Water Trap Regulator Damaged Faulty

[Pollys13]

The water trap regulator combo, as I mentioned I had a friend over Sunday to help try to adjust the system. He didn't lift up the locking collar before rotating the knob, he used his full strength trying to turn the knob. Is locked in position now, won't go either way. Do members think the trap regulator is damaged and beyond repair? Also before any air is introduced, as you can see in the photo, the regulator gauge has not reset to zero , also it has fogged over a bit, been like that for a while.

 

[Dcal]

Take it apart and see what wrong with it.
Does the locking cap engage and disengage?
I'd guess the plastic threads have picked up or he has locked the adjusting cap against the locking ring (if it has one) but without getting into it you'll never find out.

They are a simple tool and only have a few parts.
Do a search for your regulator, you might find a parts drawing of it online.

Did it come with any instructions?
You might already have a parts breakdown.

 

[Pollys13]

Take it apart and see what wrong with it.
Does the locking cap engage and disengage?
I'd guess the plastic threads have picked up or he has locked the adjusting cap against the locking ring (if it has one) but without getting into it you'll never find out.

They are a simple tool and only have a few parts.
Do a search for your regulator, you might find a parts drawing of it online.

Did it come with any instructions?
You might already have a parts breakdown.

I can engage and disengage the locking cap

" They are a simple tool and only have a few parts." Yes I watched a YouTube the other night naming all the component parts, disassembly then putting it back together.

Attached photo I dropped the water trap cover down and pulled the drain brass fitting a few times, when did this on Sunday no water droplets came out, tonight with the cover down I see there are a few water droplets inside. Tonight after pulling the drain fitting a few times I noticed the dial has gone back to zero. The locking cap closes down onto a ring, which I think just secures the unit to the mounting bracket. Beneath the ring is a plate with a screw at each corner will undo these to see if I can get into it.

When I put the wall board pipes and fittings together I used high strength threadlock, didn't know about the low strength version.
I have a hand propane flame gun, will have to apply heat to fittings to get the combo off the wall. Use mole grips or something to use as a heat sink on the fittings, pipe. Seem to recall the ball valve and quick connects, have rubber parts that could be damaged by heat. I have a piece of thin guage aluminium sheet that I could use as a heat deflector but will need to buy some tin snips whatever. Going down this route will be a bit of a pig, if can unscrew the top, life will be a whole lot easier.
Don't know what model it is or have the instructions.
Cheers.

 

[carbon]

In the first picture which is the air inlet from the compressor

 

[Dcal]

Before you start heating up the regulator to try and break the thread lock can you not disassemble the regulator in position?
The bit you need to get to is not directly connected to the air ports.

Look at the top of the regulator, (where the adjustment nob is) there is a usually a ring or screws that connects the adjustment section to the main body of the regulator.
Yours looks like the type that has 4 machine screws.
If you remove the screws the top of the regulator should come off and let you see what the problem is.
To increase the outlet pressure all you are doing is compressing the regulating spring.

For these type of fittings I use Screwfix low strength thread seal https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-ptfe-liquid-50g/5321j
It really is low strength but does the job and I've never had a problem taking things apart again.

 

[Pollys13]

I can engage and disengage the locking cap

" They are a simple tool and only have a few parts." Yes I watched a YouTube the other night naming all the component parts, disassembly then putting it back together.

Attached photo I dropped the water trap cover down and pulled the drain brass fitting a few times, when did this on Sunday no water droplets came out, tonight with the cover down I see there are a few water droplets inside. Tonight after pulling the drain fitting a few times I noticed the dial has gone back to zero. The locking cap closes down onto a ring, which I think just secures the unit to the mounting bracket. Beneath the ring is a plate with a screw at each corner will undo these to see if I can get into it.

