in but was tight, but then I occasionally worship at the shrine of ecky thump

 

[Flapdisk]

Ahhhh, great minds Wall.

 

[Flapdisk]

The big hommer cure all

 

[Wallace]

Many moons ago I used a well abused 13mm Black & Decker belt sander at an injection moulding company thinking it was going to be a bit more of a toy than a tool and ended up buying myself one. It's a bit tired out now but as it's seldom used I keep fixing it then I look at the air powered ones and wonder, should buy one? Air would be better on metals as even with suction the B&D has a habit of getting a build up of filings on the control board then flashing across with a bang blowing the fuse!

 

[Flapdisk]

Strewth! Wall. that's a bad design for it to do that. I haven't bought anything B & D for many years, I had some of their tools back in the eighties, Drill still works! but I don't think they make their stuff as well as they used to.

 

[Wallace]

I think B&D charge a bit more and sell their good stuff as DeWalt these days.