Welding Band Saw Blade

[rtcosic]

Using my little Lidl bandsaw, I hadn't clamped the workpiece adequately, the blade snatched and snapped.

Can I just weld it back together and grind flat? That seems to be how it was originally made.

 

[E T]

Plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do that. You'll have to make a jig.
I looked into it a while back. Didn't find it worth the hassle.

 

[caprinut]

On older professional bandsaws there was a device where the two ends were brought together under spring pressure a charge was sent through it, worked about 50% of the time.

Bert

 

[rtcosic]

Hm. Maybe not then.

I'll just have to learn not to be so clumsy.

 

[Seadog]

If you've TIG, it's probably doable.

 

[iNf]

Have silver soldered mine a few times, easy enough to do, I made a simple jig out of angle and feather the cut edges of the blade

 

[Robotstar5]

I've seen one of our fitters use the weld and grind method, seemed to work OK, you may as well give it a go before shelling out for a new blade, it will only cost a few minutes.

 

[Shox Dr]

Easy with TIG, you might need to temper it afterwards to stop it cracking

 

[Trevanion]

You can give it a try as there's nothing to lose, but more often than not when a blade goes "pop" they tend to crumple and kink in places as they come to a violent stop, which makes it impossible to work with while trying to cut anything after welding them back together. If you do end up welding it, just make sure to anneal the join with a blowlamp prior to running the blade as welding can cause a hard spot which will make it snap very quickly again.

Alternatively, buy a new "hobby/thin gauge" blade from TuffSaws: https://www.tuffsaws.co.uk

 

[rtcosic]

You can give it a try as there's nothing to lose, but more often than not when a blade goes "pop" they tend to crumple and kink in places as they come to a violent stop, which makes it impossible to work with while trying to cut anything after welding them back together. If you do end up welding it, just make sure to anneal the join with a blowlamp prior to running the blade as welding can cause a hard spot which will make it snap very quickly again.

Alternatively, buy a new "hobby/thin gauge" blade from TuffSaws: https://www.tuffsaws.co.uk

Oddly it's a clean break. I only got them last month from Tuffsaws, so it's still sharp!

 

[Cheesie]

Welded the blade for my femi last week, lasted about another 8 cuts, enough to finish what I was doing.

 

[E T]

My experience with my Chinese horizontal bandsaw, which I like and use a lot, is that by the time a blade breaks there's usually a couple of teeth missing as well on several places along the blade. Welding a broken blade is of no use if there's teeth missing further along the blade.
Good quality blades last fairly long and I always have a couple of spares in stock.

 

[Johnnybravo]

You can Tig them no problem. But you do need to anneal the weld afterwards. The bladewelders fitted to bandsaws have a function to do this. If you dont, they snap on the weld pretty quickly. You can anneal the join with mappgas.

 

[Davidcardiff]

Used the weld back together with 312 filler and pein it with a hammer straight away used to last a good while until we got replacements

 

[outofthefire]

I knew an old boy that used to buy the blade from somewhere in long lengths. He'd cut it to length a bit longer than needed, then grind the ends to taper them put them together and brazed them together. The over lap was about 1/2 to 3/4 he had been doing it for years and there was barely a change in thickness where the join was.

 

[E T]

Used the weld back together with 312 filler and pein it with a hammer straight away used to last a good while until we got replacements

New bandsaw blades are welded autogenous. 312 or 309 would be my choice as filler when TIG welding them, but I have 312 on hand.
312 is expensive filler. If you have to buy that just to try to repair a broken bandsaw blade with uncertain succes you might as well spend the money on some spare good quality blades.

 

[Chippie]

Have silver soldered mine a few times, easy enough to do, I made a simple jig out of angle and feather the cut edges of the blade

Likewise, that’s what I do until the blade becomes too short….

 

[Wallace]

I made a jig with brass sheet to Tig weld mine, once welded the joint needs annealing immediately without being flexed.

 

[DAPPH]

I hope to be at Fizzy's work unit this weekend cutting some wood on his Startrite man eating band saw & having a play on some of his other machinery .

I have got half a dozen band saw blades from 1/4 inch fine to almost 3/4 inch wide rips , hope to have a go on his Startrite bandsaw welding device as it not only has the current setting chart for the blades it also has a tempering timer too. If it works out I'll let you guys know the results .
For my band saw I have three 1/2" bi metallic blades which I use most of the time and three 1/4 bands which are for tight turns in wood . I got fed up of busting a blade and having to either wait for an internet ordered blade or specifically drive a 40 mile round trip to get one hence th stock of spare blades .

 

[RichardM]

I tig weld mine with 309 filler, just clamp nice and straight to a copper bar. If it's not straight after welding heat up and tap the weld down to straighten. Then grind the weld flat. Look for other cracks / kinks before welding.