When I put the wall board pipes and fittings together I used high strength threadlock, didn't know about the low strength version.
I have a hand propane flame gun, will have to apply heat to fittings to get the combo off the wall. Use mole grips or something to use as a heat sink on the fittings, pipe. Seem to recall the ball valve and quick connects, have rubber parts that could be damaged by heat. I have a piece of thin guage aluminium sheet that I could use as a heat deflector but will need to buy some tin snips whatever. Going down this route will be a bit of a pig, if can unscrew the top, life will be a whole lot easier.
Don't know what model it is or have the instructions.
Cheers.

In the first picture which is the air inlet from the compressor

The green ball valve upright handle.

 

[Pollys13]

" Look at the top of the regulator, (where the adjustment nob is) there is a usually a ring or screws that connects the adjustment section to the main body of the regulator.
Yours looks like the type that has 4 machine screws. " Yes thats so, will have a go at removing Wednesday. Thanks for the Screwfix low strength thread seal tip. Wish had known that at the start... live and learn

 

[Pollys13]

I got the pair of screws on the left side undone. The ones on the right were harder I undid them a bit, got several types of Philips, think might have started to round screw head off a bit, then tried small flat screwdriver. I then found lifting the locking cap up I could now rotate the knob both ways. Seems to rotate an awful lot but doesn't stop I thought it should, when maxed out? Anti clock wise rotated it a lot, might be mistaken, felt could be getting loose. I stopped there as if couldn't get those other screws undone and get into the works, would be a pain. Was thinking of penetration oil but don't think that and regulator would mix very well. Any ideas on how to get those screws out if I need to in future?
Cheers

 

[armalites]

Why is people can't stop and ask how something works and just carry on and break something?

Drives me mad.

 

[Dcal]

The adjusting knob has a plastic "socket" to accept the adjuster nut / bolt for the regulating spring.
It sounds like the plastic socket is stripped and giving the issues you describe.
Can you pull the adjusting knob off?
Normally the are a push fit but sometimes they have a screw or circlip.
Can"t see you doing any more harm.p

 

[armalites]

I've got a really nice Norgren/Desoutter filter regulator that can off the wall and broke the plastic knob. Being a major brand I thought I could just order a new knob. Sure enough I could as long as I was prepared to part to almost £100.

 

[Pollys13]

I've got a really nice Norgren/Desoutter filter regulator that can off the wall and broke the plastic knob. Being a major brand I thought I could just order a new knob. Sure enough I could as long as I was prepared to part to almost £100.

Yes I found same sort of thing. I've got a Sedgwick surface planer thicknesser, lovely machine. Not damaged it or anything but if need say, a new cutter block guard, replacement part would cost a fortune. Some of the guys who do fabrication here could just knock one up and spray it.

 

[Pollys13]

The adjusting knob has a plastic "socket" to accept the adjuster nut / bolt for the regulating spring.
It sounds like the plastic socket is stripped and giving the issues you describe.
Can you pull the adjusting knob off?
Normally the are a push fit but sometimes they have a screw or circlip.
Can"t see you doing any more harm.p

Can you pull the adjusting knob off? At first no, with a bit more effort got the locking cap off.
Normally the are a push fit but sometimes they have a screw or circlip
Is that a red circlip?

 

[Dcal]

The square bar adjusts the pressure on the regulating spring. Does it turn with a spanner?
My guess is the red ring is to provide a bit of resistance to the adjusting knob.

 

[carbon]

My guess is the red ring is to provide a bit of resistance to the adjusting knob.

I had a regulator with red ring like that, it was just there to indicate that the knob wasn't locked

 

[Pollys13]

I'll have a go with a spanner Thursday morning.
Cheers.

 

[Pollys13]

Yes I can turn it both ways.

 

[Dcal]

Does that adjust the pressure.

 

[Pollys13]

No it doesn't.

 

[Dcal]

Must be something wrong with the thread the bolt goes into.
That bolt should load the spring that adjust the pressure.

You will need to get in a bit deeper.

If you remove the top ring can you unscrew and remove the mounting bracket to get access to the remaining screws that hold the regulator together?