- Thread starter welkman
- Start date
Rob - The top of the drill is 6.5" wide and it is minimum 20.5" long from the outside of the 2 pulleys, though mine hasn't the original motor fitted so that dimension might not be correct.
I also noticed that the quill return spring & housing are missing. The hole it sits in is 51.45mm diameter, I would be interested in this as well if you have one.
I also noticed that the quill return spring & housing are missing. The hole it sits in is 51.45mm diameter, I would be interested in this as well if you have one.
Just been to find the drill stuff. I measured the top of the drill body and it measures 6.5" I no longer have a motor on it so it is hard to say but by looking at the cover I think you would probably just about get 20.5" inside it. I don't have a camera or phone or anything but if you want a photo I could probably get one for you.
Cheers
Here are some pics of my Kerrys Super 8
I'm also missing one of the levers for winding down the spindle - Rob can you help?
It is painted a bronze/gold colour which is a colour very occasionally used by Kerry according to Tony on the lathes.co.uk site.
This is where the quill return spring should be.
It should have a housing and spring similar to this one on my Meddings drill.
It has the usual drill marks on the table.
Mine came fitted with this quick clamp. You slide it down the column until the foot is on your workpiece. Then you rotate the handle which operates a cam and clamps down the workpiece.
I'm also missing one of the levers for winding down the spindle - Rob can you help?
It is painted a bronze/gold colour which is a colour very occasionally used by Kerry according to Tony on the lathes.co.uk site.
This is where the quill return spring should be.
It should have a housing and spring similar to this one on my Meddings drill.
It has the usual drill marks on the table.
Mine came fitted with this quick clamp. You slide it down the column until the foot is on your workpiece. Then you rotate the handle which operates a cam and clamps down the workpiece.
I thought I'd do a guide on how the back gear works on this drill. It works more or less the same way as those fitted to many lathes like myfords so it might help people understand them better.
This is the back gear mechanism.
In normal use the pulley is driven by the motor, the pulley is connected to the spindle gear by the locking pin. The spindle gear drives the spindle via a sliding key.
To engage back gear you do the following.
Pull up the locking pin, allowing the spindle gear and pulley to rotate independent of each other.
Pull up the knob, rotate it 180 deg & push it back down. This rotates the eccentric shaft on the back gear until it meshes with the spindle gear & bottom gear.
It should look like this when in back gear.
The bottom gear is connected to the pulley and rotates with it. The bottom gear turns the large back gear which turns the small back gear, that turns the spindle gear and finally the spindle.
The back gear gives a 7.14:1 reduction ratio which results in a very useful range of speeds.
Back Gear - 84, 154, 250 & 460 rpm
Direct Gear - 617, 1100, 1880 & 3360 rpm
By simply pulling out a pin & turning a knob you can quickly swap from 1100 to 154 rpm - no messing around with belts. This is handy for going from pilot drill to large drill.
I hope this helps somebody.
This is the back gear mechanism.
In normal use the pulley is driven by the motor, the pulley is connected to the spindle gear by the locking pin. The spindle gear drives the spindle via a sliding key.
To engage back gear you do the following.
Pull up the locking pin, allowing the spindle gear and pulley to rotate independent of each other.
Pull up the knob, rotate it 180 deg & push it back down. This rotates the eccentric shaft on the back gear until it meshes with the spindle gear & bottom gear.
It should look like this when in back gear.
The bottom gear is connected to the pulley and rotates with it. The bottom gear turns the large back gear which turns the small back gear, that turns the spindle gear and finally the spindle.
The back gear gives a 7.14:1 reduction ratio which results in a very useful range of speeds.
Back Gear - 84, 154, 250 & 460 rpm
Direct Gear - 617, 1100, 1880 & 3360 rpm
By simply pulling out a pin & turning a knob you can quickly swap from 1100 to 154 rpm - no messing around with belts. This is handy for going from pilot drill to large drill.
I hope this helps somebody.
Rob - have you been able to check out what's left of your drill? The parts I'm after are the top cover, quill return spring mechanism and one of the levers for winding down the spindle.
cheers, Turbo
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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@Turbo do you still have the Super 8? If so, there's a guy on another forum I'm on who wants a picture of the following as he's renovating one as follows. It's mainly the bit that supports the cover that he's missing.
"I have recently acquired an old Kerry Super 8 that had not been used for many years. I was suprised to find that the column is in excellent condition, I have removed, cleaned and rebuilt the drill. However whilst I have the top cover and the rear arm, the front assembly is missing. Does anyone have a similar machine who could send me some photos so i can fabricate one.
I think that in the future I will need to replace the bearings in the quill, does anyone know what type and size they are?
I have the small solid arm on the front bracket but I don't have any details of the mechanism which attaches to the cover. I understand that there might be a spring involved to keep the cover in the up position, but I've never seen any details or even if the spring is correct."
Cheers
Andy
"I have recently acquired an old Kerry Super 8 that had not been used for many years. I was suprised to find that the column is in excellent condition, I have removed, cleaned and rebuilt the drill. However whilst I have the top cover and the rear arm, the front assembly is missing. Does anyone have a similar machine who could send me some photos so i can fabricate one.
I think that in the future I will need to replace the bearings in the quill, does anyone know what type and size they are?
I have the small solid arm on the front bracket but I don't have any details of the mechanism which attaches to the cover. I understand that there might be a spring involved to keep the cover in the up position, but I've never seen any details or even if the spring is correct."
Cheers
Andy
have a good holiday.
Hello,
I'm a little late to the party, but I have a Mk1 Super 8, with a Hoover 1/3 HP motor and original MEM Co. Auto Memota starter.
I've just fully stripped, cleaned and rebuilt it, along with new bearings. I have over 100 photos of the rebuild and happy to help and share photos if useful.
I'm a little late to the party, but I have a Mk1 Super 8, with a Hoover 1/3 HP motor and original MEM Co. Auto Memota starter.
I've just fully stripped, cleaned and rebuilt it, along with new bearings. I have over 100 photos of the rebuild and happy to help and share photos if useful.
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
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- Scottish Highlands
Welcome aboard
- that's a kind offer and may help someone else with the same machine in the future. 
I see you suffer from the same as many of us....shrinking floor space.
Just out of interest, how do you drain that compressor tank? 
